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Pinched heater hose on block

spitse

New Member
So I thought I was going to be smart and get the extended tube heater core like from CJ Pony Parts for my 65 that go into the engine bay. I had bad thought of me trying to fit the heater box with hoses hanging on it.
The extended heater core did as advertised, putting the ends into the engine bay. However, it is pretty close to my engine block. Turns out the 351w is a bit longer and closer to the firewall than the 289/302, so when the rubber hose is on the tube, it is partially pinched. So it can go up on top of the block.
1- is a pinched heater hose a bad thing, especially if the hose presses against the valve cover? There is an opening where water does flow, all be it restricted somewhat.
2- are there 90 degree adapters that might work?
3- thoughts on cutting the pipe a bit shorter and somehow flare it. I think cutting off 1/4-3/8 would allow the hose to not be as pinched.


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Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
1. The engine will rock a bit under initial acceleration and such. This will cause wear and eventual failure of the hose if it is pressed against it. The restricted flow is not the end of the world as it has zero effect on the engine operation but it could cause your heater to not be able to blow as warm as it once did.

2. There are pre-formed 90 degree hose bits you can buy from an auto parts store. Not sure that would make a difference without seeing pics of your situation.

3. You could cut the tube extension a bit. You don't necessarily need an expanded ridge in the tube to get a leak proof seal but creating a new bubble flare on the end is easy enough with the right tool which would do the job. Now whether or not you can do that with the core installed is the issue. I'd be fairly confident a tightly fitting hose with a good hose clamp would do the job.
 

69GT350H

Member
The 69/70 uses this S hose to clear the engine. It goes from the heater core inlet/outlet to the heater flow control valve. It is a molded semi-rigid hose so it resists kinking/pinching.

 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
Just go to your auto parts store and ask to see what they have in stock for 5/8" I.D. formed hoses. Pick the cheapest one with a bend that looks like it will work and cut off the section you need. This way you can buy something made for a popular/plentiful car which will only cost you a few bucks rather than something made for a classic or rare need that will cost more.

I'm not so sure though that a formed bend will clear based on your first post. You likely need to trim the pipe first.
 

spitse

New Member
Thanks for the tips. Got a lot to think about. Classic cars are never cut and dried. And I enjoy the learning along the way. My biggest concern was if a flare was needed or if pressures got too high in the coolant system.


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Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
The pressure in the system is limited by the value of your radiator cap. Stock for a V8 mustang is 13 psi. As long as the pipe is smooth and round a hose will seal up just fine and not blow off or leak.
 

B67FSTB

The NorCal dude from Belgium
Have to look under the hood cause I have a 351W and never had an issues that I can remender.
 

spitse

New Member
Update. I got a formed 90 degree hose and a 90 degree plastic barb and got it to work. Did not have to cut the heater core. Still close but not rubbing. I got some of the hose shoved into the firewall to make some more room. I probably will have to cut it off if I have to remove the heater core again. No room to work any leverage to get the hose off back there.

And yes, I like the sleek lines of the 65-66. While the 67-68 do look good, they are more of a 65-66 with a “dad bod”. Lol


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