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1967 fastback 351w Alternator!!!

Discussion in 'General Mustang Discussion' started by 67stang, Jun 20, 2018.

  1. 67stang

    67stang Member

    So the bad news first my Alternator took a shit. Good news I hated that ugly alternator! Any recommendations?

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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  2. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

  3. 67stang

    67stang Member

    What’s the major difference between one Wire And normal?


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  4. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    Here is the best "read" you will find on the subject. MAD (Mark) is a hell of a source for electrical knowledge as it pertains to automotive needs. Just be ready to spend literally an hour or more on the phone if you manage to reach him!

    He is very old school so is not a fan of 1 wire set-ups, in general. That doesn't mean they do not work because given the popularity of them its obvious that used properly they work just fine. If wired correctly (and that means modifying your stock harness a minor bit) all is good. If you want to stay stock they are plenty of options for alternators out there as well from all the major suppliers. I would certainly suggest upgrading to something with higher output potential than something designed to support the requirements of a car built in 1967. Better lighting, more powerful stereos, electric cooling fans and the list goes on for reasons a car today requires greater electrical supply.

    http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml
     
  5. B67FSTB

    B67FSTB The NorCal dude from Belgium

    As Terry said . One wire or external regulator , it will work either very good but if you have alter your lightning to halogen , putting in an electrical fan and so on , you just need a more powerful alternator.
    I stayed with the external regulator but took an electronic one which regulate the voltage better.
     
  6. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Sorry to sound dumb. But if I went to a one wire Alternator. Can I simply just remover the external regulator. And just hook up the One wire to the positive side of the solenoid?

    Should I get 140 amp?


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  7. Grabber70Mach

    Grabber70Mach Well-Known Member

    Get the Ford 3G alternator that is available at any parts store. Do the conversion available thru PA performance.
    http://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/
    Whichever power wire kit you need:
    http://www.paperformance.com/other-products/power-wire-kits/
    Source your alternator from a 94-95 mustang 5.0 if I remember correctly from NAPA or any local parts store. You'll always be able to source one easily when/if it goes bad.

    Here's some wiring options.

    _____________________________
    Never argue with a Moron. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

    If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2018
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  8. 67stang

    67stang Member

    So if I use exactly the same wire setup 3 wire, it’s hard d to find a 3 wire chrome (same physical specs)?? And should I get a 140-150amp?


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  9. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    Are you sorry you asked yet? LOL Things are not that complicated. You can simply get a stock replacement and go about your day. You can do the 3G thing and have a greatly enhanced system with the stock wiring and enjoy life . Same with the 1 wire. And yes, lose the regulator and connect it at the same positive post on the regulator where your car seeks its 12+ power supply.

    To do it (1 wire)"better", run a larger gauge wire into the cabin to deliver the power to the fuse box or power junction. Not necessary but long term it helps especially as you connect more and more high draw items (lights, fans, etc.). I run to a "power post" and junction of there to a main fuse panel and also as the power source side of relays to drive the headlights and electric fan. The longer a wire runs the more it benefits from being heavier gauge.

    Check locally but just about everyone carries a 1 wire alt as stock these days. Autozone, O'Reily's, etc. etc. No worries about availability anymore. They have become very common due to their simplicity.
     
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  10. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    You don't have to get a bazillion amp unit. Figure out what YOUR car needs and get something adequate. What does your electric fan pull when running? Don't worry about start-up draw that is misleading. How about your lights? Stereo? For everything except a car with a stupid powerful stereo set-up I think 100 amp is more than enough.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2018
  11. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Thank you everyone!! After reviewing the pros and cons I will go with a 100amp one wire. I let you guys know how it turns out.


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  12. 67stang

    67stang Member

    One last question. If I were to ever go to an EPAS steering system, would I need a bigger alternator then a 100amp?


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  13. Boom

    Boom Active Member


    Yes, most likely. As mentioned above, look at the amperage draw of all your current and future mods to make sure your alternator can handle the draw.

    I recently picked up one of the "one wire" alternators from a local auto store for my daily. It went right in and works, not much else to say, its 100 amp. Not a fan of it being chrome, but thats personal preference. Order them online and pick up in the store if you can, online usually has a coupon code 15-25% off.

    [​IMG]20180601_083937 by Brett, on Flickr
     
  14. KBMWRS

    KBMWRS What did the moron say today?

    I'm no ace mechanic but I think you need to tighten up that belt.:p:D
     
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  15. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    I have no idea what level of power an electric steering assist motor would draw. I'm sure that's a spec that the source can provide. Again, unless you have some really huge draw stuff in the car, 100 amps is fairly substantial.
     
  16. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Okay. FYI: 100amps should be more then plenty. :). I think within a year I will go with the electric steering.


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  17. Mach1 Driver

    Mach1 Driver Active Member

    You can see the actual amp draw for a stock 69 in Electrical Board, A REAL Schematic in the Excel file. Its about 93 amps with everything on (which is unreasonable), but would run about 50 amps on a rainy night. If I remember correctly that would include the various lights, heater, radio and wipers.
     
  18. 67stang

    67stang Member

    If I go direct to the battery side of the solinoid do I need a fuse? If so what size? If I’m running a 100 amp alt?


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  19. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Well it looks and works fantastic!! I didn’t put a fuse in just ran an 8 gauge wire straight to the positive side of the solenoid. [​IMG]


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    Last edited: Jun 24, 2018
  20. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    It does look good. No need for a fuse.

    EDIT: If you wanted to add one I think most guys use something in the 200 amp range. Usually this is only done if the battery is in the trunk and the wire runs through the cabin. More of a "if it somehow gets damaged and a short develops" to prevent a fire. With your set-up I don't see a need.
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2018

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