Daves69Coupe
Member
How much black epoxy primer would I need to paint my entire car?
-
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
How much epoxy primer?
- Thread starter Daves69Coupe
- Start date
Just exterior panels or inside and underneath too? Epoxy is great stuff for the undercarriage as it is super durable (protective). Even if you're putting on some other coating on top.
Daves69Coupe
Member
just the exterior of the car, the undercarriage I did with undercoating
I bought a gallon, and did the interior, underside, and trunk all in one color with probably 1/2 gallon left over. Another color for the engine compartment.
Buy a gallon and you'll be sure to have enough. That one gallon must be mixed, so you'll really have about 1.5 gallons to paint with.
And the neat thing with epoxy primer: if you run out, you have 7 days to shoot another coat before resorting to scuffing if you use DPxxLF.
Buy a gallon and you'll be sure to have enough. That one gallon must be mixed, so you'll really have about 1.5 gallons to paint with.
And the neat thing with epoxy primer: if you run out, you have 7 days to shoot another coat before resorting to scuffing if you use DPxxLF.
buckeyedemon
Member
get a gallon. i'm assuming you'll spray two coats.
mustangstofear
Active Member
Are you just wanting to cover the outside If you are a gal might get you buy. If you have bodywork to block sand you will need a lot more. I don't know of any direct to metal primers that I would respray the next day without sanding the primer before hand. Rich.
"mustangstofear" said:
You might be right, and maybe I confused a top coat with a second coat of primer.
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
"Midlife" said:
the tech sheet with my SPI epoxy says you have seven days to recoat or topcoat. after 7 days, you should sand , recoat then paint. that said, when i use DP74LF for a sealer (reduced) i always let it set overnight & scuff with a gray scotchbrite pad just to be safe. it always better to be safe & sand than to chance it & ruin an expensive paintjob.
to the OP, use 2 wet coats for max corrosion protection.
Yeah, that corresponds to what I remember. Using DPxxLF as a sealer has much different cure properties than straight primer, so I agree with your scuff the next day.
buckeyedemon
Member
why would you scuff epoxy the next day when the tech sheet claims 7 days before scuffing is required? i would understand if you were around day 4 and maybe more that you would scuff. DP takes a long time to really cure even mixed as a sealer. if a manufacturer claims 7 days, i would expect they have plenty of margin.
i always mix it as a sealer as it seems to spray better.
i always mix it as a sealer as it seems to spray better.
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
tech sheets are just general guidelines. with some products, you can vary the temp & humidity a few degrees & you are dealing with a whole different animal. with the DP series of epoxy mixed as a sealer, the tech sheets say you can shoot topcoat in a few hours without scuffing, but doing it this way will kill the gloss on a job in my area with the temps & humidity. in my book it's easier to let it set & scuff it than to take a chance on having to redo the job because of adhesion issues. remember the cars in the late 80's & 90's that had the paint peeling off in sheets? that was due to the manufacturers using a "non sanding" sealer. if something delayed the line or the stuff cured too quick, the paint wouldn't stick to it.
buckeyedemon
Member
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
where does the tech sheet state this? i will in many times wait a day after spraying the dp before applying my fill primer (i haven't been scuffing and my garage never sees anything above 90F) (maybe you are referring to actual color coats only?). i certainly don't want to be doing something the wrong way.
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=ebd75e7f-7489-4334-a387-73f8653e2a34
Daves69Coupe
Member
looks like ill be buying a gallon of primer. Thanks for you help guys
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
"buckeyedemon" said:
that tech sheet you listed doesn't have any info on mixing or using as a sealer, but the times i listed were minimum times & are similar to whats listed on the bottom of page two. you are correct, i was referring to actual color coats which can be a bit more tedious as far as adhesion goes compared to fill primer.you shouldn't have any problem doing it the way you are in your area. cincy doesn't have near the heat & humidity that i deal with here (i know, i used to live there). after doing this stuff for almost 30 yrs & being lucky enough to know others who have painted way longer, i trust when they recommend doing something due to real world experience vs. some technician in a lab with perfect conditions.
on another note, i've been very impressed with the work you have done on that car. i've been watching since the beginning over at 69stang & even posted a link to that build thread here before you joined. hope to see it in person when its done.
buckeyedemon
Member
thanks for the compliments. do you know of a guy in the Galatin area named Paul who has his own shop?
"mustangstofear" said:
Rich, do you use epoxy primer for blocking? I've always understood tha epoxy primers are to seal up metal or seal up any completed body work... basically avoid blocking epoxy. Blocking would be done on a few coats of 2K urethane high build primer that is sprayed over the epoxy and/or other filler work. This is the way I've done it and only used about 1/2 gallon of sprayable epoxy on the base. For the urethane primer more like a gallon of that during the whole body work process.
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
"buckeyedemon" said:
name sounds very familiar. i would probably know him if i saw him (i'm really bad with names) i did auto glass for almost 19 yrs, so have been in just about all the shops around at some time or another over the years & have met lots of people.