Putting my 67 back togethor.

[southern_boy]

I want to Finnish my first project (1967 Mustang.) But I need to ask ya'll what would be easier/better to do. First off, since I have the interior out of it, should I go ahead and prep and paint the interior? Also, since I have the engine and interior out, would now also be a good time to rewire with a ez wiring harness (http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html) that way im not dealing with an original wiring harness, that way I dont have to worry about faulty wiring, and fire hazards? And would it be easier/better if I took the Auto Tranny all the way out too and put the engine/tranny in all at once?

 

[tarafied1]

I'm a big proponent of using Ford stuff when ever possible. The wiring can be checked out by Midlife for significantly less than a new harness and you can add relays to things like the headlights to reduce load, and make them brighter. Checkout Midlife here http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/index.php/board,50.0.html
and yes prep and paint the metal interior just like the body, now would be the best time. The trans can be installed on the engine too.

 

[southern_boy]

I'm a big proponent of using Ford stuff when ever possible. The wiring can be checked out by Midlife for significantly less than a new harness and you can add relays to things like the headlights to reduce load, and make them brighter. Checkout Midlife here http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/index.php/board,50.0.html
and yes prep and paint the metal interior just like the body, now would be the best time.

Well I meant, how exactly do I prep/paint it? I've never painted anything. Is there a post on here for how to?

 

[tarafied1]

Well there are many ways. It depends on your budget. I recently had a dash and some parts soda blasted to remove the paint. Then I had them powder coated. It turned out very nice. It can be expensive to do all the stuff and some things can't be powder coated if they are still in/attached to the car. On the other extreme you could use a wire wheel on a drill or die grinder to "strip" the paint and rattle can spray paint a self-etching primer and interior paint. The factory colors are available at Mustang suppliers. If the paint is in pretty decent shape and original (not many layers) you could just scuff it with a brillo pad, and paint. The doors and rear side panels have a vinyl type pattern stamped in and would look bad with too many layers. That also makes it hard to sand. You might have to use a chemical stripper if you can't get the paint off with a wire wheel or by soda blasting.

 

[southern_boy]

Well there are many ways. It depends on your budget. I recently had a dash and some parts soda blasted to remove the paint. Then I had them powder coated. It turned out very nice. It can be expensive to do all the stuff and some things can't be powder coated if they are still in/attached to the car. On the other extreme you could use a wire wheel on a drill or die grinder to "strip" the paint and rattle can spray paint a self-etching primer and interior paint. The factory colors are available at Mustang suppliers. If the paint is in pretty decent shape and original (not many layers) you could just scuff it with a brillo pad, and paint. The doors and rear side panels have a vinyl type pattern stamped in and would look bad with too many layers. That also makes it hard to sand. You might have to use a chemical stripper if you can't get the paint off with a wire wheel or by soda blasting.

Alright, and before you said your big on using Ford parts when you can. Well I can get Midlife to do underdash stuff, but what about engine harness? Also, its expensive to get ford stuff =/ the reason I figured id go with EZ wiring harness is because all the wires say where they go, and also its fairly cheap. Just saying what my train of thought is on.

 

[tarafied1]

Midlife charges $175 to go thru the underdash stuff and $50 for the tailight harness but he does recommend repop stuff for under the hood. http://www.midlife66.com/harnesses/welcome.html
If you stay with an original style like a refurbished harness and repop ALT and engine harness, most everything is specific connectors and Randy can help with any mods or diagrams. I should let him speak for himself. Aftermarket harnesses tend to use GM style connectors. It should work fine but could be a PIA with some things. You must remember, you get what you pay for. I have never used EZ wiring, maybe someone else can say if they have had experience with it. It may be a good option, I don't know

 

[southern_boy]

Midlife charges $175 to go thru the underdash stuff and $50 for the tailight harness but he does recommend repop stuff for under the hood. http://www.midlife66.com/harnesses/welcome.html
If you stay with an original style like a refurbished harness and repop ALT and engine harness, most everything is specific connectors and Randy can help with any mods or diagrams. I should let him speak for himself. Aftermarket harnesses tend to use GM style connectors. It should work fine but could be a PIA with some things. You must remember, you get what you pay for. I have never used EZ wiring, maybe someone else can say if they have had experience with it. It may be a good option, I don't know

thanks tarafied.

 

[AzPete]

If you are adding a bunch of things like power windows, locks and such, EZ might be ok. If keeping close to stock, there is nothing like removing one harness and installing another that just plugs right in. Midlife's restoration is the way to go also.

