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T5 questions - The beginning of many

cmayna

cmayna

DILLIGARA?
Donator
I started this discussion with Rick (Fast68back) but thought I'd go public just to show everyone how retardedly confused I am.

I need to get over this mental block of determining which is the best bell housing set up to use for the T5 install. I'm using old school clutch linkage modified by ORP and plan to use later model pressure plate and diaphram release setup. After doing some reading, it seems like I should use later model bell housing which eliminates the spacer?

According to the T5 charts my 1352-251 tranny has a shorter shaft. Does this have a direct affect on my decision making? Do I need to change the input shaft to a longer one? No manly puns needed.......

Do I have to decided between 157 or 164t set ups?

I assume I'll need to consult with my engine builder regarding 28 vs 50 oz?
 
"cmayna" said:
I started this discussion with Rick (Fast68back) but thought I'd go public just to show everyone how retardedly confused I am.

I need to get over this mental block of determining which is the best bell housing set up to use for the T5 install. I'm using old school clutch linkage modified by ORP and plan to use later model pressure plate and diaphram release setup. After doing some reading, it seems like I should use later model bell housing which eliminates the spacer? The late model bell with the spacer puts the trans in the same positon as the early style bell, so if you have one or the other, there is no difference in using either other than the cost of the spacer

According to the T5 charts my 1352-251 tranny has a shorter shaft. Does this have a direct affect on my decision making? Do I need to change the input shaft to a longer one? No manly puns needed....... Look at it this way, if you measure a late model bell (without the spacer) look how far the shaft will engage, then add the thickness of the spacer and see how much length you lost. If you dont use the spacer, you will end up moving your shifter forward the distance of the spacer, which means hacking the shifter opening, the shifter hitting the dash, a longer reach to shift and a longer drive shaft, just to name a few..

Do I have to decided between 157 or 164t set ups?

I assume I'll need to consult with my engine builder regarding 28 vs 50 oz? Do you know which balancer he used?
Click to expand...
 
Early bell with a spacer is probably the easiest way to use the mechanical linkage, especially if you're considering a blow-proof housing. If you're not going to run a blow-proof bell, the T5 bell with the little adapter doohickey bolted to it is just as good as an early bell...so long as the price is OK. Used V8 T5 bells are downright STUPID around here, something like $150, so whatever works out better $$ wise is what I'd do.

With an early bell, you have your choice of 157t or 164t, but I don't know that they made a factory 164t bell to fit a foxbody T5. Of course with an aftermarket blowproof, you can choose whatever you want.

They never made a 50oz Cleve, so it'll be 28oz, barring the possibility that C's are something strange.
 
79-93 T5 bell housing around here are going for $75. Shag came with a 164t bell housing and flywheel. The flywheel has '65 markings on it. Go figure. Thus I do not have a 57t bell housing. I've had no intention on buying one of those steal housing for I do not foresee beating the crap out of this car.

So since I need to buy a housing, sounds like a T5 housing would be the way to go.


Rick,

The late model bell with the spacer puts the trans in the same position as the early style bell, so if you have one or the other, there is no difference in using either other than the cost of the spacer
Click to expand...


Don't you mean early model bell with the spacer puts the trans in the same position as the late style bell?

Since the early model bell housing is shorter than the late model and since you cannot bolt a T5 directly to the early bell, I believe one has no choice but to use the spacer if you were to use a early bell. Looking at the pics, early bell + spacer = length of late bell?
 
Yeah, thats what I meant, so if you look at the prices, a late model bell for $75 is cheaper than the early bell with the required spacer.
 
Ive done 3 of these, but always used a cable clutch + late bell. Its the least expensive/trouble of the methods. I bel that is correct, the spacer is necessary with the early bell to properly seat the trans. Theres a way to use mech linkage with the late bell (a small metal block and pivot is installed in the bell to make it a "push" clutch engagement, not a "pull"), if you look for it on the 'net im sure you can find it.

The early motors are 28 oz, so you need to ensure your flywheel is compatible. A 5.0 flywheel would be 50 oz and not work.
 
I don't know if they make/made a 157T flywheel for a Cleveland and the T5 Bell will not work with a 164T flywheel because the starter won't line up. If you can get a 157T flywheel for a Clevo, you won't be able to use an early large starter. Maybe a gear reduction or late model small starter. Also what size clutch? 11" won't fit the 157T flywheel.
 
Just got off the phone with Bruce of Modern Driveland who confirm basically everything you mention Michael. Yes 28oz. 157t, Yes go with late bell housing, etc.
 
"cmayna" said:
Just got off the phone with Bruce of Modern Driveland who confirm basically everything you mention Michael. Yes 28oz. 157t, Yes go with late bell housing, etc.
Click to expand...

Personally, I give Bruce's ModernDriveline a big thumbs up.

Bruce is a great guy. He's knowledgeable and he runs a good honest business. Sure you can piece together a trans conversion cheaper by yourself, but I didn't mind paying a bit more for the service and expert support for my trans conversion.
 
I'm using his clutch cable on my 66 set-up. It is working smooth and have no problems with header melt. It is a simple conversion to put in. Great product.
 
I didn't know MDL use to be in San Jose, about 4 blocks from the church that sold Shag to me. WOW.
 
NUMBER OF TEETH ON THE FLYWHEEL DEPENDS OF THE BELHOUSING YOU USE SO THE STARTER LINE UP PROPERLY.
OZ OF FLYWHEEL IS DETERMINED BY TYPE OF ENGINE YOU HAVE.
OLD BELLHOUSING ( 164th) = PUSH TYPE LEVER SETUP CLUTCH = NEED OF SPACER
NEWER BELLHOUSING ( 157th) = PULL TYPE LEVER SETUP CLUTCH = NO SPACER
IMHO
 
why cable and not hydraulic

what are differences and benefits of all 3. im also wanting to go from c4 to t5. im wanting more info on what clutch setup
 
Stock mechancal linkage can have clearance issues with some exhaust/transmission combinations. There are solutions, but it usually limits your choices.

Cable linkage has to be routed usually very close to and around the exhaust headed. Some headers provide more room, but it's usually still a tight fit. Heat from the header will melt the cables sheath if it's too close. BTW, Removing the shock towers and going with a MII style front suspension eliminates this problem. :coo

Hydraulic systems, unless pieced together and "home-built" can get pricey, but they ARE nice. Anything with fluid will eventually leak.
 
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