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Shifter Rod Opinions

Ponyman66

Yak, yak, yak
Any thoughts on rod size for the shifter to tranny rod for an AOD with stock shifter? I'm fabbing one up for my conversion using ball stud joints on each end (yeah, he said "ball stud"!). :roll

I don't mind going a little on the heavy duty side without going overboard, but I certainly don't want too small a diameter that would flex too much. IMHO, Ford made the original C4 shifter to trans rod WAY heavy duty! I'm considering either 5/16" or 3/8". Any first hand experiences would be greatly appreciated, but all thoughts welcomed.
 
Mike, dunno if you're asking about the ends Craig used or the ones I'm going to use. To give you a source for either, I found them on Ebay. Here's the links:

Style I'll be using:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230608506266&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Style that Craig used (though not 100% EXACTLY the same):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heim-Joints-Rod-Ends-3-8-Female-Rod-End-R-H-JAM-NUT-/250329846236?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3a48d251dc

As you'll see from the listings, both are for use with 3/8". The same seller offers both styles in various sizes.
 
Thanks! I cant see paying $100+ on the store bought rod if I can make one. What model car is your conversion going in? My car is a 1970 M code. I also have to wire in neutral lockout and the backup lights. I thought I saw a wiring diagram somewhere of how to wire it in.
 
I just went to my local hardware store and bought two female heim joints, piece of straight rod and went to town on it. This was a pretty fun part of the AOD swap project. Keep in mind that the indents of the tranny shifter and that of the floor shifter will not click into place at the same time if you use the original hole in the floor shifter lower arm. Thus I had to make a slide bracket that raised the connect point up by about 3/4". You will see pics of it in my webshots folder.

Here's a diagram for wiring:


classi1.gif
 
Mike mines going into my '66 coupe (original a 6 cyl car), along with the 5.0 it came bolted to. It's on the member's build threads.

Craig, thanks again. I saw your pics of Red's shifter when you originally posted them, looked them back up before I started my project and checked them yet again when you posted your reply. I should probably just d/l and save them! LOL You did a really sweet job with that sliding adjustment. Nice piece of engineering! :thu
 
I should have paid one of you guys to make me one. I just got my store bought one from cj pony parts. I can't believe they get $100+ for this thing. I have no welder and kind of suck at fabbing parts so I bought mine. I only paid $80 though.

6b0a787b-a6ce-149c.jpg

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
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Thanks for the links to the rod ends. I bought some 303 stainless 3/8" rod yesterday. On the wiring interface, I assume those pins 1&2 and 3&4 are both normally open?

Rabbit - got a close up of the bracketed end of the rod? Am curious how they designed the retail version.
 
Sure. Let me know if you want a different angle.

6b0a787b-2f58-f32b.jpg

6b0a787b-2f71-d77b.jpg

6b0a787b-2f89-c6bc.jpg


Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
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"RapidRabbit" said:
Sure. Let me know if you want a different angle.

6b0a787b-2f58-f32b.jpg


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Wonder why they did all that welding, they could have used a rod end to do the same thing on that end?
Jon

Sent from my chair at Starbucks using my fingers
 
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Welding is faster, cheaper.

Anyhoo $100 for that? :wtf

Maybe I should make 2-3 sets for you guys. I'll be scanning some drawings I did back in 06' later today and will post today.
 
After going thru my drawings, I realized that I made two different brackets for the floor shifter's lower arm and could not remember which one I ended up with so I jacked up Red to see. Yes similar to the one RappidRabbit is showing. I was concerned with the strength and stability of the locking bolt set up at the back of the bracket, making sure it keeps the bracket from sliding off the lower arm, so I simply ran a bolt through the original shifter hole of the lower arm, under the bracket.

Here's a pic I just took:
AODShifterBracketD.JPG



An earlier shot of same bracket back when I was fabbing the shifting rod assy:
AODShifterRodA.jpg



Here's a pic of the bracket I did not use. Maybe it was not adjustable enough? Maybe I just don't remember:
AODShifterbracketB.jpg
 
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Re: Re: Shifter Rod Opinions

"cmayna" said:
Welding is faster, cheaper.

Anyhoo $100 for that? :wtf

Maybe I should make 2-3 sets for you guys. I'll be scanning some drawings I did back in 06' later today and will post today.
Wtf is what I said when opened the box. Even at 80 I feel I got hosed. I need to get a welder.

Oh well those of that can't build, buy and pay the price I guess.

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Man, I REALLY appreciate the shared knowledge of both home engineered and the retail purchased products. Looking at the common design of both, it looks like the OEM floor shifter arm needs to be shorter to work with the AOD. The sleeve bracket makes it adjustable so you can set the arm length on the fly, correct? If the ideal arm length was known, couldnt one just drill a hole in the arm above the original hole and bolt the rod end directly to it?
 
Yes, it could possibly be drilled once that new hole location was determined and rechecked and rechecked.

Here are a couple drawings I found. It is possible that I might have tweaked the dimensions afterwards

AODdrwg1.jpg



AODdrwg2.jpg
 
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Is there any real need for the adjustable shifter arm for the AOD that B&M and Lokar sells? It allows you to clock the shifter lever arm wherever you want it. I bought one thinking I would need it for my application but am wondering if its necessary?

!Bh5e3lwBWk~$(KGrHqEOKj8EstbgUYYjBLLj1hW!QQ~~_12.JPG
 
After fitting my rod yesterday it doesnt look like it is. Flipping the selector lever up gives me all the clearance I need. Flipping the lever up doesnt reverse the pattern at that floor shifter does it?
 
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