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Rear Pinion Seal

janschutz

janschutz

Corn Hauler
I about to put my highway gears back in. Since it was real greasy, I guess the rear pinion seal is toast. I have never done this, so how do I do this? Is in under the yoke or di I remove the 5 bolts around the yoke?

Rear279.jpg
 
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Ohhhh....read up on this, John. It's the big nut on the yoke that has to come off (torque to put it on is 170 ft pounds), then the yoke slides off, and the seal is right there around the pinion shaft. Not too hard up to this point. Put the new seal on, slide the yoke on, and then here's the problem: the large nut. By the way, it's 1 1/8". The nut has to go on such that the pre-load of the pinion to the ring gear is something like 13-17 inch pounds! Most books state to bring the nut back to its original position, then go anywhere from 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn beyond original. You MUST mark the position of the original nut to the pinion shaft/threads to get it back to original position.

Pete and I just did this on Mid, and we found the torque to get back to original was way less than 170 ft-pounds. We didn't use a torque wrench, but based everything on feel and markings.

Another issue for you will be to keep the yoke from turning while you're removing or installing the nut. Pete and I used the axles installed with the parking brake engaged to keep the gears from turning. From your picture, it looks like the gear set is installed in a housing jig, but there's nothing to keep the gears from moving.
 
IIRCC when I changed the seal in my 66 the pumpkin was in the car bur the brake would not hold it. I used a large pipe wrench to hold the yoke while tightening the nut.
 
find a long piece of pipe & bolt it to one side of the pinion yoke with one of the U bolts for the driveshaft. if you have an extra person available let them hold the "piped" pinion yoke while you break the nut loose..
 
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