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Not Mustang related - Modular V10 exhaust studs failing

S

sigtauenus

Active Member
I have a motorhome with a 1997 Econoline chassis and the V10.

I was underneath it yesterday doing a trans drain and fill and while looking around I noticed that at least 2 exhaust studs on the passenger side had broken off. The camper was just inspected last month so there is no exhaust leaks that I or the inspection station noticed, but this is a problem that needs to be addressed soon.

I'm surfing over on ford-trucks.com for the best solution, but would appreciate any input here if you guys have done this already on a modular engine. I understand the 5.4's are having the same problem for a number of years. I can get the studs out no problem, but the question is what kind of hardware to use to replace the substandard factory hardware. I've just been reading stories about guys spending upwards of 6-8-1000 and then the studs just breaking again 20k down the road. I have no interest in doing this, but even less interest in paying somebody else to do it. So if I do it, I'm only doing it once and need to buy the best hardware I can get.
 
I found ARP stainless stud sets, $98 per set of 10. I need 2 sets. Dayum.

Not enough time in the day. I have a box on the counter with all the belts, tensioners, hoses, and water pump for my wife's RX300 that I need to do with a 10 year old vehicle getting a timing belt change. Add drilling out exhaust studs for the motorhome, and I have not much time for working on the fastback. Add that its a 100 freakin degrees here and I'm not happy at all.
 
I've done a ton of them on the 5.4s, a few on the 4.6s and one on the V10. Here in the rusty north east, its a pretty common thing. The rust causes swelling and if youre lucky the nut shears off even with the manifold. Done quite a few with the stud broke off even with the head. Ford has an updated stud since the original ones from 97-98 but I've also seen them break.

If youre not hearing any exhaust noise, I would leave it alone. Usually you'll hear them leaking on cold starts and then the leak seals as everything heats and expands. If you think the bolt kits are expensive, price the gaskets from ford....
 
The two I saw popped off even with the manifold. I figured with the manifold off I could grab the nub and twist.

So I don't have to worry about the manifold falling off on me while driving, I still have some time?
 
Generally they twist out pretty easy if you have something to grab on. I doubt you'll have a manifold fall off. I have lots of customers driving around with broken studs that dont want to put the money into replacing them. Personally, if you hear no exhaust leak, I'd leave it alone. Now that you know about it, just keep and eye and ear on it. If you loose another or hear it leaking, repair it, if not, enjoy it. Its not your daily driver....
 
I have a tip for what it's worth. When trying to remove broken bolts use some heat from a propane torch and then rub a candle on it. The heat will melt the wax and it will flow into the threads, making the bolts easier to remove.

I used to try wd40 and similar products, but the heat would just burn them off, sometimes catching fire. The wax trick really does the job.
 
"ZFORCE" said:
I have a tip for what it's worth. When trying to remove broken bolts use some heat from a propane torch and then rub a candle on it. The heat will melt the wax and it will flow into the threads, making the bolts easier to remove.

I used to try wd40 and similar products, but the heat would just burn them off, sometimes catching fire. The wax trick really does the job.
Click to expand...

I remember my engine rebuilding instructor using this trick to make it easier to remove pressed in rocker studs. Probably better to use a chunk of paraffin, the candle probably has other stuff added to the wax (coloring, etc).

Frank
 
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