I'm going to dive into the exhaust/headers change over tomorrow morning. I finally got my mig welding tank filled. The last time I got gas it was $16...now it's about $35. My how things go up in 15 years...lol. I got shorty cermaic coated headers because I have an aod tranny and it is hard to fit anything with that darn thing. I'm going to do like some one else did on here and run it out just in front of the rear tires. My old exhaust is leaking and I have welded it up so many times because it keeps dragging the old glass packs off going over really high speed bumps or driveways that have a big dip. I am getting ready to do the efi swap also, so I need to be sure the headers fit ok before drilling for the O2 sensors. My question is: how do you drill through the ceramic coating? I am wondering if a special bit is needed. I have some step bits I used a long time ago to install the bungs for O2 sensors. I tried the efi before (couldn't get it to work). I had the car down for 6 or 7 months when I went through the '90 engine and aod to put in the '66. I forgot (it had been so long) that I had a kill switch under the dash and that is why it wouldn't work when I started and started it. I got disgusted and snatched it off and put my professional products shiny intake/edelbrock on to try out the new engine/tranny. That's how it has run the last 8 or 9 years. I got the clamps that are like a sleeve to fit over the ends and can be removed, if I have to do any work where the pipes have to come off. I'm wondering if I need to tack the pipes together before using the sleeve clamps? Also got the dynomax turbo mufflers that have the valve inside. 2 1/2 all the way. I'm gonna get 'er done...I hope. :roul
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keeping my fingers crossed!
- Thread starter gwstang
- Start date
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
$35 for gas (I'm assuming 75/25), what size bottle are you using? I'd LOVE to pay $35. I my bottle is a 90 and it's up to almost $60 around here to fill it now.
I welded the 02 sensor bungs to the exhaust pipe just like the factory did with the fox 5.0 Mustangs. The bungs are welded to the H pipe a few inches down from the header joint.
BTW, If you don't already have the bungs, you can use an anti-foulers. Cut the male end off and weld the female section to the pipe...
BTW, If you don't already have the bungs, you can use an anti-foulers. Cut the male end off and weld the female section to the pipe...
SOB...they could have added a few inches between shock towers on the '66. I look like I've been in a fight with a bobcat...lol. After about an hour of fooling with one side, I decided it would be easier if I pulled a motor mount bolt and just jacked up that side. That helped a lot. I then got pissed with the stupid gasket they sent with the headers...cheap crap and did not have the hook on the end to just slide it in after getting the end bolts started. I stopped and went to the parts store and got the better gaskets with the hook. That made it much easier to do. One side is on and I should be able to get the other quicker tomorrow. I had to stop and take care of some other stuff today, so I'll finish tomorrow. I had one fubar. I had the fronts on the ramps and slid the jack under the pumpkin to raise the rear so my ancient ass could get under there easier to slide the headers up from underneath/remove old pipes etc. Well I always shake the car to make sure the jack has it well and went to get the jack stands and the damn jack slid out from under the edge of the pumpkin. Just damn. Being raised the jack then proceeded to fubar the fitting that comes off the fuel sender and also crimped the tank above that. Double damn at that point. I had fuel running out of the sending unit so I had to quickly get a bucket under there (jack it back up again) and catch about two buckets of gas. I'll order a new sender and gasket and pray that fixes it. The tank was new about 8 years ago so I'm really mad at myself on that. Have to be sure the dang jack is further under the pumpkin next time. As many times over the years as I have jacked it up, you would think I know better. :rant
Forgot to add that in doing the drivers side I had to trim the corner off the bracket that the tv cable bracket will slide in and bolt down on the aod (using Lokar stuff right now so I didn't need that point for running the aod the last few years). I left plenty for the new bracket to hook on (when I add the efi). I figured that would be the hardest side because of the aod stuff for hooking up efi things would be on. Maybe the passenger will be easier tomorrow. They do have about an 8" pipe that bolts to the header flange (the 3 bolt piece with a gasket) and then exhaust pipes/muffler go to that so it should be easy to add the bungs for the O2 sensors there.
These are the headers I am using.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8433-1
Mufflers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17956
clamps
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33226
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8433-1
Mufflers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17956
clamps
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33226
Jonk67
Well-Known Member
Let me know how the VT mufflers sound, I've go them also and the same clamps but haven't even started the motor for break in yet. I went back to stock exh. logs until I can afford LT AOD fit headers. I bent up a used pair of MAC headers numerous times until I gave up that I could 'make' them fit with AOD & PS...
Jon
Jon
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
"gwstang" said:
Now I'm REALLY jealous! A 90 only stands a little above waist high. Sounds like you have about a 120!
"Jonk67" said:
The clamps did not fit right, they are a lap joint and one side is bigger than the other. I had to order the butt joint clamps yesterday so I won't be finishing this until I am off again in a week. I'll let you know how it sounds when I do finish up. I'm still trying to get the new fuel sender to seal up. The old one got bent to crap when the jack slipped off the pumpkin.
Jon,
I did get the other side on with no clearance issues. I will have to move the return efi line over about 4" the next time I am off. Also will get the mufflers/side pipes on and then make you a sound recording to hear. I keep running out of time among the other things I have been working on. It was much easier to take the motor mount bolt out on the side I was working on and just jack the motor up about 4". I don't know if these headers will work with the power steering or not? The only issue I had with the AOD, was on the drivers side. I had to trim the boss on the side of the engine where the tv cable bracket would bolt to. Still plenty left for the bracket to go when I am ready to go with efi.
I did get the other side on with no clearance issues. I will have to move the return efi line over about 4" the next time I am off. Also will get the mufflers/side pipes on and then make you a sound recording to hear. I keep running out of time among the other things I have been working on. It was much easier to take the motor mount bolt out on the side I was working on and just jack the motor up about 4". I don't know if these headers will work with the power steering or not? The only issue I had with the AOD, was on the drivers side. I had to trim the boss on the side of the engine where the tv cable bracket would bolt to. Still plenty left for the bracket to go when I am ready to go with efi.