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Mustang Plumbing for Dummies

J

Johnny M

Active Member
Hey all.

I am at the stage now where i want to add the brake plumbing on my car.

I am running Wilwood brakes front and back. (The rears have the internal parking brake). I have the Rod and Customs power booster/Master cylinder/prop valve unit and the flexible SS brake lines for the front to take me as far as the body.
http://www.rcmotorsports.net/17link.html

I could go down the avenue of bending and flaring all the lines from scratch which i dont mind doing however that depends if the pre bent lines need alot of work or whether they just slot right in.

I have found these two companies. Has anyone any experience with either of them?

http://www.classictube.com/index.asp
http://www.inlinetube.com/


For the parking park i was looking at using the Lokar setup. Again has anyone used this setup?
http://www.lokar.com/product-descriptions/univ-ebrake-cables.htm

I am trying to get together all parts that i will need to hook up brakes and parking brake so any tips on what i need to order will be greatly appreciated. Down to clips, brackets, fittings, etc etc

Thanks,

Johnny
 
My only experience with brake lines is on my 66. I bought lengths from NAPA and bent / flared them to fit. It's not hard at all if you take the time to mock up the lines and flare the ends properly.

I used baling wire to mock it up. Take the wire, dbl it up, stick one end in a vise and the other in a drill, twist till tight and you have a strong wire that holds the bends.
 
Thanks for the info mark,


We have a flaring and bending tool here at work which i can use but the prebent ones are only $145.... For all the work involved in bending and flaring them it might not be worth it.
 
If you can use the pre-bents and the routing is factory, you're probably correct. If you are re-routing the lines (like what I did), doing it yourself is the way to go.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
If you can use the pre-bents and the routing is factory, you're probably correct. If you are re-routing the lines (like what I did), doing it yourself is the way to go.
Click to expand...

My car is not very "factory" so DIY might be the way forward.
 
I would use the 69/70 rear brake line if your running subframe connectors. It runs along the rail over the rear axle and doesnt cross over like 67/68.
 
If you go the DIY route take a look at the NAPA polymer lines. I was really impressed with how easy they bent and how tight (down to a 3/4" circle) without kinking. Not all NAPA's carry them though, my local indep. didn't but the co. one a few miles away did. See my post here: http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,6142.0.html

I went the discount route and used coat hangers to mock up my bends, I bent the coat hangers then held them next to the lines to get the bends in the right angle/degree. Be forwarned that I pretty much had to use all lines that were longer than I needed and cut/flared them at the ends when the bends were done. The chance of having a one piece line that was the right length happened once I think out of the ~6 lines I had to make up. I wasted some lines when they came up short after bending as the bends took more length out than I thought.
Jon
 
Johnny,

The aftermarket pre-bent line kits are designed for "factory stock" applications... this isn't your car. The RCM all-in-one prop/distribution valve isn't anywhere near where the factory distribution valve was and any aftermarket pre-bent lines won't even come close to where you'll need them. Trust me on this one. Buy a 25-30' roll of mild steel 3/16ths brake line (or similar) and custom cut/flare/bend your own lines to fit your exact application. Clip the lines along their length with appropriately spaced rubber isolated clamps such as seen here (but smaller diameter):


3_22_09_09_6_30_10_3.JPG



And yes, we used that exact Lokar kit for use with Joe's WilWood rear calipers and the stock ebrake lever mounted under the drivers seat pan.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I use stainless on all my cars,I bought a very expensive flaring tool but it would not even come close to flaring that hard stainless. I just mock them up out of copper tubing and send them off. Rich.
 
Ok thanks for the tips so far....

Let me go through this step by step

RCBrakeLines002.jpg


Based on the R&C instructions I have a single port for the rear brakes. So I run a single line as far as the rear end then split them to either side and like the front i run the last section with flexi pipe?

Thoughts on the route to run the pipes will be welcome. I am guessing the rear lines is more or less straight down the tunnel on the drivers side, over the top of the Rear end and the spilt off to each side? Is this simply a T joint?

