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How much power can a 4.6 NA 32 valve mod engine make?

A

Anonymous

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I am needing about 400 ft/lbs at the rear wheels to be where I need to be. How much can a mod 4.6 32 valve make without boost or N20. Keeping it NA would help the pocketbook. The engine I have is from a Lincoln Mark 8 and has the aluminum block.
 
Given the cost to get that kind of power NA I think you may find boost a cheaper, simpler way to get there. Cams and such on those motors are not cheap. A basic centrifugal at pump gas boost levels would do it easily. Hell, you can find a stock Terminator screw for next nothing. The intake is a bit harder but you can find 'em.
 
Hot Rod magazine got 370.4 HP and 345.4 LB-FT with a NA 2V using CNC ported heads and cams with a carb and MSD ignition on a junkyard 97 4.6. They spent a little over $4,000 including buying the engine and heads, cams, etc. and then porting the PI heads. (the first test was putting stock PI heads on it from a 99 GT). I don't know what the 4V heads are worth but you should get close...
here's the link to the article online
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... ewall.html
 
they put Trick Flow heads & cams on it and got 453 HP/390 LB FT and it's still just a NA 2V!
here is that article
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... ewall.html

hrdp_1006_17_o+modular_ford_engine+hooked_up_to_the_dyno.jpg
 
All those Hot Rod numbers are on a dyno at the flywheel. Non-forged bottom-end is good to about 500 H.P. but that is getting close. Wind it up and bets are off.

Go boost at 8-9 lbs and you'll be happy. I was. Cheaper and more reliable too.
 
agreed but that still not too bad. Boost is the way to go however. They say in the last article 14psi will double you HP and the 1993–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII, is rated at 280 hp and 285 lb ft. so boost should get him there easy
 
the 2003–2004 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra, Iron block, Supercharged, is rated at 390 hp and 390 lb ft. Almost the 400 target he is looking for stock...
 
Thanks for the inputs. One big issue (as always) is the ecm to run the thing. The tranny I have is setup for the Lincoln M8 and the ecm is an EEC-IV. No PATS to deal with. My thoughts is to add a Tweecer piggyback to the system and plum in a small turbo. I don't really want to open up the bottom end unless absolutely necessary, rods, pistons and the crank would run over 2k. I'm thinking it will stay together if I keep it under 450 FWHP and that should do the job. I know in the Big Lincoln this engine came out of the car would absolutely roast the tires off. The Mustang should be over 1000lbs lighter than the Lincoln (like 25%).
 
"67 evil eleanor" said:
Thanks for the inputs. One big issue (as always) is the ecm to run the thing. The tranny I have is setup for the Lincoln M8 and the ecm is an EEC-IV. No PATS to deal with. My thoughts is to add a Tweecer piggyback to the system and plum in a small turbo. I don't really want to open up the bottom end unless absolutely necessary, rods, pistons and the crank would run over 2k. I'm thinking it will stay together if I keep it under 450 FWHP and that should do the job. I know in the Big Lincoln this engine came out of the car would absolutely roast the tires off. The Mustang should be over 1000lbs lighter than the Lincoln (like 25%).
Click to expand...
I had a 2V in my 02 that I put a Kenne Bell 1.7L screw on and ran at only 9 lbs boost. It had 400+ at the wheels. Stock bottom end and I beat the snot out of it every single day. That engine can handle the level boost you are talking no problem. Just keep it under 6k. I shifted at 5 on pretty much every shift! Boost is too much fun not to.
 
I figure about 8 lbs with a good tune would do the job. Tarafied, I read the hotrod article (a friend brought it over) and it's amazing the stock rods and pistons held up. That makes me wonder about all the hype you hear about forged rods being a must. All the articles are about using 2 valve engines. Almost makes me wish I had went with a 2 valve. I guess initially two years ago when I started planning this project I was thinking boost. I know the 4 valve mod engines will get pretty darn mean and respond very well to it. Maybe it's best just to buy the bottom end and stick with the original plan. I've looked for info on how just a tune and bolt on parts would improve the power on the 4 valve but it seems the info is scarce.
 
Just a bit of difference (wow). No wonder these engines like boost.
 
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