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Primer guns

Dne'

Dne'

Well-Known Member
I've been using a lesser expensive paint gun/s. They're called "Starting line HVLP" by Devilbiss. I like the color coat gun and pleased with how it sprays, but only now realizing how much the primer gun is used! The top hole in the cover keeps getting stopped up and I take a small drill bit to open it back up, only to get stopped up again, and I don't like the way it sprays, but I discovered after I had sprayed stuff recently, it says 30psi on the handle(primer gun). So I think I was spraying with too much pressure(40psi). It just looks like I used a rattle can to spray with as I can see the lines of the passes that I've made. Any advice on primer guns?
dne'
 
i like to use old siphon feed guns for primer, i guess thats just because of how i learned. But nothing fancy.
 
I use a starting line with a 1.8 tip for priming.

I use a Devibiss Tekna for base and clear. Next time I have some spare cash I'm going to buy an Iwata LPH400 LV for clear only and use the Tekna for base.
 
I'm not sure, but it sounds like you've got too much paint coming out of the gun. I usually turn the dial almost all the way in and then dial it out a little at a time until I get the right volume of paint. For high build primer, I think you can reduce it 5 to 10% to even out the flow a bit too. I don't think you can reduce epoxy though, at least I've never tried. I almost always add some reducer to 2K urethane and it sprays so much nicer.
 
Thanks Stangg, actually I think I was using way too much air pressure too! It says right on the handle 30psi and I was using probably 40-50. I've had my epoxy primer for a coupe years, it's down to about a 1/2 can and it just seems really thick, thicker than it should. I may just order a new epoxy/catalyst today. I have the 2k primer, and that's next to be sprayed on my stang roof~ if this doesn't cover the pits, I'll have to resort to glazing the roof, the re-epoxy. This roof has been a nightmare!

"stangg" said:
I'm not sure, but it sounds like you've got too much paint coming out of the gun. I usually turn the dial almost all the way in and then dial it out a little at a time until I get the right volume of paint. For high build primer, I think you can reduce it 5 to 10% to even out the flow a bit too. I don't think you can reduce epoxy though, at least I've never tried. I almost always add some reducer to 2K urethane and it sprays so much nicer.
Click to expand...
 
After much hair pulling and gnashing of teeth last summer during my second ever (black!) paint job, I found out that you're supposed to set the pressure at the gun with the trigger pulled. Once I found that out, things magically started going better. :lol

PS: Did I mention that black paint jobs are hell? :lol
 
What makes Black paint so difficult?

Something is wrong with the regulator at my gun, I'll set it, and then pull the trigger, then it goes to 20psi no matter what I set it on! So took it off and set the pressure at the waterfilter. My gun does have a 'regulator' at the bottom of the handle, but there's no way to tell what the pressure is coming out. I'll be going to the paintshop, see what gun regulators they have; I know there are true regulators, then the cheapy ones that only regulate once the trigger is pulled otherwise blast at full psi until regulated(if that makes any sense).
So, what makes a black paint job so difficult vs. other colors? I must say the single stage orange that I'm using is forgiving!

quote author=gotstang link=topic=9774.msg121799#msg121799 date=1287576228]
After much hair pulling and gnashing of teeth last summer during my second ever (black!) paint job, I found out that you're supposed to set the pressure at the gun with the trigger pulled. Once I found that out, things magically started going better. :lol

PS: Did I mention that black paint jobs are hell? :lol
[/quote]
 
Black in my opinion is the simplest color to lay down, what scares so called painters is wavy bodywork and not able to get there buffer marks out. Rich.
 
fyi, the paint shop told me catalyst doesn't have a very long shelf life after opened.

i always reduce me epoxy and 2k primer to the maximum allowable per the P-sheet. it sprays a lot smoother.
 
"mustangstofear" said:
I use all SATA guns 2.2 for my 4to1 primers 1.3 for base coat and 1.4 for clear, these are not cheap guns 550 to 750 .Rich.
Click to expand...

same here. on the color, the 1.3 seems to atomize the paint better & the 1.4 works great with the high solid clears out now. keep an eye out on ebay for a good gun. i've bought a few SATA's cheap that were bought by d.i.y., used once, then not needed so put on ebay & sold cheap.
 
There is a new Iwata out that our shop bought for like 100 bucks! I did not use it on anythinig important because I figured 100 bucks it wouldn't spray worth a crap but it put the clear on very nicely. I can get more info on it if interested.

Anyways I have sprayed alot with DevilBiss I have had problems getting no pattern and we have sent in 2 since August to get rebuilt.
 
not sure about the develbiss that you were using, but the SATA guns have a plastic ring behind the fluid tip that goes bad & causes no fan adjustment . they go bad all of a sudden with no warning & usually at a bad time, so i keep a couple extras in the cabinet.
 
The trick with the caps is don't let them soak in thinner, my one painter does that with his guns but I don't and mine last for years.Rich.
 
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