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T5 Swap - Shifter / Shift Lever

S

Starfury

Well-Known Member
Quick catch up: I'm collecting parts for my T5 swap, and I need to figure out what to do about the shifter and shift lever.

I already have a perfectly good Pro 5.0 shifter on the T5. I know from experience that this is an amazing shifter, and one of the three I had originally considered.

I talked to Brett at Modern Driveline today, and he keyed me into the fact that the T5 swap moves the shift lever base location forward an inch. Consequently, he recommended the MDL shifter with the 1" rear relocation built into the lever. This shifter also has a smaller neck than many other options, which helps alleviate the need to clearance the hole in the tunnel.

However, the MDL shifter does not have shift stops. This is a big no-go for me, as I fully plan on bashing this shifter around, and hopefully letting the kid use it when she gets old enough. I've heard enough horror stories about T5s with bent shift forks due to lack of shift stops.

I have no problem clearancing the hole in the tunnel a bit, but I do want to make sure I can actually reach the shifter. I have longer legs, so I don't need the shifter any farther away than it needs to be. But I don't see any Hurst shifter options that are just a bit longer than the stock replacement, just the 69-73 option that's 2" longer and 2" taller.

Anybody who has been there and can share experience, or has any good suggestions, I'm all ears.
 
Hmm. The CJ Pony Parts video shows them using the 2" longer/taller/lefter option for their conversion, along with the exact shifter I have. I may go this route unless someone has a better idea.


PS: if anyone has a Mustangs Plus remote shifter they feel like relieving themselves of, that's what I really want. Unfortunately they're not made anymore =\
 
There are basically three Hurst shift handles that look reasonably "correct" with older Mustangs with T5 conversions (in my opinion of course) and it depends on the position and "look" you're after.

In no particular order, they are 5384106, 5387436 and 5388022. All three place the ball over the tunnel within the same inch or so left to right, so that's pretty easy. The next characteristic is the height of the ball from the shifter. In order, the 4106 and 7436 are just about exactly 10" to the center of the ball, where the the 8022 is 12" on the nose. Then finally, there is the "layback" distance and here's where the three shifters differ most: The 7436 is the farthest reach from the driver seat and has a rear offset (a.k.a. layback) of 4 3/4". The 4106 is a bit closer to the driver at 5 1/2" and the 8022 is back 7 1/2".

In the "kit" conversion world, it seems that the 7436 is the "go to" shifter, but I believe CJ Pony Parts has used the 8022 in a few of their videos and it seems to have the "look" of the original Hurst shifters in the 70 Boss cars as a reference. The 4106 seems to land right in between but it probably isn't the best choice for a car with a console as the lower bend in the shifter is very close to the bottom compared to the other two and can be a potential problem where tighter clearances are a concern. The good news is that none of these are very expensive and all of them will fir the Pro 5.0 shifter mount.

Hope this helps!
 
That does help, thank you!

The 7436 won't work. Too far away.

The 4106 or 8022 are going to be what I need to look at. The 8022 sounds like it will work better, as long as it's not too tall. I don't have a console, so my only real concern is reach.

I need to sit in the car this weekend and take a couple measurements, see what I can work out.
 
FWIW, I used adjustable engine mounts which allowed some forward/backward movement in the final positioning of the engine/trans. The result was the T5 PRO 5.0 style shifter fitting PERFECTLY in the stock tunnel hole. Topped it off with a Hurst rod and white 4 speed ball.
 
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Horseplay said:
FWIW, I used adjustable engine mounts which allowed some forward/backward movement in the final positioning of the engine/trans. The result was the T5 PRO 5.0 style shifter fitting PERFECTLY in the stock tunnel hole. Topped it off with a Hurst rod and 4 white 4 speed ball.
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Hey Terry!

What Hurst stick did you end up using in your build? As I recall, it was very tidy and didn't look like it would force a long reach into the 1, 3 & 5 gates.
 
swpruett said:
Hey Terry!

What Hurst stick did you end up using in your build? As I recall, it was very tidy and didn't look like it would force a long reach into the 1, 3 & 5 gates.
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Sven,

I'll have to do the unthinkable and open up the receipts folder and see if I can find the part number. Have to resist the urge to total stuff up everytime I go in there!
 
Would be interested in the boot you used as well. It appears there are a few different options for hurst shift levers, but I'm not super thrilled with how many of them look.
 
We used a 69 boot in our 67. Looks awesome. We also used a shifter handle that looks like the stock four speed toploader handle. It has the T and everything.

