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Installing new pushrods, cam degree!

R

rusty1970

Member
Never done this before, Is a cam degree wheel a must to install new pushrods? My engine is on the stand and fresh from the shop. Like I said never done any of this before, so TIPS AND TRICKS are helpful! Also I am thinking of getting some guys together at my place to work on my car, a all hands on deck approach! :wtf
 
Are you just installing new rods? Did you change anything in the valve train? Do you have adjustable push rod checkers?

Main objective is the get the height correct so the valve tip pattern is centered and tight. Don't need a degree wheel for that.
 
Everything is new, fresh clean block! New aluminum heads, new roller rockers,nw intake, valves, camshaft! You name it, its new! Never ran, fresh build for my Mach 1!
 
I'd degree it then just to make sure the cam is what it's supposed to be. On one of my valve train meltdowns, I replaced the cam with a new but same cam. When I degree'd it, found that it had been ground wrong. Would have never known that until starting had I not put the degree wheel on it.

Having a degree wheel and dial indicators to measure lift is a must if you're building your own engines.
 
So it sounds like I need to start looking for my degree wheel & dials huh...

You've seen my garage lately. I can't find sh!t.
 
this could open a can of worms but if you are assembling an engine with a variety of aftermarket components, there are a LOT of things that you need to check. One of the most important might be valve to piston clearance. Unless you bought a "matched" kit or something, pistons, valve springs, roller rockers, the valves themselves, combustion chambers, etc. etc. all can lead to problems if not right. For example a 1.7 ratio rocker will have more lift than a 1.6 and change the duration of the cam. If you have flat top pistons without valve reliefs you could bend a valve.
Anyway, hope this helps, good luck!
 
His short block has already been assembled by some engine builder here in Olathe. I don't know who they are though, or their reputation.
 
IMHO, you ALWAYS check valve to piston clearance. Doesn't matter what components or brands being used. Same as you ALWAYS degree the cam. Arguments for doing both are many. I can't think of any against.
 
"70_Fastback" said:
His short block has already been assembled by some engine builder here in Olathe. I don't know who they are though, or their reputation.
Click to expand...
from his post I got the impression this was his first major engine build, just wanted to make sure he had all the bases covered! Nothing worse than sinking a ton of money in an engine and then trashing it....right!?! :roll
 
"Horseplay" said:
IMHO, you ALWAYS check valve to piston clearance. Doesn't matter what components or brands being used. Same as you ALWAYS degree the cam. Arguments for doing both are many. I can't think of any against.
Click to expand...
agreed, especially if someone else put it together. I don't trust anybody! I like to see for myself. Not that I never screwed anything up before...
 
If you don't check the clearances (and everything else), you're risking a ton of money.


Checking my piston-valve clearance

Valveclearance.jpg
 
I'm a virgin! Last time I had a motor built I dropped it off and picked it up when it was done. But, I am now married and a house payment! So, I am going to build this car myself, and with the help of others! As far as I know the engine shop bored the engine .030. Cam,timing chain, valves,lifters where all oredered by the shop as a kit. I bought the new intake, and roller rockers aswell as getting the pushrods! After I picked up the block and heads form the shop. Also my heads are new aluminum windsor JR.
 
Well just make sure you do the basics. Clean threads, check clearances, port match manifolds/headers, degree cam, etc.
 
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