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My "NEW" motor! and lake home

Dne'

Well-Known Member
:pep I've never been more excited about something, but this motor really makes me feel good! Herb, the builder, came by yesterday and we unloaded it, mounted it on my stand. He had to make a run to ACE hardware to get some extra chain. He says he builds a motor a day. My motor wound up being about 2500.oo(I bought the valve covers and oil pan). I wrote it somewhere as to what's in the motor, but I don't know where I put it! Herb going to come out the day I install it, and then come out again to help me fire it up! Now is that service or what!! :pep If anyone would be interested in his work, he does have a site on Ebay and ships the motors. He will build it however you want it. HLGPER@Comcast.net If you are interested.
dne'
I've been away from my Mustang for a while, we've been working on our lake home in Conroe, TX. It's a very nice place!

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I've always wanted a nice garage! We've been working on redoing my garage, and it's taking some shape finally! The floor is being coated with Epoxy and clearcoat is next. Just not shown in this photo.
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An orange engine block is quite unusual for a Ford...any reason for selecting that color?

*sigh*...I wish I could be there to help install such a beauty!
 
The engine Midlife, this is about an engine.

That is a nice looking setup you have going there. Is that the same color as the car?
 
So many things pretty motor, pretty lady pretty house.
Im lucky to have those things in my life also.;)

Is that a 750 Edelbrock carb?
Only issue I ever had with one was on a big block 502 it sucked the needles closed at wide open throttle. Never even had a hickup on my old 289 tho.

The chevy orange did throw me off but it looks nice.
 
Thank you so much for the compliments! IIRC, it's a 600cfm. As for the color, its the same color as my Mustang. Why that color? Ford blue depresses me. This color will make the engine compartment come alive! The engine compartment will appear larger than the old engine compartment black. My little '67 will not look like its original self in its debut day, it will be designed and painted by 'yours truly'. We each build our car to our individual taste, yes? :pep Besides, if I don't like it, I can change it :notworthy:. It will be a while before installation, I have much to do, but sure is nice to have my engine there! :pep

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My last '66, I did the engine compartment to match the car. I got about 50-50 compliments/complaints on it. I liked it so that is all that matters. Current one is black and it is ok. Cars were for different lives. lol Your stripes will set it off nice.
 
Dne,

The motor seems like a very good deal. Having the builder come over to assist with the install is a BIG bonus! If any little thing needs tweaked, he's right there to take care of it.

As far as the block color goes, you're right, it's your choice. The orange block will look nice with the same color engine compartment. However, speaking from personal experience, the excitement of a brightly colored engine/engine compartment fades rapidly once you have to start cleaning everything. Within a year, that bright orange engine/compartment will look "dingy" and trying to keep it clean will consume you. It'll never look as nice as it did on day one no matter how much time/effort you expend. As long as you know what you're getting into, I say go for it, but a black engine will make the chrome components "pop" and is 1000 times easier to keep looking nice.
 
"Sluggo" said:
NICE!

Congrats Dne'.

Is it gonna be on the road by Christmas?

I'm pretty sure it will still be up on jack stands! :doh The obligations of Christmas are at hand now, once we get past the holidays, then I'm sure I will be working diligently getting my little stang on the road, or at least in the driveway! :rof As for the engine compartment color again~ this will be a Sunday driver for nice days only. If it becomes terribly dingy and general cleaning doesn't clean it, I'll pull the motor and redo it! :dance :pep.
Alright, heading to the garage, my crank pulley from classic air was bent and had to ship that back to them. Installing the ac bracket on today.
me
 
I like the color theme, I painted my engine to match the car too but I thought it would be too much red for the engine compartment too so it's black. Your car is looking great!
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Where's your battery?

"tarafied1" said:
I like the color theme, I painted my engine to match the car too but I thought it would be too much red for the engine compartment too so it's black. Your car is looking great!
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Obviously, the battery must be in your trunk? I haven't mounted my battery tray, and that looks like a neat way to open up the engine compartment! So How does one(me) go about making that upgrade happen? Do you mount the solenoid in the truck as well? Any infor would be appreciated! :pep
dne'
 
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Just visible forward of the passenger side shock tower you can see Craigs starter solenoid.

There are two ways to wire the car after mounting the battery in the trunk.

The easiest way is to ground the battery to the trunk floor/rear frame rail and then route a "0" size wire forward to the engine compartment where it will connect to the starter solenoid. The downside.... the heavy gauge wire is a constant "hot" running the length of the car and in the event of a bad accident could be a source of ignition for any spilled fuel.

The difficult way to do it.... is a little harder to explain, but in essence the starter solenoid is mounted in the trunk next to the battery and a mega-fused "1" sized wire is routed forward to the starter. The alternator wiring needs to be routed back to the trunk and anything else that would normally connect to the starter solenoid would too.

It boils down to how much work do you want to do?

Both my sons '68 and my '66 have trunk mounted batteries using the "easy" way mentioned above. Relocating the battery to the trunk, IMO, really cleans up the engine compartment.... and adds weight directly over the rearend of the car to provide additional traction.

Here's an "in-progress" picture of the electrical area in my sons '68. This is located where the battery tray used to install. The heavy gauge "0" sized wire routes along the inside of the frame rail all of the way forward to the engine compartment.

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And here's a picture that puts the area and the absence of a battery in perspective...

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"daveSanborn" said:
The difficult way to do it.... is a little harder to explain, but in essence the starter solenoid is mounted in the trunk next to the battery and a mega-fused "1" sized wire is routed forward to the starter. The alternator wiring needs to be routed back to the trunk and anything else that would normally connect to the starter solenoid would too.

This is a full topic in itself, but I'd just like to throw in here that you don't want to fuse the big cable to the starter in this design.
You want the starter to pull every amp it needs to get you started and you don't want a fuse blowing in the process.
In this design the only time it's hot is actually during starting so there's really no need to fuse it anyway.
 
Yep, what he said. I got my words mixed up. The heavy gauge ALT wire coming back to the starter solenoid would be fused. And.... he's right again in that this a BIG topic with many intracacies.
 
hm :show I have a little time to think on this one. My coil is in my distributor cap if this makes any difference. While I have my car in as many pieces as it is, this is the time to do it! I find myself in this predicament all the time now! The simple sentence, "this is the time to do it" is my most popular thing to say to my husband in my funding for the car! lol If someone would like to make a schematic (Midlife!!) or come up with a kit, I really would like to make this happen! :pep.
dne'

PS: happy thanksgiving everyone! :notworthy:
 
I did mine the easy way too. I ran the cable thru the passenger side rocker panel (like the wiring harness on the drivers side) and drilled a hole in the area where the door hinges are for the cable to come out on the wheel well side of the engine compartment. Then I brought it back into the engine compartment below the solenoid. I copied JamesW's approach outlined on his website here http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Battery.htm
 
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