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Timing chain/cover /slinger question

Sluggo

Sluggo

Active Member
When I had the timing cover off the mach after I got it home, I noticed some witness marks on the the back of the cover where it looked like the slinger was hitting the cover. I left it out when it went back together. (never heard it run prior...had broken dizzy roll pin)

The engine is a 427 stroker built by PAW back in 99/00. Very few miles were put on it before the dizzy broke and it sat on blocks until I got it in 07 and I did not mess with it until 4/08. I may have put 300 miles on it since. To make 427 cubes they used a 400M crank and machined it to take a double roller chain and a 50oz imbalance damper and flywheel.

When the engine gets warm there is a very light knock coming from the balancer. Balancer is a brand new Ford racing unit. I can tighten the bolt and it seems to quiet down for about 50 miles or so.

I think the balancer bolt is bottoming on the crank snout just an RCH prior to contacting the balancer.

Has anyone else had this problem. I thought with a double roller chain you were supposed to ditch the slinger.....
 
i don't have the problem, but i did ditch the slinger and am running a double roller timing chain.

with an engine running it's a bit hard to tell where a noise is coming from.
what about getting it warmed up, then turning the motor by hand without starting it using a socket/ratchet on the crank snout bolt?
seems like you could hear and/or feel if it was coming from that area that way.
 
Have you pulled the balancer to check for any unusual wear spots? Check the crank key for wear as well, as I would expect it to wear if the balancer bolt bottoms too early. Was crankshaft end play checked when the motor was built?

FWIW I used the oil slinger with my double roller. I did have major issues with the fuel pump eccentric and the double roller. It ended up acting as a hole saw on my timing cover....not a pretty sight!
 
I ditched the slinger when I went from the gear drive to the rollerized double roller chain. Mainly because it was mangled from the gear drive grenading...

Isn't there a big washer on that crank/balancer bolt? Could you add a lock washer on there to help stop it from bottoming out - or would you be concerned about the imbalance of the lock washer - though it may be very negligible?
 
"70_Fastback" said:
I ditched the slinger when I went from the gear drive to the rollerized double roller chain. Mainly because it was mangled from the gear drive grenading...

Isn't there a big washer on that crank/balancer bolt? Could you add a lock washer on there to help stop it from bottoming out - or would you be concerned about the imbalance of the lock washer - though it may be very negligible?
Click to expand...

+1

Use another washer.
 
I took it apart today and found the crank snout was sticking about 1/16th past the balancer. Witness marks (or lack thereof) confirmed my suspicion. The bolt and washer were contacting the crank snout. Once warmed up it knocked a little bit. Not nothing insane but enough to keep me from driving it.

I also devised a solution. I rounded up an old aluminum yota balancer, cut the end off, bored it out to fit the crank, shaved the thickness down to 1/4 inch and slammed it back together.
Now the balancer is 3/16ths of an inch past the end of the crank snout and the bolt/washer contact the balancer with no danger of bottoming on the snout.

The engine was balanced with a 5.0 50oz flywheel and balancer in place. Maybe the 5.0 balance is a tiny bit shallower than the 351 balancer????

This fixed several problems. The water pump pulley was crazy close to the lower pulley, the alternator belt was misaligned, and of course the noise.

A stop gap no doubt. I will address the situation further next time I have the front cover off.
 
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