 

[southern_boy]

Midlife charges $175 to go thru the underdash stuff and $50 for the tailight harness but he does recommend repop stuff for under the hood. http://www.midlife66.com/harnesses/welcome.html
If you stay with an original style like a refurbished harness and repop ALT and engine harness, most everything is specific connectors and Randy can help with any mods or diagrams. I should let him speak for himself. Aftermarket harnesses tend to use GM style connectors. It should work fine but could be a PIA with some things. You must remember, you get what you pay for. I have never used EZ wiring, maybe someone else can say if they have had experience with it. It may be a good option, I don't know

I searched to see if anybody has used any other companys wiring harnesses and found people that have used Painless and then they used EZ Wiring, and said they are nothing but pleased. They say its practically the same thing for better price.

 

[cmayna]

Both my Mustangs have Painless. I went with Painless in Red because it's original wiring was butchered beyond repair and I believe Midlife wasn't offering his services back then. Being that we installed a modern stereo, etc it was nice using Painless. I probably could have salvaged Shag's original wiring but since I had such a good time working with Painless prior to, I simply decided to go that route again. Unless you are installing components which the stock harness can't handle, I'd probably stay stock. EZ and Painless still take a lot of tweaking, wrapping, connector installing.

Very time consuming, but I admit it was probably the the most fun part of my restoration projects.

 

[southern_boy]

Both my Mustangs have Painless. I went with Painless in Red because it's original wiring was butchered beyond repair and I believe Midlife wasn't offering his services back then. Being that we installed a modern stereo, etc it was nice using Painless. I probably could have salvaged Shag's original wiring but since I had such a good time working with Painless prior to, I simply decided to go that route again. Unless you are installing components which the stock harness can't handle, I'd probably stay stock. EZ and Painless still take a lot of tweaking, wrapping, connector installing.

Very time consuming, but I admit it was probably the the most fun part of my restoration projects.

Modern stereos are in the plans for both vehicles.

 

[AzPete]

....but just a modern stereo is not reason for painless or ez type harnesses. It can still be wired pretty easy compared to changing all the plugs in the car.

 

[Fst Blk]

I've got one of those ez wiring harnesses sitting on a shelf for the mustang. Traded a 5 lug 69 Chevy front assembly and rear end for it. I used one on my 67 SWB Chevy and found it fairly easy to use.
Bill

 

[southern_boy]

....but just a modern stereo is not reason for painless or ez type harnesses. It can still be wired pretty easy compared to changing all the plugs in the car.

Well, modern stereo system, bass and all. LED lights (brake, blinkers, headlights), new guages.

 

[AzPete]

Gauges and LED lights still run the same wires.....

Stereo system if you are adding a big amp and such can still be wired without the need for an expanded harness. After all, how is it that they can add all this stereo crap to a new car without having to completely rewire the car

Not saying the expanded harness would be a poor choice, I just feel it is not necessary for stereo additions.

Look at the cost and work involved and make YOUR decision.

 

[southern_boy]

Gauges and LED lights still run the same wires.....

Stereo system if you are adding a big amp and such can still be wired without the need for an expanded harness. After all, how is it that they can add all this stereo crap to a new car without having to completely rewire the car

Not saying the expanded harness would be a poor choice, I just feel it is not necessary for stereo additions.

Look at the cost and work involved and make YOUR decision.

Ok, so 225 to get Midlife to do it.

165 for a 20 fuse-20 circuit kit.

From the way im looking at it it looks like the EZ wiring would be the cheaper way. But, I need to check with the guy about what kind of tweaking he had to do to it.

 

[southern_boy]

Both my Mustangs have Painless. I went with Painless in Red because it's original wiring was butchered beyond repair and I believe Midlife wasn't offering his services back then. Being that we installed a modern stereo, etc it was nice using Painless. I probably could have salvaged Shag's original wiring but since I had such a good time working with Painless prior to, I simply decided to go that route again. Unless you are installing components which the stock harness can't handle, I'd probably stay stock. EZ and Painless still take a lot of tweaking, wrapping, connector installing.

Very time consuming, but I admit it was probably the the most fun part of my restoration projects.

What kind of tweaking did you have to make to your Wiring harness?

 

[AzPete]

Ok, so 225 to get Midlife to do it.

165 for a 20 fuse-20 circuit kit.

From the way im looking at it it looks like the EZ wiring would be the cheaper way. But, I need to check with the guy about what kind of tweaking he had to do to it.

For thew 165, do you get all the proper plugs already installed on the harness as a plug and play type setup or do you have to cut you plugs from the old harness and splice onto the new harness? Sure is nice to lay the harness out and plug it in and be done.

 

[southern_boy]

For thew 165, do you get all the proper plugs already installed on the harness as a plug and play type setup or do you have to cut you plugs from the old harness and splice onto the new harness? Sure is nice to lay the harness out and plug it in and be done.

Idk, but I think i'd be willing to do a little extra work to save a few bucks. Btw AzPete. I know Veterans day is coming up, figured i'd tell you thanks for your time in the USAF. And thank any other vets/active service members we have on here.

 

[AzPete]

Btw AzPete. I know Veterans day is coming up, figured i'd tell you thanks for your time in the USAF. And thank any other vets/active service members we have on here.

Thank you.............