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1967 Mustang, how to get more negative camber?

D

dodgestang

Active Member
So I have all new suspension on my 1967. I installed 68 suspension that I source from John (opentracker) several years ago. Upper arms, roller perches, moog lower arms, SorT adjustable strut rods, big block springs, kyb shocks 1 1/8 sway bar. I did the shelby drop while I was in there.

When I got the aligned couldn't get the car past 0 camber.

Because of this I am unhappy with my 245 45 17 fitment. They would be PERFECT if I could get -1 camber. Car has wheel well molding that I kept in place but rolled it all with my fender roller.

On dips it will sometimes reach out and grab the driver side fender at the 10 o'clock position and bend the trim I rolled up down and out.

At first I thought maybe the tech used shims but when I was in there swapping brakes I checked it out...nope no shims. I also jacked it up and confirmed the lower eccentric bolt is at max adjustment.

I should be able to get huge amounts of negative camber with this setup so I don't understand what the problem is. Is there a length difference between 67 and 68 upper arms that might be the culprit? What options do I have? Do they make an eccentric bolt with a slightly smaller 'circle' on it to get more adjustment? Can I take out my eccentric bolt and shave them down on the grinder to cheat another degree or maybe even 2 of adjustment? If so...how much material would I need to take out? Would popping out the bolt, shaving it, then reinstalling it and pushing out the lower arm a little more through the adjustment so out of whack I would need to do it all over again or can I plug and play?
 
Why not add some shims to the UCA's in addition to your eccentric bolt settings? Adding shims equally only adjusts camber. Hmmm...adding shims only adds to the camber, not take it away. Well, I tried.

It is desirable for driving to have a slight positive camber.
 
There is no difference in the arm length between 67-73, they are all the same.

I can send you one of our camber kits, that might move the lower arm farther outward.

You can remove the saddle of the lower arm mounting point and re-weld it farther out ( lot's of work there ) and make the slot longer.

You could put on a set of Global West upper arms but don't install the 3/8" spacer. The GW arms are 3/4" shorter than the stock arms.

The cars are all different. I have herd of people having trouble getting the camber they want.
 
Good gawd that all sounds like a headache. :bomb

Not sure I understand what the camber plates you sell do?

I take out the old eccetric bolt and just pop what ever spacer I want in its place and through bolt it?
Aside from gaining the benefit of it not slipping in heavy track use....how is that much different than reliefing the stock adjuster? You know....knocking a couple millimeters of them so I can rotate it more?

Pre alignment and disc brake photo
DSC09930.JPG
 
have you looked at the bolt/eccentric since the alignment to see where it is clocked? i would be curious to see a pic like the one you posted above of where its at now. i havent been happy with the last two alignments i had done, or the crap they tried to pull on me while it was there. many of these places now have kids working there & i've seen laziness prevail over doing the job correctly numerous times. may not be your case, just sayin...

i just installed the exact same parts, minus the strut rods on my car. only other difference is you have bb springs & mine are cut 720's (mines lowered a ton) looks like i will have plenty of adjustment both ways as far as camber goes. good luck!
 
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
have you looked at the bolt/eccentric since the alignment to see where it is clocked?
Click to expand...

Yeah....first thing I did when I got it home and was told all they could get was zero..I put it up on the lift and inspected it. Went so far as to loosen it up and try to get more out of it but it was all the way over.
 
Maybe I am thinking about this the wrong way/asking the wrong question.

What is the estimatated adjustment that would be needed in the lower eccentric to move the lower control arm enough for 1 degree change? It doesn't seem like a lot.

I have it on the lift and will look at it tomorrow...maybe my issue isn't the eccentric so much as the slot/hole is goes in might need to be elongated by 'x' millimeters to allow it to push out slightly more.
 
"dodgestang" said:
I think one of us is confusing caster and camber.
Click to expand...

Camber is the tilt of the tire when looking from the front. Typically, it is measured in degrees (well, a quarter or third of a degree), but also in fractions of an inch. You can add or subtract camber by adjusting the shims equally in both UCA bolts; the caster is adjusted by adding or subtracting to one bolt.

To get negative camber, you want to pull the top of the wheel/tire towards the center of the car. With the UCA shims, that means removing the shims. Since you don't have shims, that won't help. Capice?
 
This job does not use spacers.....it has adjustable lower arms...... That should mean the top is pulled all the way in already and the lower is all the way out. I think.....
 
Here is a photo of the kit. It has 9 positions to choose from for camber adjustment. The #5 slot may or may not move the arm over more. I think it would since it does take the bolt right to the edge of the slot. We use them on the track to keep the camber from changing. Those eccentrics are know for moving under side loads.

I saw Shaun's reply on the other forum and I agree with him. If you go with another upper arm, I think his arms would work better than the GW uppers because they are easier to work with and are adjustable. I bet he would be able to make a custom set for you if you need it.

lowerarmkit4.JPG
 
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