Mel

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
I just sat in the car with a ruler. The hurst shift lever in the car (attached to a hurst shifter on the toploader) seems to be of very similar, if not identical dimensions to the 8022 lever. Roughly 12” tall, 7” back.

The 8022 is probably what I'll need to go with. I have to reach a bit for 3rd right now, but the reduced throw of the Pro 5.0 shifter should hopefully help reduce that.
 
Starfury said:
I just sat in the car with a ruler. The hurst shift lever in the car (attached to a hurst shifter on the toploader) seems to be of very similar, if not identical dimensions to the 8022 lever. Roughly 12” tall, 7” back.

The 8022 is probably what I'll need to go with. I have to reach a bit for 3rd right now, but the reduced throw of the Pro 5.0 shifter should hopefully help reduce that.
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Of course, now we just HAVE to see pictures when you get 'er all bolted up (hint, hint!)!!!
 
Oh for sure. But it'll have to wait until after the April Stangfix MITM.

I'm not 100% sure the headers will clear the new bellhousing and hydraulic clutch setup, and I don't have time or budget to replace those before April, so I'll leave the 4sp in for now and enjoy wringing the last bit of enjoyment out of the close ratio toploader for the trip.
 
Starfury said:
Oh for sure. But it'll have to wait until after the April Stangfix MITM.

I'm not 100% sure the headers will clear the new bellhousing and hydraulic clutch setup, and I don't have time or budget to replace those before April, so I'll leave the 4sp in for now and enjoy wringing the last bit of enjoyment out of the close ratio toploader for the trip.
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What headers do you have. I have Doug Thorley headers and I had to make a bracket to keep it away from the header.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
David67 said:
What headers do you have. I have Doug Thorley headers and I had to make a bracket to keep it away from the header.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
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I have headman try y headers and they fit. Long tubes.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
I have some crappy no name long-tube headers that came with the car and are slated for replacement after the swap. If they don't fit, I'm not super worried about it. I have my eyes on some FPA headers :)
 
Ordered a rebuild kit on Tuesday directly from Astroperformance. Their kit has all Timken bearings and seals, and they assured me that it works with the astroperformance gear set. I also ordered a billet rear countershaft bearing plate, which is supposed to help prevent case flex and subsequent trashed gears.

Also just got off the phone with Bret at Modern Driveline to finalize an order for most of the conversion supplies.
Billet Flywheel
Hardware for everything
Hurst 12x7.5x2 shift lever (matches current Hurst toploader shift lever dimensions)
5sp ball - white Hurst
Crossmember and mount
Speedo cable and gear
Reverse harness
3qts Amsoil ATF

Will use the Pro 5.0 shifter currently on the transmission.

Wallet is a bit lighter today, but I should be getting a bunch of late Christmas presents over the next couple weeks :)

Will probably be ordering the hydraulic clutch conversion components from DazeCars in a couple months.
 
Not sure what direction you intend with the hydraulic clutch but can't say enough how much I like the Tilden internal bearing I used. So much cleaner than a slave cylinder set-up and works great.
I still haven't found the receipt showing me what shifter arm I used.
 
I'd love to go the internal slave route, but it's roughly twice as much to do that. The DazeCars kit works and is $309 all said and done. I also like Daze's external slave bracket better than MDL's bracket.
 
Starfury said:
Ordered a rebuild kit on Tuesday directly from Astroperformance. Their kit has all Timken bearings and seals, and they assured me that it works with the astroperformance gear set. I also ordered a billet rear countershaft bearing plate, which is supposed to help prevent case flex and subsequent trashed gears.

Also just got off the phone with Bret at Modern Driveline to finalize an order for most of the conversion supplies.
Billet Flywheel
Hardware for everything
Hurst 12x7.5x2 shift lever (matches current Hurst toploader shift lever dimensions)
5sp ball - white Hurst
Crossmember and mount
Speedo cable and gear
Reverse harness
3qts Amsoil ATF

Will use the Pro 5.0 shifter currently on the transmission.

Wallet is a bit lighter today, but I should be getting a bunch of late Christmas presents over the next couple weeks :)

Will probably be ordering the hydraulic clutch conversion components from DazeCars in a couple months.
Click to expand...

Tad,

Dove right in there, didn't ya?! Bravo! A nice bit of business by all accounts and I think you'll be quite happy with it. The shifter description is almost surely going to be the 8022 and it should work pretty well. Keep us posted on progress and tease us with shiny part pictures when all shows up!
 
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