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New experiment. Reverse electrolysis rust removal

70_Fastback

Hell Bent for Speed
While I'm finishing my basement and not getting any garage time; I figured I would try this in the background. I trying reverse electrolysis to non-abrasively remove rust from the wheels I am using on my next model A build. These are artillery type, Wide-5 wheels. They are not rusted horribly and blasting is a pain and removes material as well - so figured what better thing to experiment on.

I started with a 55-gallon plastic (HDPE) barrel. You can see the first wheel adjacent to it:
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I figured this would also be a good time to get the boys involved on this little science project. They measured & cut the rebar on the band saw. I show them how to figure circumference and they located the 4 equally spaced locations and drilled holes for the rebar & tis straps. They strapped the bars in place as well. They did a great job and they were really excited to help.

The rebar will serve as the electrodes. The electrolysis works on "line of sight" theory - hence the 4 quadrants around the barrel. I drilled the top of each rebar to run my wires through to get the best possible contact patch - the electrodes need to be installed/wired in series:
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The base solution is just water and Arm & Hammer WASHING soda. I used one tablespoon per gallon mixture. The wheel is suspended FREELY without touching the electrodes. I am adding water to mix the solution here:
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Here is the setup first introduced to the DC charge. I am using my battery charger set to 12V & 10-Amps. The positive lead goes to your electrodes and the Negative attaches to the lead from the item to be cleaned:
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Tiny bubbles of hydrogen start to emit from the solution & metal as the charge builds in the solution. This is 6 hours after initial startup:
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And 18 hours later. See the rust scum forming on top? That is releasing from the wheel:
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There is no hard fast time/result window. I will let it set for another day and pull it out and see where I am.
 

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I've seen a number of similar posts over the years. Each with varying degrees of success. Looks like yours may be one of the better attempts. Mega-kudos for getting the kids involved.
 
I've read some in the past about this process, J. Is there a need to cover it up in order to prevent getting rain in it if left outside to prevent it from diluting the solution? Is this process safe to perform inside a shop if desired?
 
"Grabber70Mach" said:
I've read some in the past about this process, J. Is there a need to cover it up in order to prevent getting rain in it if left outside to prevent it from diluting the solution? Is this process safe to perform inside a shop if desired?

I will cover it if calling for rain. But don't keep it covered because it condensates. And it was highly recommended to do it in a well ventilated area due to the hydrogen release.


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I tried this several years back with a water pump housing. The results were pretty good. Wait until you pull the rebar out! The bulk of the rust is attracted to it. You'll be impressed!!
 
Today marks 3 full days under current. I will pull the wheel out tonight and wash it off with the hose.
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You can see in this picture that the rust is algae like in nature now and basically free standing in the wheel. It should wash/wipe right off.

Will post results later.


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You'll probably end up with a black coating on your part. No worries though, it's normal. It scrubs right off with little effort leaving a nice, relatively clean bare surface.
 
Results are in...

When I pulled the wheel out, all of the rust slid off and stayed with the water. I am guessing due to the charge still within the water.

After a quick rinse, wipe with a terry cloth and blowed it off with compressed air - this is the result:

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I am quite surprised. I think one more dip would help release the rest of that paint on there.
 

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So hard to tell from the pics but it looks like a fair amount of deep set rust is still present. Is that the case?
 
After you are done and dry the wheel off, you'll probably want to apply a heat gun to remove any moisture that has soaked into the metal. Without removing all of the moisture, the wheel will begin to rust very soon. Some people put their parts in an oven at 200* for an hour or so.
 
"Horseplay" said:
So hard to tell from the pics but it looks like a fair amount of deep set rust is still present. Is that the case?

It's paint. There are two different colors. One was black, the other was red - but the red has changed to a creamy pinkish color now.
 
now a walnut shell blast would make that very nice....
 
"Mach1ne" said:
Now that was cool. Is that one of the wheels off of the axle from the farm?

It's the matching pair for those. Those still have tires on them. I will do them as well though.


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