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swappinfrom 6 to 8 - fuel system question

F

fordrule

Member
Some of you know I am wanting to swap from 6 to 8 when i get back from this golorious hole of a place..lol

I was looking at classic tube and other sites looking at either going stainless steel prebent or go with the braided hoses .

I am not really at this point looking at being period correct. pros/cons right now i am looking at going carbed but at one point i am thinking of wanting togo EFI...
 
.... and your question is?


If you're not going to be 100% original.... personally I'd steer clear of any pre-bent kits. Braided lines are nice, but you can't use them for the whole system... they can only be used in their intended locations as connections between the hard lines and moving components (calipers/rearend).

EFI is whole different animal as you'll need both a feed and return fuel line.... and typically these lines should be run up the passenger side of the car as the engine get's it fuel differently than a carbed motor.
 
Only go pre-bent if you have the whole underneath apart from the car. I'm talking axle, shocks, driveshaft, tranny, everything. Otherwise get some line and bend your own. Doing the swap you'll have everything out so if you want to go pre-bent install it before anything else. I've got an extra 8" complete rear if you need it. The only thing it needs, besides cleaning, is a couple wheel studs replaced.
 
ok so get the prebent stainless steel kit . anyone bought some good kits from a vendor...sorry more research. I could always run a return line and change the efi fuel fliter.

should i run an electric fuel pump or run the mechanical pump off the block?
 
ok so get the prebent stainless steel kit
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Okay.... so you're going to use a factory correct master cylinder with it's correct apron mounted distribution valve and a rear brake line installed restrictor fitting (not the correct name for this part, but it escapes me at the moment) and you're going to order the pre-bent kit for a dual exhaust car, which will require you to relocate the factory installed/welded bracket on the trunk's transition pan or are you going to stay with a transverse mounted muffler and keep the single exhaust rear brake line? If you decide to install rear disc brakes understand that you'll likely need to cut the pre-bent rear brake line to install an adjustable proportion valve.


I could always run a return line and change the efi fuel fliter.
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You're making this sound a lot easier than it is. If you purchase a pre-bent stainless fuel line designed for an original carb'ed motor.... the rear end of the fuel line will have a bend on it to point directly towards the gas tank mounted fuel sending unit.... you'll have to cut all of this off and install an electric fuel pump and filter... and when you cut stainless steel line.... good luck flaring a nipple onto the cut end of the pipe (stainless steel is HARD) to retain a rubber fuel line running to a high pressure electric pump. On the front end of the fuel line.... the fuel line routes to the drivers side forward fender apron. This is great for a carb'ed motor as this is where your fuel pump mounts onto the engine, but for an EFI motor this is completely backwards as your fuel line needs to come in from the passenger side to connect to the passenger side fuel rail. I suppose you could run a highly pressurized fuel line either across or under the engine and cross your fingers that it never leaks to burn your car to the ground.


should i run an electric fuel pump or run the mechanical pump off the block?
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If you're going to run EFI, you HAVE TO use an electric fuel pump... and since all electric fuel pumps are designed to "push" fuel, not "pull" it, the pump should be mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible.


I'm just trying to help you think this through.
 
thanks dave. it is helping. what would your choice be todo dave..oppinions are welcomed. I plan on doing dual exhaust..i am wanting togo granada disc brakes or at least the spindles and eventually go with the 05 gt fronts/cobra fronts. stock isnt going to be an issue. i just dont have a tube kit to bend and flare at the moment..

I have a line on a possible 97 explorer 5.0 motor but it needs to be rebuilt (140k) and it also has a 8.8 rearend with 3.73. but nothing is for sure yet. Since i am sorta on a budget i might be going with a 8in and swap the gears..I still need to buy suspension and steering for the conversion
 
i am wanting togo granada disc brakes or at least the spindles and eventually go with the 05 gt fronts/cobra fronts.
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Switching to front disc (Granada) brakes will require the granada master cylinder. The pre-bent lines may work for this master cylinder. I dunno, it's a crap shoot anytime you stray away from stock with pre-bent line kits.

i just dont have a tube kit to bend and flare at the moment.
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It's actually a double flare kit that you need and they're available nationwide at almost every DIY auto parts store as part of the usual "loan a tool" program. You can usually buy a 30' roll of 3/16ths brake line and all of your required end fittings at the same store. Learning to use the tool takes a little bit of practice, but it's not rocket science when used properly on mild steel lines.

I still need to buy suspension and steering for the conversion
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Focus on the suspension, upgrading the existing 6 cyl. steering components isn't really that much of an issue.... unless your existing 6 cyl parts are trashed.
 
the 66 has a single reservoir MC originally so pre-bent brake lines are probably not a good idea under the hood cuz you WILL want to file that MC in the round file. Mustangs Plus sells a "kit" for the Granada swap so you can use pre-bent stuff on the chassis (if you can buy it separately). The Granada spindles work well on my 67 (with the Granada tie rod ends) but I've read that the geometry isn't quite right for the 65/66 cars and cause the front end to "lift" so they might not be the best option. JonK is working on a 05 and later V6 Mustang disc caliper swap on to stock drum spindles. That would be cool. As far as the double flair, tubing cutter and bender, I have all that you can borrow anytime! As Dave has said, EFI or Carb will be different. You need to know what your plan is before you buy any "kits". I understand the concern of a nice neat plumming job. I think there is enough local help with JonK, SellerRodShop and myself we can get you going! (or stopping :lol)
 
"65coupei6" said:
I would use this: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/proclassic/intro.shtml

I used it for my whole system front to back and love it. Garner67 used the the same stuff. Plus, it is almost the same cost of any other lines you get. But, the fittings are a little more. But, you will not regret it.

As for the steering what year do you have? 65-66 steering will not work. But, 67-68 will.
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do you remember what system you used. what did it all intail? full russel kit? any hard lines?
 
Here's a link to Summit Racing selling a 20' length of the above fuel hose. Don't get me wrong, it's some really nice hose, but $110 + 10 for shipping... plus the required end fittings, which if you've ever dealt with buying Russell's fittings before it get's expensive REAL quick! You can buy a 20-30 foot roll of mild steel tubing locally, bend it to fit and also source the much cheaper brass fittings locally (Autozone, et al). If you have "money to burn" buy the Russell pieces.


http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=632093&dds=1
 
thanks dave...you are right. money is important...I am trying to do it right the first time, I am mainly trying to get it running before i start upgrading it. maybe putting her to stock ish for now would be the smarter way...well except the suspension and steering..I might get lucky on some awesome deals
 
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