I moved my battery to the trunk. I want to hide my engine compartment wiring under the fender and come into the engine compartment where the battery was next to the alternator. Instead of locating the solenoid in the trunk next to the battery would it be best to locate it up front in the engine compartment (running proper gauge wire of course). This way I would only have to protect 1 hot wire from the front of the car to the trunk. what do ya'll think?
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Wiring battery in trunk
- Thread starter Triton
- Start date
Fast68back
Guest
JonK67 just did this, check the electric board.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
When relocating a battery into the trunk , you have to secure your alternator/battery cable with a big fuse at the ( + ) pole of the battery.
To avoid that the cable catches fire when its grounded due to a accident or something else. :confu
To avoid that the cable catches fire when its grounded due to a accident or something else. :confu
Jonk67
Well-Known Member
Yes, I've got a few posts on trunk battery, here's one http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/inde ... 806.0.html just search jonk67 in electircal board for the others.
Lots of both sides on this issue, in researching it seemed that finding a fuse large enough not to blow when you cranked the starter and it draws XXXamps to not blow the fuse and yet know that if the cable was grounded it would blow the fuse that will withstand XXXamps before tripping was the tricky part for most. I decided not to reinvent the wheel and went with the MAD Electric diagram posted in my links and had to run one extra 8ga. wire with a 120A circuit breaker to match my 100A alt. This way it is the only 'live' wire when driving and only has a 20A cushion before tripping and is a lot less amps than the starter draw from what I recall.
Jon
Lots of both sides on this issue, in researching it seemed that finding a fuse large enough not to blow when you cranked the starter and it draws XXXamps to not blow the fuse and yet know that if the cable was grounded it would blow the fuse that will withstand XXXamps before tripping was the tricky part for most. I decided not to reinvent the wheel and went with the MAD Electric diagram posted in my links and had to run one extra 8ga. wire with a 120A circuit breaker to match my 100A alt. This way it is the only 'live' wire when driving and only has a 20A cushion before tripping and is a lot less amps than the starter draw from what I recall.
Jon
Jonk67
Well-Known Member
Not sure which wire and which relay are you referring to? What is the wiring setup > gauge and what is it powering?
Do you have a diagram you are following you can post similar to this so we know what you're doing?
Jon
Do you have a diagram you are following you can post similar to this so we know what you're doing?
Jon
Jonk67
Well-Known Member
Ok, yes, see the 'RED 8ga. Tuff Wire' at the top of the diagram that is fused (12ga. fueable link in pic but I'm going to use a 120A circuit breaker for 100A alt.), that will go forward to a junction block so you can have hot power at the front for the Alt. and accessories to get power from. This is what the junction block can look like, lots of options on what style block you can use - one post, multiple posts, stereo splitter block, etc.
The 8ga. at the bottom of this pic 'To rear' is where that wire goes to. I ran the 8 ga. to my junction block and right back out 8ga. to the alt. + post, then ran ~14ga. off the junction block to the other access. > headlight relays, etc.
Jon
The 8ga. at the bottom of this pic 'To rear' is where that wire goes to. I ran the 8 ga. to my junction block and right back out 8ga. to the alt. + post, then ran ~14ga. off the junction block to the other access. > headlight relays, etc.
Jon
Jonk67
Well-Known Member
Is this for an amp gauge? I only have an alt. gauge in my '67 with charge/discharge so no separate wire like the '65/'66? The main 8ga. wire will come from the rear sol. to the junction then go from the junction to the '+' post on the alt. to allow the alt. to recharge the batt. so I would imagine if you need to monitor how much the alt. is putting our I guess at any point in that wire would be fine > off the '+' alt. post or junction block? Anyone see another better option?
Jon
Jon