I installed power windows in my 67 vert. Since we have hit triple digit temps in Dallas, the windows stop working after the car has been in the sun for a while. THey start working again once I am in the shade, or once I am moving. The "electric life" kit that I used for the windows indicated that the motors had a thermal limit switch that senses overheating of the motors and shuts off if the track became bound up or if the window hit an object on the way up. Since we have hit triple digit temps, the windows stop working after the car has been in the sun for a while. THey start working again once I am in the shade. I checked all of the wiring with my multimeter and there are no breaks or shorts that I see. Is it possible that this thermal limit is low enough that sunlight-induced temperatures in my door could trip the sensor? I have a question in to the electric life techs, but no answer yet
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is this even possible?
- Thread starter ko67
- Start date
apollard
Active Member
Yes. I've had self-resetting circuit breakers (which are thermally activated) trip under the hood of a black car when the temps go high.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
I will agree. It is not just the air temp. but how hot does it get inside the door and is there any insulation between the door skin and the motor.
sigtauenus
Active Member
I thought they have done thermal studies and the interior of a vehicle generally stabilizes at about 50* above outside temp regardless of color, but darker colors allow the heat to reach that temperature faster. Surface temperature of the paint will vary by just as much (roughly 50*), but the internal temperature will reach a steady state independent of color. Also, interior surfaces in direct sunlight may also have different temperatures based on color. So a black vinyl seat will have a higher temp than the air temp inside the car.
If you are looking at 100* there in Dallas, you are probably looking at 150* inside the door. Although you would think a well designed part with a thermal switch would have that factor included in the design.
If you are looking at 100* there in Dallas, you are probably looking at 150* inside the door. Although you would think a well designed part with a thermal switch would have that factor included in the design.
Assume they both work off the same fused power source? Both quit at the same time and come back on at the same time? Some kits include an external thermal breaker that cuts power to them under load.
I also have the Electric-Llife units in my Cuda. Have never seen that happen but have spent little time in the sun for extended amounts of time. I also have lined the door skin with Dynomat but unsure if the reduced radiant heat inside will make any difference.
Doors feel nice and solid though opening and closing. I drove my Cuda yesterday and windows were plenty fast up and down. Havent counted out the EL units for my Mustang.....yet
I also have the Electric-Llife units in my Cuda. Have never seen that happen but have spent little time in the sun for extended amounts of time. I also have lined the door skin with Dynomat but unsure if the reduced radiant heat inside will make any difference.
Doors feel nice and solid though opening and closing. I drove my Cuda yesterday and windows were plenty fast up and down. Havent counted out the EL units for my Mustang.....yet