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Hot Tank
- Thread starter lethal289
- Start date
Sounds like you were or are ready to tear the rear end down to an empty casing? If only because of the rust issue on the outside, I wouldn't do it. As Tad suggested tape things off and blast it or use a right angle grinder with a wire brush fitting.
If though you are planning to tear it down all the way you could have the casing powder coated along with the backing plates. Not cheap, but pretty durable. That's what I did with Shag.
If though you are planning to tear it down all the way you could have the casing powder coated along with the backing plates. Not cheap, but pretty durable. That's what I did with Shag.
Thanks for the replies, i've sandblasted before, and it was a major PIA. I told myself i would do whatever i can to avoid that again. Its two years later now, and just yesterday i found some aggregate in my garage.
Craig, i've found another rear for my car that i've began to work on (read moved it into my garage). Once i get some where with it, ill start a thread as it requires a MAJOR tear down.
Which brings me back to the original question, Does a hot tank do anything for surface rust? If i have to resort to the wire wheel and blasting, i will, i just hope not.
Craig, i've found another rear for my car that i've began to work on (read moved it into my garage). Once i get some where with it, ill start a thread as it requires a MAJOR tear down.
Which brings me back to the original question, Does a hot tank do anything for surface rust? If i have to resort to the wire wheel and blasting, i will, i just hope not.
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
You might check with whatever facility you're interested in taking it to. The term "hot tank" is kinda generic and in this day and age means a bunch of different methods. Years ago a machine shop hot tank was filled with a caustic chemical (some being mild acid). They did remove rust as well as everything else, grease, gunk, ALUMINUM! Since times have changed regarding use of hazardous chemicals there's new less hazardous methods, though not necessarily better! I believe most will NOT remove rust, but you'll need to check.
Well, i just wanted to note that i called just about every machine shop in the area. They all had the same things to say. The ones that will hot tank a rear end range in price from 40 to 75 dollars. However, they all say it will do nothing to the surface rust, EPA regulations have forced the tanks to only treat for grease and dirt/debris. It still might be worth it to get all that old gear lube out of there.
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
apollard
Active Member
I've used the electrolysis method linked above to remove rust from some fairly large parts - just build a tub out of 6 mil plastic and wood, etc to fit. A buddy of mine uses an old kids play pool (about 6' round). It's cheap for the soda, and works quite well, if somewhat slow on larger pieces. And, no sandblasting. I've even used it to clean up cylinder heads - degrease, then drop in the eletrolysis contraption - cooling passages come out looking like fresh casting (note: it's probably easier for heads to just take them to the local shop).
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
I actually tried the electrolysis method with a cast water pump housing and the main tranny housing for my fstbk. I used a battery charger for the power supply. It actually worked quit well!
Here's the water pump housing before:
And after:
I also took some shots of the tranny housing and how I rigged it up (using a large rubbermaid bin and rebar):
Here's the water pump housing before:
And after:
I also took some shots of the tranny housing and how I rigged it up (using a large rubbermaid bin and rebar):
apollard
Active Member
Like ponyman, I used a battery charger. There really isn't enough voltage to give you much of a shock, even if you tried - most you could manage would be a mild tingle.
A battery charger with higher current capability will speed things up, but any 12 charger will do the job. Note that some 'intelligent' chargers will not apply voltage until they see some voltage on the leads - this is to prevent reverse hookup. To use a charger like that, connect a car battery to the part & anode (use jumper cables), then connect the charger. After that, you can disconnect the battery.
The negative goes to the part - I used some 12 ga house wire I had laying around, so yes, copper works fine. I found a larger anode works faster, so I use a large pieces of mild steel sheet (don't use stainless!). It helps to have several anodes in the tank, spaced around the part. Not necessary, but speeds things up. I completely derusted a master cylinder from a boat trailer (very rusty) in about 4 hours using 4 plates as anodes and a 15 amp charger (it never really uses the 15 amps). I have also found making the solution stronger than 1 cup soda in 5 gallons doesn't speed things up. I've also used regular baking soda, but washing (laudry) soda works faster.
The great benefit to this IMO is that it doesn't abrade the surface like blasting - and, you just set it up and walk away.
A battery charger with higher current capability will speed things up, but any 12 charger will do the job. Note that some 'intelligent' chargers will not apply voltage until they see some voltage on the leads - this is to prevent reverse hookup. To use a charger like that, connect a car battery to the part & anode (use jumper cables), then connect the charger. After that, you can disconnect the battery.
The negative goes to the part - I used some 12 ga house wire I had laying around, so yes, copper works fine. I found a larger anode works faster, so I use a large pieces of mild steel sheet (don't use stainless!). It helps to have several anodes in the tank, spaced around the part. Not necessary, but speeds things up. I completely derusted a master cylinder from a boat trailer (very rusty) in about 4 hours using 4 plates as anodes and a 15 amp charger (it never really uses the 15 amps). I have also found making the solution stronger than 1 cup soda in 5 gallons doesn't speed things up. I've also used regular baking soda, but washing (laudry) soda works faster.
The great benefit to this IMO is that it doesn't abrade the surface like blasting - and, you just set it up and walk away.
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
On mine I used the rebar as the anodes, though plate works better due to more surface area. The vertical bars you see around the perimeter of the bin were for that. They were then wired together in series. The rod supporting the case was not only to hold it (you don't want your part touching the anodes or the bottom", but is how I connected the charger to the part, electrically speaking. I used regular safety wire, because that's what I had on hand. Copper wire is perfectly fine. Keep in mind the anodes need to "see" the surface that's being derusted. In other words the surface you want to remove rust from needs to face you anode. Again, that's why my bars are around the entire perimeter, so more surfaces were exposed at the same time. BTW, I used the Arm & Hammer washing soda and it worked well. It can be a little difficult to find. Around here Publix is the only store that carries it. You also need to make sure the area is ventilated. The process gives off low amounts of hydrogen gas. Remember the Hindenburg!