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Stance help advise

Dne'

Dne'

Well-Known Member
HI!
A while back, I installed new stock springs of course everything is new regarding the suspension, including roller perches, but it sat way too high, so I cut off 3/4 of each spring which still didn't lower it enough, then I already had the shelby drop holes, so I put the UCA's in the Shelby holes and it sat great, now after several months and obviously settling, the front end sits too low(to me) and the tires rub the fenders with sharp turns and chewed the edge of the left tire. I also don't want to tear up my headers, nor my rack n pinon! 1) If I were to put the UCA's back in the stock frame holes, how much do you think it would raise it? or 2) if I had to go with new springs, what would bring it up utilizing the shelby holes?
Comments appreciated!
dne'

IMG_9107.jpg


floor jack supporting the front end to a desirable height.
IMG_9108.jpg
 
There are 1" insulators you can install to replace the thin insulators at the top of the coil where it sits against the body, this may help you and avoid the hassle of the control arm relocation or new springs. They are approx $10-20 or so.
 
You cannot determine the stance until the alignment is done and the car is driven to settle the car down into final position... as turning the wheels can lower the car even more.
 
How much more in weight do you have to install. I see the front bumper, grille and such....what about interior? This may change how it sits even more so I would wait until it is assembled and then look into it.

The drop only gives you about 1/2 inch if my memory is any good. The spacers would work but I still think to wait until the whole car is there....or weigh all the remaining parts and throw some cement blocks on the hood to get an idea...... :scar
 
Well Pete~ The interior is installed, all that's left in the front area pictured is my fiberglass bumper(weighs maybe a pound), the valance, and some paint someday! and everything is beneath the hood that's ever going to be under the hood. I just figure I'd like to correct this before paint~ I'll even take the fenders back off for spring work~ I can have the fenders off in 10 minutes!
So, if I were to "undrop" the front end, it may bring it up not a ridiculous amount!! Definitely be the cheapest easist way out except for my labor~ I have some 1" spacers, but I honestly don't like those~ just look "unstable", but I consider all ideas!!

"AzPete" said:
How much more in weight do you have to install. I see the front bumper, grille and such....what about interior? This may change how it sits even more so I would wait until it is assembled and then look into it.

The drop only gives you about 1/2 inch if my memory is any good. The spacers would work but I still think to wait until the whole car is there....or weigh all the remaining parts and throw some cement blocks on the hood to get an idea...... :scar
Click to expand...
 
Ok....so only one small cement block on the hood.....lol

I would leave the drop alone. The handling will be there then. Put in the spacers and see if that brings you to the position you want. They will stay put with no problem. If the height is ok, drive it for a time and decide if you like the ride and all and then measure for new springs from there.
 
What about rolling the front wheel lips? Also like Loren mentioned, the alignment may change / help too. Maybe it's the picture, but that front tire sure looks like it has positive camber. I like the way it looks in the top pic!
 
Thank you Silverblue, yes, the tires are sitting with some positive camber~ haven't had the front end aligned yet. Oh, so you do like the way it looks in the lowered stance?? that helps me greatly! maybe some less wider tires? I alway did like the skinny tires in the front/wide in the rear look. I may call Discount tire and see if there is a narrower tire.
thank you!!

"silverblueBP" said:
What about rolling the front wheel lips? Also like Loren mentioned, the alignment may change / help too. Maybe it's the picture, but that front tire sure looks like it has positive camber. I like the way it looks in the top pic!
Click to expand...
 
The stock replacment springs are pretty soft for any type of performance driving. I couldn't help but notice your car has some of that look :eek

The 1" drop 620's ( stands for the OD .620 not the spring rate ( 560lb ) for the spring) will get you about where your floor jack has it using the 1"
drop holes.

Putting the upper arms back in the stock holes will raise the car about 3/8"-1/2" .
 
I think what really worries me or two things~ the rack n pinion mounting thing hangs even lower than the tubular crossmember, and second are my headers(I really like my headers and don't want them crunched)! I appreciate ya'll saying it looks good n all, but I can't imagine going over speed bumps the way it's sitting right now. I'll take a photo of the rack from the front showing how it's situated(tomorrow). That thing could not take a hit~ it almost needs a skid plate(hm,not a bad idea!

******* Let's get back to the 620 springs which Opentracker so nicely brought to my attention. I bought the springs in my stang before I knew anything about my stang, so 620's maintain a stock ride height, but a firmer ride(to be honest, I can't even make the front end go down by bouncing on the radiator support) ? I won't be doing any performance driving, but I guess some decent handling on the street would be nice?? I haven't even bought a sway bar yet! Money is tight right now

The next thing that I'm extremely concerned about are the upper ball joints, the UCA's just seem to unlevel putting strain on the upper ball joints, and I can't imagine the springs compressing more putting more whatever pressure on the ball joint, but 620 springs won't cure that right? I know there's a wedge available, but I just don't want to dissassemble my ball joints! :barf How much compression can the springs take before taking a toll on the ball joint?

Believe me, there is no hurry, but don't want to paint this Mustang until all mechanical work is done.
nay nay (that's what my granddaughter calls me!)
 
The 620/560 springs are a 1" drop spring. That drop is from stock height. You won't have any ball joint issues with the stock mounting point or the 1" drop mounting point of the upper arm, no matter what spring you put in it. The angle of the ball joint needs to be changed only if your lowering the mounting point of the upper arm more than 1". Your not, so your good with any spring you want. You could put a stock replacement back in and just not cut so much off.
 
Thank you Opentracker!!

"Opentracker" said:
The 620/560 springs are a 1" drop spring. That drop is from stock height. You won't have any ball joint issues with the stock mounting point or the 1" drop mounting point of the upper arm, no matter what spring you put in it. The angle of the ball joint needs to be changed only if your lowering the mounting point of the upper arm more than 1". Your not, so your good with any spring you want. You could put a stock replacement back in and just not cut so much off.
Click to expand...
 
Put the UCAs back in the factory location. I bet it will be close to what you are looking for and it's free.
 
"Dne'" said:
HI!
A while back, I installed new stock springs of course everything is new regarding the suspension, including roller perches, but it sat way too high, so I cut off 3/4 of each spring which still didn't lower it enough, then I already had the shelby drop holes, so I put the UCA's in the Shelby holes and it sat great, now after several months and obviously settling, the front end sits too low(to me) and the tires rub the fenders with sharp turns and chewed the edge of the left tire. I also don't want to tear up my headers, nor my rack n pinon! 1) If I were to put the UCA's back in the stock frame holes, how much do you think it would raise it? or 2) if I had to go with new springs, what would bring it up utilizing the shelby holes?
Comments appreciated!
dne'

I like the stance, its what im going for. Hope mine settles close to that height.

IMG_9107.jpg


floor jack supporting the front end to a desirable height.
IMG_9108.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I've got a set of 620s that you can have for shipping cost if you're interested. I had 'em on my '66 for a couple of years, but they have very few miles on them.
Just let me know -
 
Mission accomplished!!

Gee MustangFeverrr! that's so sweet of you to offer!! However, I went ahead and took a chance on relocating the UCA's back to their stock location and I'm quite pleased with how it turned out!! I started with 23.5" and wound up at 25". The camber is now very evident as before this changeroo, it wasn't so apparent. Maybe I could run it down and have it aligned in a couple days or weeks! Thanks for everyone's help!!!
dne'

IMG_9118.jpg

The black thing is the crossmember that holds the flaming river rack. I don't particularly care for that design, but it's not coming out! Perhaps a fabricated skid plate could protect this area??
IMG_9124.jpg

Much easier with the fenders off to do spring work!
IMG_9119.jpg
 
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