Uh inner bearings?

[Kats66Pny]

Ok I'm not sure I'm doing this right. The directions that came with the kit are crappy and the pictures are black so hard to see them.

The kit comes with new inner and outer bearings obviously. The ones I have look like this, with 2 pieces.

Do you use both of them or just the one that has little wheels in it? :shrug

and yes, I have high temp bearing grease for greasing them. :thu

 

[AzPete]

Both sections. You drive out the old race (the smooth piece) from the hub if there, then tap the new ones in. I use a brass drift for install. DO NOT SCRATCH THE SMOOTH ANGLED AREA............ Look at your old drums.

 

[Kats66Pny]

These are for disc swap I'm doing. I don't recall my old drums having anything like that smooth piece.

 

[1497]

the one on your old drum brakes is actually in the hub. drive the new race into the back of your new brake rotor

 

[Kats66Pny]

Rotor with the smooth part in it. You can't make it go any farther in.

Rotor w/the smooth part and the other piece..

but if you have both those pieces in there, then this red grease seal thing doesn't have room to fit properly. :shrug

BUT if you leave out the smooth part, the other part with the wheels fits nicely inside the rotor and there is room for the seal to properly fit down on the rotor.

 

[B67FSTB]

Like AZPETE said.

Replace the race , lubricate the bearing and lay it on the race . Then place the seal !!!
read this article :
http://moparmuscle.automotive.com/30348 ... index.html
or this
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techartic ... ewall.html

 

[Kats66Pny]

Ok got it figured out. art

Another question.. how tight it the spindle nut suppose to be? Is the rotor suppose to be able to rotate freely, have little to no resistance? Or tight? The directions I have don't say anything about that stuff.

 

[Mach1Rider]

I tighten the nut by hand as I roll the disc to center the bearing in the races.
it should be snug but not tightened down with a wrench.
align the cotterpin cap and install the cotter pin and bend back the ends.
Tap on dust cover.

 

[AzPete]

I normally tighten it a bit with a wrench to set the new bearings always rotating the wheel slowly. Then back of and set snug, with no wiggle/play sideways or up and down. As for tightness, I generally do the final with a tire on it, snugging the axle nut while spinning the wheel. Tight is when one medium hard spin of the tire results in about 1 revolution after you release the tire. Also, check for no play after a 100 miles or so.

You also compensate a bit if there is some brake drag.

There most likely is a way in a book somewhere but I have done them this way since ...... well, for a long time. lol

 

[blue65coupe]

I'm with Pete. I think the normal procedure is to tighten to 25 ft/lbs, back off a half turn and retorque to about 20. It's been a while so CHECK THIS INFO FIRST.

 

[crustycurmudgeon]

I'm with Pete. I think the normal procedure is to tighten to 25 ft/lbs, back off a half turn and retorque to about 20. It's been a while so CHECK THIS INFO FIRST.

YIKES! I think you mean INCH pounds.

Frank

 

[AzPete]

This is what I found on line....
" tighten to 17 to 25 ft lbs to seat the bearing, back off nut 1/2 turn and retighten to 10 to 15 ft lbs"

 

[66gt350]

I believe that you preload the bearing to about 25 ft-lb of torque. Then back off the nut about a half turn, then retorque to about 10-15 inch-lbs of torque.

Before getting an inch-lb torque wrench, I would do the preload and back off the nut. Then slowly tighten the nut while spinning the wheel, so that the wheel spins freely and no side-to-side play.

 

[Anonymous]

10-15 inch pounds is like breathing on it.

 

[Kats66Pny]

Luckily I have a torque wrench that we bought not long ago. :thu

 

[66gt350]

10-15 inch pounds is like breathing on it.

That is from a Ford Service Manual.

 

[Midlife]

My 66 FSM states:
While rotating the wheel, hub and drum or rotor assembly, torque the adjusting nut to 17-25 ft-lbs to seat the bearings (Fig. 3).
Locate the nut lock on the adjusting nut so that the castellations on the lock are aligned with the cotter pin hole in the spindle.
Back off both the adjusting nut and the nut lock together until the next castellation on the nut lock aligns with the cotter pin hole in the spindle.
Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends back.

 

[66gt350]

oooppppsss....I was looking at the wrong manual. I guess I need more :Katcof

Rotate wheel and drum while torquing the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 17 to 25 foot pounds of torque. Back off adjusting nut 1/2 turn and retighten to 10 to 15 inch pounds while rotating drum and wheel. This is from a 1967 Ford Car Service Specifications manual. But it should be the same.

 

[crustycurmudgeon]

My 66 FSM states:
While rotating the wheel, hub and drum or rotor assembly, torque the adjusting nut to 17-25 ft-lbs to seat the bearings (Fig. 3).
Locate the nut lock on the adjusting nut so that the castellations on the lock are aligned with the cotter pin hole in the spindle.
Back off both the adjusting nut and the nut lock together until the next castellation on the nut lock aligns with the cotter pin hole in the spindle.
Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends back.

So if you're torquing to 17-25 ft-lbs and then backing off one castellation, you're ending up with considerably less than 17-25 ft-lbs. Probably about 10-15 inch pounds.

Frank