The Arning Drop Made Simple

[MarkStang]

This is a simplified brief pictorial showing how I did it. I used a 1/2 inch drill bit. The bit is close enough and worked snug as a bug.

The restored mounting location showing the two orriginal upper control arm holes.

Next is part of the template in place with bolt, the little hole I will drill through into my fender to begin a relocated larger hole

Next you can see the two orriginal holes and the two new pilot holes where the new location will be. The plate is removed and no longer needed.

Next you can see my 1/2 inch drill bit getting ready to enlarge the pilot holes.

This shot shows the result halfway through the drilling process.

Finally you can see the new Arning Dropped Holes below the orriginal Upper Control Arm Mounting Holes.

 

[abrahamfh]

Love the step by step format with photographs thank you for taking the time to share your process.

 

[AtlantaSteve]

Yeah I'm gonna throw in my opinion...I know the 17/32 drill bit is the "proper" size hole to drill, but mine snapped during the drill-out of the third hole (I'd got the passenger side done, was working on driver side when it broke) so I had to finish that hole and do all of the last hole with my 1/2 bit. And the bolts on the UCA slid right in with just a LITTLE bit of interference as the threads passed through the hole. I was afraid it may have galled the threads, but the nuts went on just fine. If you're afraid of galling the bolts, just wallow the hole a HAIR after the bit penetrates.

so, don't bother finding a 17/32 bit. If you have a GOOD one, use it...if not, use 1/2. It'll be fine.

Good writeup, Mark!

I plan to fill the old holes with some decorative bolts, or maybe some rubber hole plugs. Some people weld them shut, but I'm not gonna bother.

 

[abrahamfh]

Where can one looking to do this modification purchase this arning drop template?

 

[gotstang]

Where can one looking to do this modification purchase this arning drop template?

I bought mine from DazeCars, but Opentracker should have them too.

 

[abrahamfh]

I bought mine from DazeCars, but Opentracker should have them too.

Cool thank you for the where to buy info.

I figured I would just ask my arning drop questions here so it is all kind of in one place for other folks in the future.

I surfed over to http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com and found the template. My first question is, why do the arning drop? Second question is, what would be the difference between the 1" drop and the 1-1/2" drop (is it worth the extra work)?

 

[Grabber70Mach]

This might be of some help.........

http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop

1.5 will require modified upper control arms, from my understanding it would be overkill for the street.

 

[miketyler]

Pics might be misleading but arent the new holes supposed to be 1" below and 90[sup]o[/sup] to the centerlines of the two exisiting holes? Those look a little off but maybe is camera angle?

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Depending on the year being done IIRC one of them steps it toward the rear 1/8".

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Copied from dazes site:

- The physical specifications of the UCA drop for Falcons and Mustangs 1960-1966 are 1� down perpendicular to the centerline of the original UCA mounting holes and 1/8� back along the centerline of the new holes locations. The physical specifications of the UCA drop for Falcons, Cougars and Mustangs 1967-1970 are 1� down perpendicular to the centerline of the original UCA mounting. A paper template can be used to drill the new holes, however, for ease and accuracy, I recommend making or buying a guide template that can be bolted into place using the original UCA mounting holes, and then used to drill two 1/8� pilot holes. Steel templates can be purchased from my For Sale page. The main advantage of using a steel template rather than a paper template is that you have the opportunity to measure the pilot holes to ensure accuracy prior to drilling in the shock tower. When using a paper template, said pilot holes are drilled directly into the shock tower and, if their location is off, relocating them can be a challenge. The only time the pilot holes locations would be different than the above mentioned is if performing an “improved positive caster drop�. NOTE: if performing this modification on a car made before 1967 or if you are performing an improved positive caster drop, make sure the new holes are located to the rear of the car. If you bolt in a steel template backward it will cause you to drill the pilot holes towards the front of the car. Information on improving caster through the UCA drop is located below. Once the 1/8� pilot holes have been drilled, the template can be unbolted and used on the other side.