Then i run each of the lines to the front wheel arches to the point where it changes over the flexi pipes. Do you I need to have the loops to prevent wear and tear on these lines?

The R&C Proportioning valve does not seem to be adjustable. Am i much less off without an adjustable proportioning valve?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Based on the R&C instructions I have a single port for the rear brakes. So I run a single line as far as the rear end then split them to either side and like the front i run the last section with flexi pipe?
Click to expand...

Yes.

Thoughts on the route to run the pipes will be welcome. I am guessing the rear lines is more or less straight down the tunnel on the drivers side, over the top of the Rear end and the spilt off to each side? Is this simply a T joint?
Click to expand...

On a factory car, the rear brake line runs from the distribution valve, down the DS of the tunnel, and then terminates just aft and to the DS of the tunnel. You may or may not still have a bracket installed there on your car (you may have removed it). Within this bracket installs the hose end of a rubber line. The rubber line is secured to the bracket with a special clip. The hard line connects to the soft line. The soft line extends to the small hole on the top of the DS axle tube where it is held in place with a long, hollow "tube bolt". The bolt is hollow as it also acts as the rear axle vent port and a rubber tube is connected to it that stows above the rear end on the truunk floorpan with another small clip. The end of the rubber brake line that's attached to the rear axle tube is a "T" fitting that splits fluid to both sides of the rear end.

There's a picture of the rear brake line bracket on Sigtaneous's thread about his exhaust pipes possibly interferring with his rear brake line on this forum, look for it.

Then i run each of the lines to the front wheel arches to the point where it changes over the flexi pipes. Do you I need to have the loops to prevent wear and tear on these lines?
Click to expand...


Yes. I didn't install "loops", but some people do. It's personal preference in this case as the distribution valve is attached to the master cylinder already.


The R&C Proportioning valve does not seem to be adjustable. Am i much less off without an adjustable proportioning valve?
Click to expand...


I'm using the same kit (for a '66 though) and had the same concern. The distribution valve is already set for four wheel disc brakes and should require no prop valve. Remember that a prop valve is normally used with a stock distribution valve that's not already designed for four wheel disc brakes. Technically, a prop valve should not be necessary with your setup.
 
Here's a picture of Sam's '68 that shows where the rear hard line and soft line meet and the bracket that supports the soft line. Barely visible is the brass colored end that's mounted onto the rear end that is in essence the "T".


427_01_08_10_2_11_32_3.jpg
 
Thanks for the info Dave...Helps A lot. Yet again i am reminded of the disadvantages of buying my first mustang already stripped down.

Luckily the rear bracket is still there.

If i go with regular mild steel lines will i not have rust issues. Is the pipe galvanized or factory coated?

I am just looking at the NPD catalogue and there are several different options for the rear flexi brake hose dependant on engine size. i guess i am going with the one for a 67 with a 428 but is that dependant on exhaust setup or travel on the rear suspension?

A lot of people use Copper pipe for brake lines over here. Its easy to work with and wont corrode.
 
Most of the variances in the rear brake line flex hose are due to different exhaust pipe routings. Since your exhaust pipes will be exiting through the rocker this is pretty much a non-issue for you. The '67 with 390 or the '68 with the 428 brake hose will work fine.

The rolls of brake line sold on Summit et al are coated with a rust resistant paint/coating. Mine have been on the car for 3 years and appear to be holding up well. Copper lines would work just fine also.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Most of the variances in the rear brake line flex hose are due to different exhaust pipe routings. Since your exhaust pipes will be exiting through the rocker this is pretty much a non-issue for you. The '67 with 390 or the '68 with the 428 brake hose will work fine.

The rolls of brake line sold on Summit et al are coated with a rust resistant paint/coating. Mine have been on the car for 3 years and appear to be holding up well. Copper lines would work just fine also.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave.
 
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