SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
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whats wrong in this picture??
- Thread starter SELLERSRODSHOP
- Start date
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
are those clown car doors!?! so they can go thru faster :lol
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
I like those F1's too, might have drop by and check that out in person!
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
better hurry, it'll be going home tomorrow. it was just in for a few days to suicide the doors. always meant to get a pic of one half done with a door swinging each way & finally remembered to take one. i did a pretty good photo documentation of the job if anyone is interested in seeing how this is done.
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
yeah, that would be cool!
AtlantaSteve
Active Member
"tarafied1" said:
+100
Sluggo
Active Member
:wtf is with the tease? You know we want to see it. :weas"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
Bring it.
Jonk67
Well-Known Member
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Dude, that's cold.
Fast68back
Guest
Lets see the photo's!!! Love the truck, the truck next to my car in my sig pic had a flip nose, not a huge fan of it...
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
they weren't called F100's until 53, I can't tell what year that one is with the FG nose but it's a 48-52 F1 body style. Okay I'm done with the education. I only know this because I have wanted one since I was about 11!!!"fordrule" said:
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
"tarafied1" said:
there is a guy selling two of them down here for $1800. wanna split em'?? :coo
i'll get some pics of the install up in a bit. :vic
Fast68back
Guest
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
Dont tempt me, I SOOO want one...
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
my wife will KILL me if I bring home anything else!!! But when/if I build a rat rod, it will probably be an F1
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
"Fast68back" said:
soon as i get time i'm going to look at the one YOU will want. 55 f-100 body sitting on a boxed frame with a plymouth IFS up front & a 9" out back sitting on leafs moved under the rails for tire clearance. thinking about buying it, doing the metal work & flipping it quick for a little profit. :$$$
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
here's the lowdown on the doors. the pics kinda flip from side to side as i get focused on what i'm doing & forget to take pics. i try to make up when i'm doing the other side, so they flip sides at times....
first, start by trying to align the doors as best you can. the stock hinges are non adjustable & have to be persuaded with a 2x4 & a torch. then remove all the stock hardware from the "B" pillar jamb (latch plate & dovetails)
take your new hinges & remove the arms & pins leaving the boxes. set these up on a piece of 3/8" threaded rod & space them according shape of the jamb (no pic, i forgot) space them apart at least 18", but further is possible as long as they are level (you don't want the door to swing down when it opens, you want it to swing level) hold the assembly up to the jamb & mark the jamb for cutting. you want the hinge pin as close as possible towards the outside of the jamb near the outer body skin. this provides clearance for the door to swing out without hitting the body. cut the holes & test fit the box assembly from the front. when the boxes slide into the holes with no binding, put the assembly inside the vehicle & slide them thru from the rear (easier said than done on some cars) & tack weld in place.
take out the threaded rod, which besides spacing the boxes, also assures that the hinge pins rotate on the same axis & don't bind, & reattach the hinge arms. clamp a piece of tubing or bar stock between the arms & swing them in & out to double check for binding. if all goes well, you can remove the arms & finish weld the boxes.
these doors were much thicker at the top compared to the bottom, so when i cut the door for the hinge pockets, the hinges were so deep into the doors that i had clearance issues with the glass channels on the top hinges
i ended up having to cut the hinge arms & "step" them towards the inner door skin. you can do whatever you need to when fitting the arms, as long as the pins pivot on the same axis
after that, weld in the hinge arm pockets in the door, attach the hinges & then you can remove the front hinges so the door now swings from the rear.
next step is to install the new latch up front. the latches are usually put in the door with the pins in the jamb, but this owner wanted the opposite. this way is a little harderas you are dealing with much tighter clearances ( i had some as tight as 1/16" to deal with) the little assembly below the latch is a safety pin designed for suicide doors. its essentially a deadbolt for the door.
all thats left is filling in all the old holes with patch panels ( the most time consuming part of the job)
first, start by trying to align the doors as best you can. the stock hinges are non adjustable & have to be persuaded with a 2x4 & a torch. then remove all the stock hardware from the "B" pillar jamb (latch plate & dovetails)
take your new hinges & remove the arms & pins leaving the boxes. set these up on a piece of 3/8" threaded rod & space them according shape of the jamb (no pic, i forgot) space them apart at least 18", but further is possible as long as they are level (you don't want the door to swing down when it opens, you want it to swing level) hold the assembly up to the jamb & mark the jamb for cutting. you want the hinge pin as close as possible towards the outside of the jamb near the outer body skin. this provides clearance for the door to swing out without hitting the body. cut the holes & test fit the box assembly from the front. when the boxes slide into the holes with no binding, put the assembly inside the vehicle & slide them thru from the rear (easier said than done on some cars) & tack weld in place.
take out the threaded rod, which besides spacing the boxes, also assures that the hinge pins rotate on the same axis & don't bind, & reattach the hinge arms. clamp a piece of tubing or bar stock between the arms & swing them in & out to double check for binding. if all goes well, you can remove the arms & finish weld the boxes.
these doors were much thicker at the top compared to the bottom, so when i cut the door for the hinge pockets, the hinges were so deep into the doors that i had clearance issues with the glass channels on the top hinges
i ended up having to cut the hinge arms & "step" them towards the inner door skin. you can do whatever you need to when fitting the arms, as long as the pins pivot on the same axis
after that, weld in the hinge arm pockets in the door, attach the hinges & then you can remove the front hinges so the door now swings from the rear.
next step is to install the new latch up front. the latches are usually put in the door with the pins in the jamb, but this owner wanted the opposite. this way is a little harderas you are dealing with much tighter clearances ( i had some as tight as 1/16" to deal with) the little assembly below the latch is a safety pin designed for suicide doors. its essentially a deadbolt for the door.
all thats left is filling in all the old holes with patch panels ( the most time consuming part of the job)
Last edited by a moderator:
Fast68back
Guest
You make it seem easy Steve!
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
yeah, I can only dream of doing this and you work the magic for real!"Fast68back" said:
A
Anonymous
Guest
That's some cool work Steve! Maybe this will get Jeremy to do suicides on his Rat.