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Simple intake gasket install questions

These are things I should already know and have been asked many times before, but I didn't find the answers before I ran out of patience searching. I am replacing my stock 2bbl intake with a new Stealth 8020 and using Fel-Pro 1250 gaskets.

1) I am holding the gasket in the correct orientation, right?
2) Should I cut out the little L-shaped bit of gasket that is partially blocking the water passage near the front of the intake? If I do not, I can imagine I'll end up with little bits of the gasket running through the cooling system.
3) Should I seal off the small water passage in the middle of the intake or use the little donut-like gasket to leave it open? Is this the cross over passage for warming the air/fuel mixture in bitterly cold climates?
4) What sort of thread sealer should I use on the manifold bolts?

Thanks!
 
"Neglected68" said:
These are things I should already know and have been asked many times before, but I didn't find the answers before I ran out of patience searching. I am replacing my stock 2bbl intake with a new Stealth 8020 and using Fel-Pro 1250 gaskets.

1) I am holding the gasket in the correct orientation, right?[nb]Yes. Those two L shaped tabs on the bottom of the gasket will engage the head gaskets to help line things up better[/nb]
2) Should I cut out the little L-shaped bit of gasket that is partially blocking the water passage near the front of the intake? If I do not, I can imagine I'll end up with little bits of the gasket running through the cooling system.[nb]I don't think the gasket would come apart but it would not hurt to trim it.[/nb]
3) Should I seal off the small water passage in the middle of the intake or use the little donut-like gasket to leave it open? Is this the cross over passage for warming the air/fuel mixture in bitterly cold climates?[nb]I would use the the one that blocks it off.[/nb]
4) What sort of thread sealer should I use on the manifold bolts?[nb]Black RTV[/nb]

Thanks!
 
I agree, mostly. I usually trim the gaskets to cut any excess material out of the water ports. Doesn't hurt.

I use a thin smear of Ultra Black around each water port to ensure a good seal. I've had a couple water port leak issues in the past, and this seems to prevent that.

I usually use The Right Stuff on the front and rear. It dries much quicker than Ultra Black, so you can fire the car up as soon as everything's put back together.

I use to leave the open gaskets on the center exhaust (not coolant) crossover ports, but I've found that using the solid gaskets to block the ports has helped hot start issues a little. The aluminum transmits enough heat as it is, so you don't really need the crossover unless you're doing a lot of cold weather startups.

A handy tip: go get yourself some long studs (or bolts, and cut the heads off) with the same threads as the intake bolts. Put one in each corner of the heads and use them as alignment pins as you drop the intake on. This will help keep you from pushing the front and rear gasket beads out of place.
 
"Starfury" said:
A handy tip: go get yourself some long studs (or bolts, and cut the heads off) with the same threads as the intake bolts. Put one in each corner of the heads and use them as alignment pins as you drop the intake on. This will help keep you from pushing the front and rear gasket beads out of place.

Very good tip. :10
These same bolt holes seem to be prone to stripping out. A stud and nut configuration would eliminate that problem.
 
"Starfury" said:
I agree, mostly. I usually trim the gaskets to cut any excess material out of the water ports. Doesn't hurt.

I use to leave the open gaskets on the center exhaust (not coolant) crossover ports, but I've found that using the solid gaskets to block the ports has helped hot start issues a little. The aluminum transmits enough heat as it is, so you don't really need the crossover unless you're doing a lot of cold weather startups.

+1 Block off the heat crossover and be careful tightening the corners. Follow the torque procedures in the manual.
 
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