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Installing Subframe Connectors

67TXStang

Member
I need to replace the floorpans in my Mustang but wanted to start with the subframe connectors. I figured it would help hold things in place as I'm planning on replacing the entire floorpan.

I purchased the Tinman subframe connectors which install into the front frame rails. I've got the driver side in place and tacked in the back of the connector. I don't have the car on jacks so it is very hard to do any kind of welding. Any ideas on if it would be ok to put the car up on jack stands for this part. I don't want to weld them in wrong or something.

I've four jack stands. If this is a good idea, maybe someone could tell me the best place to put them.
 
I would place 2 on each side of your rockers, then 2 at the rear of your front frame rail and one dead center of the radiator support. Rich.
 
Thanks for the response. I'm thinking I could go buy a few bottle jacks from Harbor Freight. I'm intimidated by this project a little so I have a couple of other questions.

Would I set the bottle jack at the front of the rocker the same height as the back?
Should I just support the body at these points or can I lift the entire car off the ground?
Would these same points work to leave the car in the air why I replaced the entire floorpan?

Thanks again.
 
We use bottle jacks also they work great, just make sure they don't bleed off. You can support the body where I stated before. Rich.
 
Why not use jack stands at all four wheel locations? Other locations would introduce room for error. Just make sure the body is not resting elsewhere that wouldn't mimic how it is with all 4 wheels on the ground. Otherwise, welding the connectors and then lowering the car to the ground would have unwanted stress already built into the connectors (pre-stressed, essentially). I'm sure Rich has done plenty, but thought I would throw this info out there in case its misunderstood.
 
I question if it's not better to wait and install the SFC's only after the car is fully loaded in it's natural position and stance.
 
"buening" said:
Why not use jack stands at all four wheel locations?

Just from my current experience, the lack of precise adjustment with standard jack stands plus variations in the floor make it impossible for me to support my car just perfectly at each jack stand. My shell is actually only resting on 3 of the 4 underneath it. It appears to be sitting on the 4th one, but if I grab it, I can actually pull it out. It's been sitting like this for about a year and hasn't dropped yet. I've replaced all the inner aprons, shock towers, a partial rear frame rail, 1 rear torque box cover, 1 front torque box, removed the entire floor, removed the trunk floor pieces and the rear crossmember.

I think I'm real lucky! I wish I had some type of threaded jackstand that can be adjusted much more accurately. I don't trust hydraulic stands to sit as long as it is taking me to work on my car. :ecit
 
Mike, I've used steel plates of varying thicknesses to adjust my jack stands. When I put in my T56 and mocked up my adjustable motor mounts, I needed the car to be perfectly level from side to side and front to rear. Using these steel plates on the concrete acting as shims allowed me to obtain this.
 
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