Rear Wilwood Uograde Help

[Dyno68FB]

Alright...first off this is my first car and I do not claim to be the most knowledgable guy. That said this may be a dumb question so here goes. I put a 69 9 inch rear end under my 68fb. The guys at jegs set me up with 31 splines and posi traction auburn gear. So I had a rear end shop set up the rear. I just started putting on my 12 inch wilwoods. I torqued the bearing retainer plate to the rear housing with the T bolts n lock washers n torqued down to 40lbs. With ever one of the 8 bolts that I tightened the axels got harder and harder to turn. To the point I can barely turn the axels an inch. This does not seem right. Any advise here.

 

[Fast68back]

Any pictures of this setup?

 

[Dyno68FB]

Here is a pic showing the axel bearing and the bearing retainer clip that I referenced. These are the 12 in wilwood disk brakes with the built in drum parking brake. You can see the retainer clip is clinched down on the silver ring of the axel bearing. Should the black plastic piece of the axel bearing move with the axel as it turns or stay stationary?

 

[Dyno68FB]

Re: Rear Wilwood Upgrade Help updated

So I called wilwood today and they were no help. I took the backing plate bolts off and with each bolt the axel got easier and easier to turn. I put three bolts on one side and torqued to 30lbs and the axel is very hard to turn. Any suggestions here???

 

[jmlay]

Assuming there is no interference between the axle bearing and the housing where the bearing seats or the axle seals. I would say there is interference between the axle & the differential. Possibly the axle is too long or there is an issue in the Auburn differential.

I would first pull the axles & look at the seat & also the seals for contact. Might even pop out the seals & try inserting the axles again to see if that resolves the issue, seals are cheap. You are using the standard seals & not the aluminum inserts with o-rings?

You could also mock this up outside the housing so that you may view what is going on inside the differential when the axles are installed. I would assemble everything in the housing as it should be with everything tight then measure axle flange to axle flange, noting the dimension & if you went outside to outside or inside to inside. Next pull the axles & differential. Carefully assemble outside the housing, obviously you will need to stabilize & align the differential & axles with blocks. With this you should be able to see inside the differential when the axles are inserted to see where interference contact is being made. It could be something as simple as the axle is not beveled properly on the spline end, could be turned at a machine shop or touched up with an angle grinder. Then again it might not be something so easy.

 

[Dyno68FB]

Thanks for the responce. I thought i would post the answer if anyone is curious.

So apparently the guys at Jegs sent me a Moser bearing and lock bearing that have a total combiner length of around 1.5 inches. I have about 1 3/8 inches from the end of my housing flange and the inner seal. I basically go a new lock bearing and after 10 min at the rear ned shop to press it on and now when I torque my backing palate bolts down to 30 lbs on my Wilwoods they are now turing fine.

 

[jmlay]

Great news!