• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

HV or standard volume oil pump?

SAC69

SAC69

Active Member
Donator
I'm replacing the stock oil pan with a 7 qt Canton unit soon and will replace the original oil pump at the same time. The engine is still stock internally (112k miles) and won't be rebuilt for approx 2 years.

Pro or con for a HV oil pump (Melling)?

Thanks.
 
I would say standard.....it still is a stock engine and two more years will be good for another replace.....
 
Definitely Std... More is not always better. A HV pump can destroy an engine if the engine is not setup for it. Without proper clearances to accept the extra volume, they get very hard to drive and can quickly destroy your cam or distributor gear, or both, sending lots or wonderful metal particles into your engine...
 
i agree, with a stock motor with miles on it, the stock pump will be suffficient.

not to steal the thread, but does anyone run a high pressure pump vs. high volume? this would be on a freshly rebuilt motor. had an old timer years ago say to run a HP vs HV pump. i ran one on the 289 i built 20 yrs ago & loved it. had no issues as long as i owned the car.
 
I've been running a HV Melling pump since first fire back in 02. Haven't had an oiling problem yet.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
I've been running a HV Melling pump since first fire back in 02. Haven't had an oiling problem yet when it runs.
Click to expand...

...just had to......
 
"SAC69" said:
I'm replacing the stock oil pan with a 7 qt Canton unit soon and will replace the original oil pump at the same time. The engine is still stock internally (112k miles) and won't be rebuilt for approx 2 years.

Pro or con for a HV oil pump (Melling)?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

SAC69,

Do you currently have a gauge on your motor?? What pressures are you currently seeing??? Does the pressure drop considerably at an idle?? If so then a HV pump will act as a band aid until you rebuild the motor as your clearances have opened up due to wear... regardless of what pump you use I would reccomend throwing away the stock pump driveshaft and install a hardened one such as that sold by ARP... in addition don't be suprised when you take off your pan and see a lot of hard black pieces... those are just your hardened valve seals which have cracked and found their way to the oil pan... clean them out and move on or else you will get the while I'm there syndrome and end up rebuilding the motor 2 years early...
 
"dm289" said:
SAC69,

Do you currently have a gauge on your motor?? What pressures are you currently seeing??? Does the pressure drop considerably at an idle?? If so then a HV pump will act as a band aid until you rebuild the motor as your clearances have opened up due to wear... regardless of what pump you use I would reccomend throwing away the stock pump driveshaft and install a hardened one such as that sold by ARP... in addition don't be suprised when you take off your pan and see a lot of hard black pieces... those are just your hardened valve seals which have cracked and found their way to the oil pan... clean them out and move on or else you will get the while I'm there syndrome and end up rebuilding the motor 2 years early...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, it's still the stock sweep gauge which reads slightly over 1/2 way when cold and 1/3 + when hot. I've found some of the seal pieces before in the heads by the springs and am trying to avoid the while-I'm-at-its. I plan to buy a ARP oil driveshaft.
 
A high volume oil pump is what put my car up on blocks for 7 years before I got it.

The PO used a high volume pump, a hardened shaft and ran heavy oil. Twisted the roll pin out of the dizzy gear.

In your application I would use the standard pump. Your oil pressure readings sound quite good for a car with that many miles. Melling is the way to go.
 
seems like the choice may depend on a couple factors. some may include, engine family (i.e. cleveland or windsor), bearing clearances setup up by the machine shop (or even a heavily worn engine), lifter type, idle RPM.

i struggle to believe a HV would destroy a motor. i thought they had bypass valves. i'm certainly no expert in this area though.

in any event, i went with a standard volume in mine.
 
"buckeyedemon" said:
seems like the choice may depend on a couple factors. some may include, engine family (i.e. cleveland or windsor), bearing clearances setup up by the machine shop (or even a heavily worn engine), lifter type, idle RPM.[nb]Agreed[/nb]

i struggle to believe a HV would destroy a motor. i thought they had bypass valves. i'm certainly no expert in this area though.[nb]Most of the failures I have read/heard of were in windsors and mostly limited to distributor gear/roll pin failure[/nb]
Click to expand...
 
It seems to make sense: pushing more volume of an incompressible fluid through tight clearances will affect the pusher, in this case the pressure on the distributor & roll pin.

Thanks for the tips.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top