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My Mustang lost 13lbs.

tarafied1

Well-Known Member
I swapped the old copper/brass rad for a new aluminum rad today. The old one weighed 27lbs. and the new one only 14 lbs. the new one is from Engineered Cooling Product.



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Forgot to post a pic of the new radiator!


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Umm I think I see your cooling problem, unless that's one of those HiPo 180* cooling fan blades :whis
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"tarafied1" said:
Take a close look at the blade closest to the top of the radiator... I'm guessing it's some cardboard remnant that you put on the blade to protect the radiator during install... but it makes it look like the blade is bent over.
 
Ahhh
I see. Yes it does look bent. But your right its just a peace of paper. I did i little touch up painting while the radiator was out. The old radiator had been leaking and when i pressure washed the engine i blasted some of the paint of the water pump.


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"B67FSTB" said:
Craig

Don't want to be a pain in the a$$ , but a fan shroud is a must IMO.
I should probably add one but the fan is only a 1/2" away from the radiator
 
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I installed one of their radiators this weekend as well. Grounded the crap out of it and installed a cap with a sacrificial anode. Maybe this one will last more than 2,000 miles!!!
 
what did you do to ground it? I didn't really do anything special to ground mine. I will probably get a cap with an anode too.
 
After losing the last aluminum radiator to electrolysis in such a short time, it was suggested I make sure to ground it to the battery. I ran a 10 gauge wire from a mounting bolt to the negative on the battery. Multimeter shows zero ohms of resistance, so I believe I am good.
 
"tarafied1" said:
"B67FSTB" said:
Craig

Don't want to be a pain in the a$$ , but a fan shroud is a must IMO.
I should probably add one but the fan is only a 1/2" away from the radiator

If you don't have cooling problems in a hot climate , you can leave it that way , but I don't know better as with a shroud.

I believe then , when the engine is running , and you measure with a voltmeter between the housing of the rad and the min pole of the battery , zero volts . You don't have electrolyses in your system.

Or you measure , one lead in the coolant and the other lead at ground or min pole battery , the voltage which is an indication of electrolyses.

IMHO.
 
"B67FSTB" said:
If you don't have cooling problems in a hot climate , you can leave it that way , but I don't know better as with a shroud.

I believe then , when the engine is running , and you measure with a voltmeter between the housing of the rad and the min pole of the battery , zero volts . You don't have electrolyses in your system.

Or you measure , one lead in the coolant and the other lead at ground or min pole battery , the voltage which is an indication of electrolyses.

IMHO.
I do not have overheating problems, or at least I didn't with the old radiator. I expect the new one will be even better.
I will check for current in the water, my battery is in the trunk.
Thanks
 
I run only 15% antifreeze with water wetter (water additive), will that increase my risk for electrolysis? It cools pretty good and we rarely see temps below freezing (and when we do I am not driving the Stang!)
I had no problems with that combo in the old radiator and have many miles in very hot conditions using that set-up.
 
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