how do you define?

[RustyRed]

I've been checking out a '77 Firebird with T-tops thinking it may / may not be a good deal...

The seller described the paint as "driver quality". Ok...to me that means maybe the paint is a little faded with a ding or scratch here and there.

Apparently, "driver quality" can also be defined as "you need to replace a quarter panel..." see attached picture for what I'm talking about...

 

[AzPete]

Not driver quality in my book....that looks more like "rebuildable"..... To me, a driver quality would be able to be sanded down, a few door dings fixed, and new paint shot without any replacement body work.

 

[Gigantopithecus]

It does not count as driver quality if chunks of the car are falling off while it's going down the road.

 

[RustyRed]

Not driver quality in my book....that looks more like "rebuildable"..... To me, a driver quality would be able to be sanded down, a few door dings fixed, and new paint shot without any replacement body work.

Thank you for the confirmation. I always defined driver quality like you and not as through body rust.

However, in discussions the guy has been saying it's driver quality, a little faded but still turns heads, etc.

Probably turns heads due to the rust falling off as you go down the road.

Hummm...if I could buy it cheap and add a little :nick maybe I could find me a sucker overseas :vic

 

[Sluggo]

They don't make trunk drop offs to fit that car either.

If it has Hurst T-tops, run like hell.

 

[RustyRed]

I generally decided to run like hell when I saw the pictures.

My thinking is when there is rust you can see like that it means there is a lot more hiding that you can't see.

I know where I can find a '79 Trans Am with T-tops locally that is in really nice driver shape that would end up being cheaper by the time I got done fixing everything the Firebird in the picture looks like it will need.

Just pisses me off that people can't just be honest and tell you the straight story up front. Instead they try to screw you and waste your time / money to figure out they are trying to pass off a rust bucket piece of crap as something that isn't a piece of crap.

 

[stangg]

I think you should get it... afterall it fits your screen name perfectly... just kidding.. the problem with a term like "driver quality" is that to some one selling it might simply mean the car runs and drives. Everyone's definition will vary, detailed pictures typically don't lie. I used to get a kick reading some ebay auctions that went on and on describing the legend of a particular model and barely describing the rust bucket they were selling.

My first real car was a '76 Trans Am, 400, Super T10 4 speed. Sold it after 3 years to friend. Rust bubbles were starting to appear, and the sharp corners on the roof near the door glass opening where starting to split. He had it appraised and was told it was worth more because it was the last year of the single headlights. I had a lot of fun in that car. Might try to get another some day... I would stay away from T tops especially if you plan on building any sort of power. If you do get T tops, at least install subframe connectors.

 

[RustyRed]

I had an '80 years ago in high school...nothing but good memories with that car until I ran it up on a construction barracade and darn near flipped it.

I hear you re: the T-tops. I've looked at a couple of hard tops and have figured t-tops only really mean more rust issues.

Not planning on building a drag car if I ever find the right one. I figure the bone stock late 70's model cars with the 400 have plenty of balls already. I am avoiding the 4.9 turbo models though...