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T5 conversion clutch doesnt engage help needed

G

GT350

Member
I have done the hydraulic clutch conversion T5 trans on my 67 using cnc master/slave as per james w website and a adusting rod from daze.
my problem im getting the clutch fork well over an inch but i cant engage the clutch,the bearing is touching the the fingers on the pressure plate before i press the clutch .
 
So the TO bearing is resting on the clutch before you press the pedal and the clutch does not engage when you press the pedal?
 
Are you sure it's bled properly?

If the adjusting rod is adjusted so that the t/o bearing is resting on the clutch and it's bled properly it should work.

Is the rod from the pedal to the master adjustable? You should have no more than a half inch of free travel on the pedal before it starts engaging the master.
 
"Fast68back" said:
So the TO bearing is resting on the clutch before you press the pedal and the clutch does not engage when you press the pedal?
Click to expand...
yes thats correct
 
"Sluggo" said:
Are you sure it's bled properly?

If the adjusting rod is adjusted so that the t/o bearing is resting on the clutch and it's bled properly it should work.

Is the rod from the pedal to the master adjustable? You should have no more than a half inch of free travel on the pedal before it starts engaging the master.
Click to expand...
i bled it correctly after researching all the mustang forums yes the master cyl pedal rod is adjustable,might bleed it again and adjust the master cyl rod as im getting the clutch fork to move well over an inch but the pedal is hard.javed
 
Do you have a return spring on the pedal?

I ask this because if you don't, you probably are not getting a full stroke.
Having a return spring would allow you to lengthen the rod to the master giving you more stroke.

Did you use a 4 spell bell or a t5 bell?
 
"Sluggo" said:
Do you have a return spring on the pedal?

I ask this because if you don't, you probably are not getting a full stroke.
Having a return spring would allow you to lengthen the rod to the master giving you more stroke.

Did you use a 4 spell bell or a t5 bell?
Click to expand...
yes i have a returm spring and using a T5 bellhousing
 
Sounds like you have all your bases covered.
If all your adjustments are good and it's bled properly it should function.

No loose connections sucking air?

I don't know what else to ask you or tell you. Anyone else have any thoughts?
 
"Sluggo" said:
Sounds like you have all your bases covered.
If all your adjustments are good and it's bled properly it should function.

No loose connections sucking air?

I don't know what else to ask you or tell you. Anyone else have any thoughts?
Click to expand...
no leaks, might try bleeding again and see if i can adjust the slave cyl rod some more.
 
Bleeding would be my guess as well. There are a couple folks over on the other site that had a b!tch of a time bleeding theirs, Doug Ford and Rorin'67 both played hell getting them bled, Doug more so than Rorin IIRC
 
One thing I do when bleeding out a stubborn yota at work is to turn the brake fluid bottle upside down in the reservoir.
That way you don't bleed it dry.

Gravity bleed it until you get fluid to come out.
Then find a clean clear container of some sort that you can put brake fluid in. Get a piece of vacuum hose that will fit the bleeder and submerge it in the fluid and hook the other end to the bleeder and try bleeding again.

Supposedly you can bleed it by yourself this way leaving the bleeder screw open. When you pump it pushes out the air and you will see bubbles in the container and on return it sucks up fluid as long as the hose stays submerged.

I've done this before on stubborn slave cylinders, but with someone pumping the pedal while I operate the bleeder.
 
I've been following this thread on both sites and am also leaning towards bleeding as being the problem. Are you using a CNC externally mounted slave? How long have you had it? The reason I ask is that CNC had some erroneous bleeding instructions in most of their kits, it was only right before they folded that they corrected the bleeding procedures within the instructions.

Disconnect the slave from the clutch fork. With the aide of a helper, watch the slaves piston travel outward as the pedal is slowly depressed. Stop pedal pressure as the piston is flush with the end of the cylinder. Crack the bleeder. Apply pressure to the piston with your thumb while the helper again applies pedal pressure... remember that the bleeder is still open. Close the bleeder and repeeat this process a few times.

The problem with bleeding the external slave is that the piston, in it's normal relaxed position, is partially blocking the bleeder port allowing air to remain trapped behind the piston. It's only when the piston is moved far enough forward (even with the end of the cylinder) does the trapped air escape.

This befuddled me for a couple days until CNC sent me the "revised" bleeding instructions. Once I tried the "new" bleeding method, everything worked perfectly and I had full clutch travel.

Good Luck
Dave
 
Dave i have both cnc mater and slave they are both new.I will give it another bash im now convinced i have air trapped in slave cyl and still need to play with adjustment rod will keep you guys posted.javed
 
problem solved

thanks to dave sanborn bled the system again and played about with the adjusting rod on slave/cyl required a bit of pre-load i now have a car that drives.javed
 
update on clutch problems

finally got it wrapped up ,took the trans out changed the clutch assy, the diaghram on the pressure plate was damaged never assume new parts will be ok.
Also found out that the bracket i got from daze was making the slave cyl rod bind so i lowered the bracket on the trans about an inch.
just need to button everything up next few days hopefully everything should work as its supposed to.javed
 
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