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Since our resident plumber is on baby crack duty....

A

Anonymous

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I just found my water heater leaking (internally). It's 8 years old and looks like the tank bit the dust. If I can't repair it, does anyone have any suggestions for a good 40 gal / 40,000 BTU LP tank?

The one I have is a Bradford White and since this is the first water heater that has ever failed on me, I'd rather not get the same replacement.


I had thought about a tankless unit, but as bad as the job situation has been the past year, I just can't fork out the extra $$ for one.


Any ideas?
 
Thanks for that very helpful information, it's a good thing I don't give answers like that.







what a minute............
 
There are 5 homes in Kansas with indoor plumbing and I hit the lottery in that dept!
 
I don't want to talk about water heaters, my l.p. is 17 years old and never been touched, it was whatever Menards had the cheapest at the time, A.O. Smith is supposed to make a top notch heater, we have a small "instant" heater at work and it doesn't last long.
 
Mark, if you have fixed/solid plumbing running to your water heater, I would recommend going back with the same water heater.

I have replaced several and it is always a pain to redo the fixed water lines and to also redo the gas line if you go with a different unit.


Had you been draining a few gallons out of it at least once a year? Sediment can build up in them and cause them to rust out earlier than expected.
 
I'm not concerned about re-doing the copper and gas lines if needed; been there, done that. I just don't want to get another crap water heater (this one came with the house).
 
You need to do a good investigation on the payback rate of a tankless vs. your utility cost of your tank water heater & keeping that water hot ALL day long. How much LP do you waste on that?

Tankless only heats when there is water flow.


I LOVE LOVE LOVE my tankess water heater. Plus you get a tax credit for it as well.
 
Bradford White is a good water heater. Problem is you can't pick them up at your local big box stores. They are only sold through the trade vendors. Some of the names you might be more familiar with are also some of the names you should also avoid.

Are you on well water? The heavy mineral content of such water can cause greater issues with sediment build-up in the tank and such that can lead to the type of problem you have run into with the current unit.

The recommendation of an on-demand tankless system might be the best option for you. Its a bit more now but it will pay for itself over time. I'm not sure of the value of the tax break but that would go towards a quicker difference pay back as well.
 
So,

I finally found time (and money) to get a new water heater and install it. I lived with the leak as long as I could and since I'm selling the house, my good natured self couldn't leave it for the next owner. Besides, who knows how long it'll take to sell this place!

Bought a new power vented, 50 gal, 50,000 BTU PowerFlex from Lowe's (made in U.S.A.). It was a LOT less expensive than the B-W or tankless and it wasn't too bad to install. I had a little trouble with one elbow joint, but once I remembered to show some asscrack, it went smooth as silk!


 
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Really, it leaked for two years before you did anything about it? The control on that one appears to be the exact same as a state / A.O. Smith. I imagine a lot of other parts will be interchangeable.

Nice job Mark, but your unions should be on the other side of the valves. Those valves are pointless in the event of having to change the tank out again.

ohh, and You need a longer runoff tube. Hopefully your hot water heaters last longer then your motors...
 
"lethal289" said:
Really, it leaked for two years before you did anything about it? The control on that one appears to be the exact same as a state / A.O. Smith. I imagine a lot of other parts will be interchangeable.

Nice job Mark, but your unions should be on the other side of the valves. Those valves are pointless in the event of having to change the tank out again.

ohh, and You need a longer runoff tube. Hopefully your hot water heaters last longer then your motors...
Click to expand...

Hey, it was only a small leak!


I have another shutoff valve up stream too. This is how it was setup originally (by a real plumber). Apparently not a "good" one though! I'll make the overflow longer tomorrow, need to get some 3/4" pipe.
 
Nice job Mark. Here in Calif ( where some of the lucky ones have indoor water) , we have to bolt, strap, screw, or weld the damn thing to the wall in case of an earthquake. In case of one, not that they ever happen around here, just in case. We also have to rout that pop off line to the outside of the house, garage, outhouse just in case someone is standing by the hot water tank when it goes off. I guess there is less of a chance of you being outside by the outlet when it goes off.
 
Wish some of my "honey-do" stuff could be put off 2 years. I might actually get to work on the car!
 
The WH is in the basement, close to the sump pump. If the basement had 4" of water in it, it wouldn't matter! Just replaced the sump pump last year and it'll really move some water.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
but once I remembered to show some asscrack, it went smooth as silk!
Click to expand...

Found a pic of your crack...

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