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Need help diagnosing problem...

Rorin67

New Member
On hard right turns, I feel a very rough vibration coming from the front left. It feels like it has something to do with the front left wheel, as the vibration feels like what I would imagine a missing ball bearing in a front left wheel bearing would feel like. Also, I feel this vibration whether turing at slow speeds in a parking lot or making slight turns on the freeway at high speed.

When I straighten the car out and wieght is evenly placed on both front wheels, the vibration goes away completely. Nothing like this happens on hard left turns when force is being applied to the front right.

I've recently replaced EVERYTHING on the front suspension except the upper control arms (which are only 3 years old) and the wheel itself and this problem still exists (replaced: all wheel bearings and races, spindles and disc brakes and rotors, LCAs, strut rods and bushings, springs, shocks, and roller perches). The tires are not hitting the wheel wells, and it's a funny problem because it happens MOST of the time, but not ALL of the time when turning right.

I'm thinking maybe I have a cracked shock tower, but I have no idea what that would "feel" like on the road. Also, after inspection, my shock towers look fine.

I'm kinda lost - any suggestions?

:scar
 
Not an easy one to siagnose, that's for sure.

Not that it should have anything to do with it, but can you swap the two front tires/wheels to 100% rule out the wheel/tire balancing?

Upper ball joint on the yet unchanged UCA worn?

Since the vibration is only present during turning, have you looked at steering components as a possible culprit? A loose/worn inner/outer tie rod ball joint could possibly cause your symptoms. Idler arm bushing?

I would think that you'd have to have a seriously noticable crack on a shock tower to cause your problem.
 
Do you feel it in the wheel or floorboard? Power steering or manual, stock type or R&P? Have you swapped wheels side to side?

The sway bar tight?
 
Thanks Guys. Let me see if I can answer some of these:

- Brand new ball joint on the UCA, no difference in problem between old ball joint and new one

- all steering components brand new. Swapped out old Flaming River manual R&P with a new Randalls Rack power R&P, and the problem is the same with both

- vibration is mostly felt in the floorboards, but it gets bad enough that I can feel it in the steering wheel sometimes

- have not noticed the problem going backwards, but then I never have a "hard turn" going backwards

- have not swapped front wheels yet, but that's a great suggestion and I'll have to try that this weekend!
 
Swap the wheels and see what happens. It's gonna be hard to diagnose on the boards but it sounds exactly like (I know you replaced 'em) a bad wheel bearing. Is there any chance a tire could be rubbing somewhere?
 
"blue65coupe" said:
Swap the wheels and see what happens. It's gonna be hard to diagnose on the boards but it sounds exactly like (I know you replaced 'em) a bad wheel bearing. Is there any chance a tire could be rubbing somewhere?
That's what I was thinking too and why I asked the stupid backwards question. If it does it only forwards, could be rubbing (I know you said nothing was rubbing but maybe under the load?) and if it always does it, could be one of those "new" bearings. I had replaced a wheel bearing on my T-Bird due to vibration (thought I had a tire balance issue) anyway, the "new" bearing went bad shortly after replacing it. The next one fixed it.
 
I would assume this was done but......were the races replaced with the wheel bearings? I had to replace one of the inner bearing on my '66 because the race was pitted bad. Bearing was fine and all were new according to the PO.
 
Thanks guys. Yup - new races as well - as they were new along with the new rotors I put at the same time. I'm gonna remove the tires/wheels this weekend and inspect everything for rubbing, as well as do the "wheel swap", and see what happens.

Thanks for your input everyone!
 
I think I would try preloading the left bearing a bit more before taking it all apart.
Did you install the races in the new rotors? Did you seat them by eye or by listening for them to bottom out?

Increasing the preload should at least change the "feel" If so, you know that's the problem.

I suspect the bearing.
 
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