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Mini starters
- Thread starter Kats66Pny
- Start date
I can't think of any cons. They smaller to help reduce exhaust clearance issues which some encounter. I use one on Shag. The wiring from the solenoid is slightly different from a normal starter, butt nothing for one to get their panties all bunched up about.
Fast68back
Guest
I run one as well. Its about a third the weight of the stock starter. Picked mine up at pep boys, lifetime warranty is a few bucks more, but worth it. Turns the motor over much faster.
I'm using one bought off Ebay several years ago from DB Electric, no issues.
The guy who towed Gertrude home, talked to a few mechanic friends about what was going on with my car and they all pretty much said the same thing. It sounds like the starter might have burned up and to remove it and have it tested to see if it's still good or not, and go ahead and replace the cable going from it to the solenoid. It was also recommended to change from a stock starter to a mini and/or possibly change to shorty headers which I am not messing with it. I like my long headers and I be damned if I try to remove them again when I just got exhaust welded back on. lol
The mini would be smaller and give more clearance away from my long, really hot, headers? Before I had the headers wrapped (PO did it) but when I removed everything out of the bay, I decided to remove the nasty old header wrap. Maybe the starter got too hot from the headers?
Looking around, I see some mini's go anywhere from $150 up to $300. Ouch. I did come across some info about DB Electrical starters on VMF but seems kind of cheap for a mini starter compared to others out there and there's no core charge so seems a little fishy to me. :shrug Anyone here have a DB starter?
Something like this. It also has wiring included.
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p- ... d0001.aspx
Of course I'm confused on what starter to get (if it turns out the one I have went bad) because I have mix-n-match thing going on. I have a '66 mustang but a 1990 302 motor and my trans is a C4 (I think it's from a 1970's vehicle) and its an automatic but manual valve body and I have no idea how many teeth the flywheel has.
The mini would be smaller and give more clearance away from my long, really hot, headers? Before I had the headers wrapped (PO did it) but when I removed everything out of the bay, I decided to remove the nasty old header wrap. Maybe the starter got too hot from the headers?
Looking around, I see some mini's go anywhere from $150 up to $300. Ouch. I did come across some info about DB Electrical starters on VMF but seems kind of cheap for a mini starter compared to others out there and there's no core charge so seems a little fishy to me. :shrug Anyone here have a DB starter?
Something like this. It also has wiring included.
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p- ... d0001.aspx
Of course I'm confused on what starter to get (if it turns out the one I have went bad) because I have mix-n-match thing going on. I have a '66 mustang but a 1990 302 motor and my trans is a C4 (I think it's from a 1970's vehicle) and its an automatic but manual valve body and I have no idea how many teeth the flywheel has.
You've got more than just a bad starter. If it is bad than, yes, header heat could have helped it to fail. A bad starter cannot run on it's own. The solenoid has to pass the current along to it. At minimum it would have to be bad and failed closed as well.
The post directly above yours states they have been running a DB for years with no problems.
The year of your car has no bearing on the starter selection. It's all about the engine/flexplate (you have an auto not a manual). If you go mini, clearance issues shouldn't be a problem. With a stock starter the type of trans can be an issue with clearance. Headers are also a problem with space.
Why aren't you out there figuring this out and fixing it? Thought you were someone who worked on their own car? That's the joy of old cars.
The post directly above yours states they have been running a DB for years with no problems.
The year of your car has no bearing on the starter selection. It's all about the engine/flexplate (you have an auto not a manual). If you go mini, clearance issues shouldn't be a problem. With a stock starter the type of trans can be an issue with clearance. Headers are also a problem with space.
Why aren't you out there figuring this out and fixing it? Thought you were someone who worked on their own car? That's the joy of old cars.
"Horseplay" said:
Well I checked everything I know how to check. As far as I can tell, wiring is ok (nothing looked fried, or connected wrong, grounds seem ok). I replaced the solenoid with another new one. Changed the voltage regulator. I tried removing the alternator so I could get that tested but not strong enough to get the tension spring to move to get the belt off. :hide
I also can't jump the car to test if it runs or not because hubby has the jumper cables in his truck (his truck has issues too).
Other than that... not really sure what else I can do to fix the car. :shrug
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Get a longer bar on the wrench to move the tension pulley for the belt removal....plus be sure you are going the correct direction with the pulley.
Is the battery dead? If not, jumping is not needed. If so, get it charging......
Is the battery dead? If not, jumping is not needed. If so, get it charging......
"Kats66Pny" said:
The mini will give better clearance away from the hot long-tubes, which is why I'm using it.
That the seller of the starter I have, DB Electric, a friend also is using it, no issues at all.
"Kats66Pny" said:
I've been there before...there is probably a way, it may take 10 minutes to remove by feel because you can't see the bolt and the wrench only moves 1 degree but try more before removing the header.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Yep.....it will come off but it is a real pain......long tubes suck for that and you get so little out of them..... The next problem may be actually getting it out past the headers. Then the install.........
I can't remove the headers to get to the starter. There isn't enough room to get the headers out unless you pull the whole motor out. It's a really tight fit. Plus the headers are welded back on to the exhaust like it was before so makes it more difficult to remove. :roll
Might just have to drain & drop the trans to get that sucker off. :roul
Might just have to drain & drop the trans to get that sucker off. :roul
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
Re: Re: Mini starters
Long extensions and swivels will go a long way helping you with this task.
You also need to charge your battery and have it tested. I've seen battery issues cause some of the starter issues you describe.
"Kats66Pny" said:
Long extensions and swivels will go a long way helping you with this task.
You also need to charge your battery and have it tested. I've seen battery issues cause some of the starter issues you describe.
Fast68back
Guest
Cat, look up rockauto, you can get one for under $100, a '95 5.0 starter shows to be $76.99 (plus $50 core, which you will get back), you can probably get one at a pick-n-pull cheaper, take it to any store and have it tested.
Locally, Pep Boys was the cheapest new/reman option when I got mine.
Locally, Pep Boys was the cheapest new/reman option when I got mine.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Dropping the tranny still requires the starter to be pulled...
+1. Shorty wrenches are also a big help. If this is on a sbf then you should be able to get it off with the right combination of tools...been there, done that with both a stock starter and a mini starter. The top bolt is obviously the hardest which is where a long extension 6"+ and a swivel come in very handy.
Reading these replies, it just doesn't seem worth to have items such as long tube headers if it gives one such grief as not be able to easily replace starters, etc. But for those who insist on them then yes it makes going with a mini starter that more important.