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Starting it for the first time

D

Dennis66stang

Member
I have a new 302 that I dropped in the car a few weeks ago. Ive been getting everything installed on it and I am almost ready to start her up.

Besides the obvious checking of all the fluids what else should I look over?

I plan to prime the oil pump before I crank it over

I am just nervous and dont want to make any stupid mistakes.

Thanks
 
Prime the pump and check all fluids and connections. Follow break-in procedure keeping it around 2000-2500 rpms. Have a few extra set of eyes to check for leaks, smoke, etc. Keep an eye on the temp. and oil pressure. Burp the cooling system. Have fun. It's crazy how much fun and nerve racking that can be at the same time.
 
:nta I totally understand! is it going to start, what could possibly go wrong! lol my mechanic or engine builder was here when we cranked it up, only long tube headers! Darn it was loud!
Good luck!!!!
dne'
 
Yes it is nerve racking

I only have the long tube headers on right now, so I can only imagine how loud it will be

How do you burp the cooling system? I want to make sure I get all the air out.
 
I ran mine for two weeks with just headers. It's freakin' awesome. When you fill it with water squeeze the lower radiator hose. This will help remove air pockets.
 
"Dennis66stang" said:
Y
How do you burp the cooling system? I want to make sure I get all the air out.
Click to expand...

Keep the radiator cap off in the beginning.

I would also get a household electric fan and position it in front of the radiator to help keep things cool.
 
To help keep from having to do much burping of the cooling system, leave the lower rad hose connected, remove the upper from the rad, hold it close to vertical and fill the block through that. Slap the hose on and fill the rad while pumping the coolant through by squeezing the rad hoses.

I'd also have a fire extinguisher handy, but I've never needed one so far, thank god.
 
"gotstang" said:
To help keep from having to do much burping of the cooling system, leave the lower rad hose connected, remove the upper from the rad, hold it close to vertical and fill the block through that. Slap the hose on and fill the rad while pumping the coolant through by squeezing the rad hoses.

I'd also have a fire extinguisher handy, but I've never needed one so far, thank god.
Click to expand...

Cannot fill thru the top hose with the thermostat in place.....

Just do as Craig mentioned. Fill the rad. so you see some fluid just above the core. As it warms up, the fluid level will drop fast. Then fill to the level just above the core again. Keep the cap off all this time. Watch for water flow and once it stabilizes at a level just above the core, install the cap.
 
Thanks for the advice guys

My electric fan should be arriving today and it is the last piece in the puzzle. Depending on when it gets here I should be starting it tonight or Saturday. I will be sure to make a video.
 
"gotstang" said:
I'd also have a fire extinguisher handy, but I've never needed one so far, thank god.
Click to expand...

I'd also push it out of the garage before starting it up...

In addition to what has been said so far:

1) Have your timing light hooked up and dial in the timing
2) Have a camcorder on a tripod

Good luck!
-Rory
 
As long as you are firing it up outdoors you might want to use this old trick to help keep things cooler as you break it in. I fill the cooling system up with plain water and then open the drain on the radiator just a bit to allow a steady stream of water to run out. I then stick the end of my garden hose in the top of the radiator and adjust the flow to match that of the water exiting the radiator. The constant introduction of cold water keeps it from overheating just sitting there running at 2000+ rpm in the driveway.

Once you've got it all running and tuned up don't forget to drain it and put in the correct coolant mixture.
 
Have the proper screwdrivers ready to adjust the carb, correct wrenches to tighten valve covers, water pump and housing, header bolts, etc...all close by so you're not running around for them.

You can pre-fill the carb with fuel by using a small squeeze bottle and pour it into the overflow tubes.
 
Thanks everyone. Looks like at this point I will shoot for Saturday. Still haven't received the fan and the wife wants to go out tonight. The spark plug wires are on, still need to fill the trans with fluid and I should be good to go.

I just put 4 gallons of fuel in the car and the gauge still reads E.... just another thing to go back and fix
 
I will be sure to make a video.
Click to expand...


If you'll be using a stationary video camera... and walking around/leaning over the car, please wear a belt. There are a few of us here who are still trying to remove the image of AtlantaSteve's arsecrack staring us in the face during his engine startup video.
 
Wow. Many great and interesting comments here. My typical "recurring" issues over the years of being in this position (and it's never the same each time but great fun right?) are as follows:

1. If open headers- do you care if you burn whatever is under the car directly in the line of fire? You don't mind potentially burning the paint or finish coat of your recently detailed under carriage? Are the speedo cable and any insulators, wires, parking brake assemblies that might burn in the way? If so --- mount some down pipes at the collectors to route the exhaust away.

2. What is the status of the carb> is it new, has it been dialed in already as far as air/fuel mix? Of course it will still likely need adjustments but it's good to know where your baseline is before you start.

3. Double check stater wires near headers and on the driver's side check power steering lines etc touching headers. Also topside make sure all your wires are routed away from heat sources and that goes for the mechanical plastic or braided (whatever you are using) oil pressure line.

4. Timing... I always make sure the timing light is hooked up and good to guy as soon as I turn the key. If you start the engine and the headers start turning cherry red (indicating a very lean condition) why not get the timing as close to where it should be right from the start so as to avoid burning up your plug wires and everything else? So I like to get timing roughed in and then finalized after all coolant and operating temps are stabilized and within range of what I think they should be given the tune-up I want. Then I will dial in timing per specs from cam manufacturer or dyno results.

5. Carb... make sure your power valve gaskets are tight... no gas leaks after warm-up... check all linkage and make sure your throttle is adjusted to the full range of the carb's close-to-open throttle travel. Have some one hold the gas pedal to the floor and see if the throttle is truly wide open at the carb. You don't want full throttle at the carb with the gas pedal still 1/2" or more off the floor... this will damage your carb if you are a heavy foot or at least cause the linkage to break at the weakest point in due time.

Other than that... go have fun adjust the air fuel mix so that you don't burn your eyes out if the mixture is too rich and your clothes smell for days after....

Always good to have a fire extinguisher nearby or your mother-in-law for that matter... have her put the fire out.
 
Wanna bet? At least you don't wake up in the middle of the night screaming from the burned image.

Maybe your swmbo does!



:lol :lol :lol
 
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