AzPete
Well-Known Member
About two weeks ago, the starter crapped out on my '66. No big deal, arrange with Randy (Midlife) for some lift time and replace it. We do this and find a screw inserted between the bell housing and the block plate, to the outside on the lower mount bolt. Odd, but we put things back without the screw. We were able to get the exact brand and part number starter and all worked great.
A week later, actually on the 6th, I go to move the Mustang and the starter sounds like crap and then stops turning the engine. Just a whrrrr of a non-engaged starter. If the car won't start, I have to fix it in the gravel in front of the RV....plus our cold spell of weather.
Since lowering the car, the bottle jack is to tall.....dig out some dirt...jack it up....block the car....remove the wheel....check starter. Well, I find it is hanging by the lower bolt only and upon inspection, the upper bolt flange is broken off the starter. CRAP. I pull the starter and find no teeth on the starter gear. Crap again. Now, I am laying on a rug, on the gravel, working at arms length wedged under the car. My concern is get things changed. I went to Auto Zone with the busted starter and they actually replaced it.... I was surprised.
New starter in and it sounds like crap. I start thinking and decide the starter gear is engaging to deep into the flywheel ring gear causing the hard growling sound as the car starts. That's it, no more running until I can get it on the lift. After Randy mentioned the screw we left out the first time, I loosen it a bit and turned a screw into the same location as the other. That forced the starter gear to tilt away from the ring gear for an easier engagement.
OK, we got it on the lift today. Did a lot of talking and calculating, pulled the starter, and looked things over good. Found the block plate was bent in around the outer side of the starter. I went to straighten that and a split lock washer fell out from between the block plate and the bell housing, at the lower starter hole location. What the hell...... More thoughts and discussion. Got the block plate straightened and decided to install the starter without the washer or the screw, kind of like installing one the proper way.... All works great.....yea!!!!
Now, why the washer and screw you may ask...or not. Anyway, we figured that the bends in the block plate caused it to hit the weight and bolts on the flywheel and torque converter. The washer was put between those two items to stop the hitting. This caused the starter to sit crooked, so the screw was needed to tilt the starter gear out, away from the ring gear. The starter was also allowed to sit all crooked based on the way the block plate was bent in along the outer edge of the starter mounting location.
The PO or his mechanic did all this washer/screw work instead of taking a pair of needle nose pliers and straightening the block plate.
Ahhhhhhthe Wattles was good.
A week later, actually on the 6th, I go to move the Mustang and the starter sounds like crap and then stops turning the engine. Just a whrrrr of a non-engaged starter. If the car won't start, I have to fix it in the gravel in front of the RV....plus our cold spell of weather.
Since lowering the car, the bottle jack is to tall.....dig out some dirt...jack it up....block the car....remove the wheel....check starter. Well, I find it is hanging by the lower bolt only and upon inspection, the upper bolt flange is broken off the starter. CRAP. I pull the starter and find no teeth on the starter gear. Crap again. Now, I am laying on a rug, on the gravel, working at arms length wedged under the car. My concern is get things changed. I went to Auto Zone with the busted starter and they actually replaced it.... I was surprised.
New starter in and it sounds like crap. I start thinking and decide the starter gear is engaging to deep into the flywheel ring gear causing the hard growling sound as the car starts. That's it, no more running until I can get it on the lift. After Randy mentioned the screw we left out the first time, I loosen it a bit and turned a screw into the same location as the other. That forced the starter gear to tilt away from the ring gear for an easier engagement.
OK, we got it on the lift today. Did a lot of talking and calculating, pulled the starter, and looked things over good. Found the block plate was bent in around the outer side of the starter. I went to straighten that and a split lock washer fell out from between the block plate and the bell housing, at the lower starter hole location. What the hell...... More thoughts and discussion. Got the block plate straightened and decided to install the starter without the washer or the screw, kind of like installing one the proper way.... All works great.....yea!!!!
Now, why the washer and screw you may ask...or not. Anyway, we figured that the bends in the block plate caused it to hit the weight and bolts on the flywheel and torque converter. The washer was put between those two items to stop the hitting. This caused the starter to sit crooked, so the screw was needed to tilt the starter gear out, away from the ring gear. The starter was also allowed to sit all crooked based on the way the block plate was bent in along the outer edge of the starter mounting location.
The PO or his mechanic did all this washer/screw work instead of taking a pair of needle nose pliers and straightening the block plate.
Ahhhhhhthe Wattles was good.
