primer/filler question

[Dne']

I shot some epoxy primer on my roof, and other areas too. I still have body work to do yet. How soon after priming with epoxy can I put filler on? I do have pits that are faint, but are apparent, should I use high filling primer before putting filler? then finish with sealer/expoxy?

 

[Midlife]

I'd wait about 2 days for the epoxy to fully cure. What does your paint manufacturer say?

 

[Sluggo]

Go by the epoxy manufacturer's recommendation.

What kind of body work do you need to do? Light coat for pits or fixing dents?

 

[Dne']

HI! Around the outter edges(just about all the way around) there is filler already, but when I scraped off the paint, I put some pretty deep scratches into it in many places, and on the passenger side I removed the filler(about 1/2 " at the deepest and maybe 5" x 10" or more in area) leaving some low spots not visible so much in the photo.

The remainder of the body work is the right front fender around the fender well, but I can tackle that ok, and then other lows that just need a glaze, then just block sanding.

I'm using Eastwoods epoxy primer, so I'll check that tomorrow or may even call tech at eastwood. I do have a gallon of PPG JP202 (2K surface primer) that I've never used, I thought I could use that on the roof (maybe even the entire car)over the epoxy to be able to build up so I can sand it back down smooth to hide the pits and other inconsistencies.

Maybe you can help me here in the staging of paint/body:
I coat the stang with expoxy, then building primer, then filler work, then more building primer, block it(fix the lows), epoxy to seal it all, then paint within several days before the expoxy cures? is this kind of correct??

Go by the epoxy manufacturer's recommendation.

What kind of body work do you need to do? Light coat for pits or fixing dents?

 

[Dennis66stang]

Maybe you can help me here in the staging of paint/body:
I coat the stang with expoxy, then building primer, then filler work, then more building primer, block it(fix the lows), epoxy to seal it all, then paint within several days before the expoxy cures? is this kind of correct??

I used House of Kolor paint on my car when I did. I also set up a paint booth in my garage much like you are doing.
Basically the steps I took were to first epoxy the entire car. I then used Evercoat rage gold to do the majority of the bulk filling and leveling. After that was sanded down and close to where I wanted it, I put on a coat of Evercoat Rage Extreme. The Rage extreme is a bit finer and doesnt leave pin holes in the filler and is also easier to get a smooth final sand. After all the filling was done I put on another coat of Epoxy. Block sanded the entire car. Then a 2k primer, followed by blocking the car again. After that I put on a white primer/sealer followed by the base coat and clear coat.

Depending on what paint system you use, get their tech sheets. I studied the ones for House of Kolor for days before I painted. When it came time to paint I had everything laid out on my bench. Alot of the products have a short recoat window and you need to apply your next coat in a specific time period.

I would say for my first paint job ever it came out pretty good, and your vent system looks alot better then what I had lol

 

[Sluggo]

I used House of Kolor paint on my car when I did. I also set up a paint booth in my garage much like you are doing.
Basically the steps I took were to first epoxy the entire car. I then used Evercoat rage gold to do the majority of the bulk filling and leveling. After that was sanded down and close to where I wanted it, I put on a coat of Evercoat Rage Extreme. The Rage extreme is a bit finer and doesnt leave pin holes in the filler and is also easier to get a smooth final sand. After all the filling was done I put on another coat of Epoxy. Block sanded the entire car. Then a 2k primer, followed by blocking the car again. After that I put on a white primer/sealer followed by the base coat and clear coat.

Depending on what paint system you use, get their tech sheets. I studied the ones for House of Kolor for days before I painted. When it came time to paint I had everything laid out on my bench. Alot of the products have a short recoat window and you need to apply your next coat in a specific time period.

I would say for my first paint job ever it came out pretty good, and your vent system looks alot better then what I had lol

Good methodology.

I use Evercoat Z-grip followed by Evercoat Metal Glaze. Tried the Rage stuff but did not care for it. Matter of preference and not a product review.

Any filler work you do should be directly on top of the epoxy (with proper prep in the areas to be filled). You want to keep your filler under the primer so when the car heats up out in the Texas sun, all your filler spots don't swell. Get it as straight as possible before the 2k primer goes on.

 

[Dne']

THanks for the advice~ ; )

OK,, thanks for the advice! I guess I kind of have it going in the right direction~ let's just see what happens! :craz

 

[mustangstofear]

Any time you are doing ant kind of priming I wait at least one week for all the solvents to come to the top. When you charge 10,000 for a paint job YOU DON'T rush it. Rich.

 

[Dne']

I'm a little confused!

The Eastwood expoxy primer that I'm using says the color can be shot in the same day or at least within 7 days to obtain a chemical bond. If I wait for after 10days, then I lose that option? You're the experts, I just don't want to have to repaint my stang again(at least within the next couple years!lol). Anyway, I put some glaze and filler on a few of the lows on my roof and the primer sanded pretty good. I'd like to sand the epoxy down a little to get closer to the pits levels, then shoot the 2K that I have to level the roof out even more. Then a few days before I shoot my color, seal the entire car with epoxy again. Please correct me if i'm wrong.
thanks~ dne'

Any time you are doing ant kind of priming I wait at least one week for all the solvents to come to the top. When you charge 10,000 for a paint job YOU DON'T rush it. Rich.

 

[Midlife]

Scuff the epoxy now and apply primer. When you've done all of your color block sanding, scuff everything again and then re-shoot the epoxy as a final primer, then cover with top coat.

The scuffing (typically with 300 grit or so) allows physical bonding of one paint or epoxy with another without a chemical bonding. Scuffing while the epoxy is curing may give you the opportunity of both chemical and physical bonding, but physical bonding may take precedent.

 

[Dne']

Yes, keep it simple!

I like that response, that makes sense and sounds simple, and simple = GOOD! or follows the logic of the KISS principle!

Scuff the epoxy now and apply primer. When you've done all of your color block sanding, scuff everything again and then re-shoot the epoxy as a final primer, then cover with top coat.

The scuffing (typically with 300 grit or so) allows physical bonding of one paint or epoxy with another without a chemical bonding. Scuffing while the epoxy is curing may give you the opportunity of both chemical and physical bonding, but physical bonding may take precedent.