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Thoughts on firing up a rebuild?

A

Anonymous

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I had to replace the cam and lifters again (along with other parts). Thinking ahead (which is always dangerous...thinking that is), should I break it in with some low pressure springs instead of my used 370# beehives that have a seat pressure just short of 150#?

The very first time I ran the engine back in 03, it was broken in with the regular dbl springs. When I rebuilt it 2 years ago and replaced with the beehives, I used softer springs to break it in. Neither time did I have any problems with the break in and the reason for both rebuilds was a roller rocker coming off and not related to cam failure.

It's a solid cam and lifters, .555" total lift.
 
Mark

I do not know much about race engines but on the specs sheet of the rockers , pushrods ,lifters and cam ,
you should be able to find out what the " max load" is permitted or tolerated.?

I think you also should pay attention to the oil you will use the first time. :confu
 
I would inquire with the cam supplier. Just keep the PT out of site during break in... As mentioned....I feel the choice of lubrication will have a big effect.
 
Lube is no problem, Kat told me what to buy.


Seriously, I normally use reg 30 wt dino oil with Redline break-in additive. I've never had a breakin problem doing it that way. I'm just thinking lazily today and need some harsh criticism to knock me out of it.
 
I also realized this afternoon that the tool I used for R&Ring the valve springs with the heads on will not work on a shaft rocker setup....Doh. Now I either need to make or buy another f'n tool.

Damn race engines. I don't know if a PT is worth all this effort.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
and need some harsh criticism to knock me out of it.

What else is there to do in the middle of bumf*** Kansas when it is 3 degrees out? Break it in with the soft springs for piece of mind IMO. Breaking down the heads after break-in will give you a chance to eyeball everything too so you can make sure everything in your new valvetrain set up is kosher with each other.
 
Everycam maker I've seen reccomends break in springs for flat tappets. I'd do it, especially with .550 lift and those spring specs.
 
As should be, I'll use the softer springs again. Rare sense prevails.

On the plus side, if I used the normal springs and wiped the cam, you would finally be rid of me and my rambling!


Thanks to all.
 
I'd also wait until you have an oil pan on it before breaking it in............... :char :thu :yah
 
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