The inducer motor on my furnace is making a louder than usual noise on start-up. I called a furnace guy I have used in the past and he said he was sure that was the problem from what I told him, he called back and asked if I was sitting down, he said the motor was $453. plus around $100 for service call and install. I said I might just hope for the best and put in a new furnace this spring (it still works but bearing noise at startup)Then I looked online and I can buy the same motor-(brand for brand and part # for $195.95. Now I realize there is a need for markup in business but this seems a bit steep---he claims that 453 was his supplier cost to him. I hate to do it but I ordered the online one (no shipping either) and I will put it in myself-(simple 4 screws-2 wires) --I normally would not mess with it myself but this is a $350 difference. :shrug
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I was planning on going with a local repairman--but
- Thread starter Flysure1
- Start date
uh......maybe this is a calling for you to go into the heating and cooling business?
Larry G
Member
Just as long as you know that is the problem, go for it. Saving that kind of money is always good. :yah
Depending on age you are probably safe in blaming the motor but I would look into the starting side of things too. Could be as minor as a CAP or contactor too. Grainger is your friend ($$$) for all things HVAC.
I took off the furnace cover and put my hand on the motor/blower housing, when it started and shut off I could feel vibration in the whole unit. Hope that is the problem.--the furnace is a Heil dc 90--ultra high eff.--19 or 20 years old. 100,000 btu I think--my house is 2 story 1900 sq foot. It is well insulated and had all the windows and doors replaced 19 years ago--if I go to 95% efficient do I need 100,000 btu unit?--what about air unit size?"Horseplay" said:
I am not an HVAC guy by trade but I have spent a LONG time repairing all things electrical, like furnaces for example. You can find plenty of calculators on line to help size things but it can get rather complicated. If the current unit has performed well in terms of maintaining temps, etc. I would be confident in assuming that it was properly sized to begin with. Efficiencies and BTU requirements are not the same thing. Going to a 95% would be more cost effective per unit of energy used but you would still need the same size BTU output."Flysure1" said:
Gigantopithecus
Well-Known Member
I've replaced two of those motors. Each one cost a little over $100 and 20 minutes with of my time. Ordered the parts off Amazon. $450 is ridiculous.
Mach1Rider
Active Member
Our 3 year old fridge wasn't staying cool, Called the local repair guy and he looked at it.
After 5 min of watching it, He says that the control board needs replacing because its not going into defrost mode.
Cost for the board is 450.00 and he will put his 45.00 service call towards the labor to install it.
Did some online research and ordered a new control board for it.
Cost for new board shipped to my door 122.73
Time to put it in 10 minutes.
After 5 min of watching it, He says that the control board needs replacing because its not going into defrost mode.
Cost for the board is 450.00 and he will put his 45.00 service call towards the labor to install it.
Did some online research and ordered a new control board for it.
Cost for new board shipped to my door 122.73
Time to put it in 10 minutes.
You can get one opened rather easily. If you do any electrical, pneumatic or mechanical work, etc. you should set one up. They have damn near anything you could ever want. Prices are not always the best but are usually good but most importantly they have it in stock 99% of the time."Flysure1" said:
Why anyone would call a repair guy these days is beyond me. Even an idiot can diagnose a problem with the aide of the internet and probably even find step by step directions to perform the repair. You can also find ANY part for purchase. All those scary appliances and such are in most cases much simpler to fix than say tuning an old mustang!"Mach1Rider" said:
Mach1Rider
Active Member
Well this idiot did all of the self tests that the research said to do.
Not one thing showed on display as a fault. So the wife said call.
Seems the repair guy know the electronics are usually the fault so replace it.
So much for having all these cool high tech gadgets that is supposed to make life simpler but don't make it 5 years without breaking down.
I would have liked to buy a simple one like the 20+ year old one in my shop that still works fine, But they aren't made anymore.
Not one thing showed on display as a fault. So the wife said call.
Seems the repair guy know the electronics are usually the fault so replace it.
So much for having all these cool high tech gadgets that is supposed to make life simpler but don't make it 5 years without breaking down.
I would have liked to buy a simple one like the 20+ year old one in my shop that still works fine, But they aren't made anymore.
I hope you didn't take the use of the word idiot as an insult. I was just saying that you don't need to "know" this stuff to fix it anymore."Mach1Rider" said:
Most repair guys/services do not fix or even test "board level" stuff. They simply swap it out. All an appliance is are a combination of parts, right? A motor here. A heater there. A relay or a thermo-couple. Not much is "fixable" in that sense. Just pop in a new one. If you can change a spark plug you can probably fix an appliance.
Mach1Rider
Active Member
:beer...Nope, Just trying to appease the wife.
She's the one that had the wack attack at the price of fixing it.
I just smiled and said I ordered a new board and it will be here in 2 days.
She's the one that had the wack attack at the price of fixing it.
I just smiled and said I ordered a new board and it will be here in 2 days.