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need 289 help

N

napaguy

Member
I have a 66 289 that needs pistons and I need help figuring out what I want. First let me say I am not an engine guy...66 289, 4 speed, stock heads with little porting, very little spirited driving. What would be my best choice? I dont want to spend a fortune but I dont want to do it over again. TIA
 
Forged pistons are recognized as the absolute strongest products available, capable of standing up to nearly anything. Hypereutectic pistons contain a much higher level of silicon than in a typical cast piston alloy, providing additional strength and reduced thermal expansion In other words, the hypereutectic piston, will expand less when the engine reaches full operating temperature. Thats why with forged pistons, you can hear the piston slap as it reaches operating temperature. It needs the heat to expand. Hypereutectic pistons are a relatively cheap up grade when rebuilding. One thing to remember is that the machining process does need to be more consistent when you’re using a hypereutectic product because you’re starting with a closer piston-to-wall clearance. It can be a little more challenging for a non-sophisticated shop to install hypereutectic pistons. Get a good set of moly rings, don't use the plasma because they are a lot harder to break in and overkill for a street application. Its also important to tell your machine shop you want the smallest piston possible. That leaves room for the future of the block. It is pretty much agreed that the 289 reaches its maximum at .030 over.
 
Ryan,
I was going to call you today to talk engines but got busy. I will try in the next couple of days.

Jake,
Thanks for the thorough answer. I am curious about anything .030 over being maxed out. My 289 right now is 30 over and my machinist says it needs to go 40. He didnt see any problems with doing so.

Thanks for the replies
 
Pat, they are correct on the piston type. (I didn't realize Ryan was an engine guru...cool) My 289 is .040 and I have no problems. If the walls are good at .030, can he just hone them? I wouldn't worry though with going to .040.
 
Lethal, KB didn't give me a choice when I got rings for my 331. I had to get file-to-fit plasma-moly rings (particularly since the top ring needs to have more gap than the lower rings). I've never had any problems with them sealing, and when I yanked my heads I could still see the cross-hatches in the cylinder walls after 25k mi.
 
Nothing against plasma rings... But if hes looking for a daily driver type, i just dont think its worth the extra money. Probably save close to 100 bucks and have a solid foundation to build off of.

Pat, I see your also looking for connecting rods, do you have a usable crank? The reason i ask, a lot of the time its easier to get a remanufactured crank and bearing set then it is to have a shop clean the 40 year old one then find bearings to match (Atleast in my case it was). And if you already need rods, nows the time to decide if you want to change the stroke. The pistons and rods need to match the stroke. Of course this is where you could build a stroker, something modest like a 331 package :naug. http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=23116&CtgID=
 
"lethal289" said:
Nothing against plasma rings... But if hes looking for a daily driver type, i just dont think its worth the extra money. Probably save close to 100 bucks and have a solid foundation to build off of.

Pat, I see your also looking for connecting rods, do you have a usable crank? The reason i ask, a lot of the time its easier to get a remanufactured crank and bearing set then it is to have a shop clean the 40 year old one then find bearings to match (Atleast in my case it was). And if you already need rods, nows the time to decide if you want to change the stroke. The pistons and rods need to match the stroke. Of course this is where you could build a stroker, something modest like a 331 package :naug. http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=23116&CtgID=
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I talked to Pat this afternoon and I'm sending him my old stock rods and crank, they'll head his way tomorrow! He's just wanting to get it back on the road.
 
Need to be serious for a moment....All I can say is Mark is the man. He is sending me his crank and rods for nothing!!!!! People like mark are what this hobby is all about. If you dont believe in paying things forward you might want to take a look now...I have given away so many things and sometimes get irritated when I didnt get as much as a simple thank you....but those things come back around as was proven today. Mark I cant say how much I appreciate your thoughtfullness and giving heart...now you and Jake can go back to trading insults :nice
 
Dang it Pat, you've shattered my rep of being an ass, I'll have to try harder to get it back!


Just glad I could help.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
Dang it Pat, you've shattered my rep of being an ass, I'll have to try harder to get it back!
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Nahh, don't worry, Mark. We still think you're an ass.

Seriously, that was great of you. I think we should all try to be like that.
 
Ata boy Mark... If you cant use them, pass them along. What a way to go.!

"napaguy" said:
now you and Jake can go back to trading insults :nice
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Thats what we do best i guess...
 
I agree, Mark is a stand up guy, he sent me a K&N filter and all he wanted in return was for me not saying anything bad about him for 6 six weeks.... four down and two more to go...... Thanks again Mark!
 
"lethal289" said:
Mark i never knew you bought good comments from people. What a :gobp loser! :sb
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Got to get them the only way I can :rofl
 
"lethal289" said:
It is pretty much agreed that the 289 reaches its maximum at .030 over.
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I disagree. Most machine shops will START at .030 on a rebuild and it's pretty much agreed that .060 is the maximum. There are lots of opinions on the .060, as many believe that it will make the engine run hotter. I don't really subscribe to that, though, as the machine shop that has built all my engines since the early '80's say they have built plenty of .060 FSB's and never heard of one having overheating problem because of it.
 
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