65 FB Scratch Build

[gtscode]

Just found this thread right now!! Damn man great fab work! Very impressive!

 

[65-408]

Designed up my own version of the rally pac to accept autometer 2 1/16 gauges (tach and oil pressure) on SolidWorks:

Then had it printed by the new 3D Plastic printing machine that we got at work, came out great:

Also got te MSD box installed in the glove box next to the fuse panel.

I am bringing the wires thru the firewall under the passenders fender and will poke them into the engine compartment near the bottom of the battery tray. all wires will go in there, then directly over to the engine in order to clean up the engine compartment.

Wires will go thru this cool firewall grommet made by Seals it:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Bran ... toview=SKU

 

[65-408]

Here is the back of the panel that holds the fuse panel and MSD box. I found these small ISO Micro Relays (rated for 30A) and mouted them all together on this panel (Horn, Start, Headlights, and Switched Accessories). The resistor (1 ohm, 50W) is for the fan low speed. I added it because I have the original 2 speed switch (three wire) and a 3 speed (2 wire) fan motor. The fan will be 2 speeds (full and about half)...

Here is how the wires go thru the firewall on the inside (missing the grommet):

Routing everything to the devices:

And here is where the engine harness will enter to go to the engine stuff, fan, and over and down to the trans:

And I also got the Instrument cluster bezel and lens changed, I was worried that the lettering was faded, but it turned out to be the old lens was just very yellowed. This thing looks like brand new, couldn't be happier (hopefully the gauges actually work)...

 

[tarafied1]

this car is quite cool, nice work!!!

 

[Fast68back]

Very impressive work! I'm shocked you aren't updating the dash to the 5 gauge cluster.

 

[65-408]

I actually like the look of the sweep, probably because it is so different than todays cars...

 

[65-408]

Got Helicoils into the housing:

And made a few mods to the gauges to get them to fit. Cut off the studs, threaded on a stand off (mounting screw will go into the stand off to retain the gauge into the housing) and soldered on wire extensions...

 

[Fast68back]

this is gonna look pretty slick!

 

[65-408]

here is how the wires exit the housing and how the clamp mounts:

And mounted with the new gauge bezel. I like it, I think the gauges are a good match to the factory cluster:

 

[gtscode]

65 FB Scratch Build

Love the seep speedo very retro and not something you see often.

 

[65-408]

Got the back of the gauge cluster wired:

I replaced the constant voltage unit with a modern solid state version ($2 5V, 1A, Voltage Regulator from radio shack):

I also decided on the connectors that I will use throughout the car. I will put a 10 pin here at the harness so that the whole thing can be disconnected and removed. The connectors are made by APEX and are the 2.8 series. The are really easy to assemble and are sealed really well. pins can be crimped with a std open barrel crimper. Pins are available from 22G down to 10G and they all fit into the same housings. housings are available in 2 pin up to 14 pin... I bought thru Mouser enought to replace every connector on the car for about $150:

This is the back (wire entrance) side of the 10 pin. The blue parts are littel silicone seals that seal against the wire insulation:

Here it is mated, they lock and have an extra little piece (the orange piece) that slides across to lock the latch:

 

[65-408]

This wiring is very tedious, too many terminations... Anyways, I got pretty much everything buttoned up in the dash (gauge cluster, and switches). Still have to put connectors on for the column, wiper motor, and rally pac, finish the engine bay, and the tail/backup lights...

Here is the instrument cluster 10 pin connector:

 

[B67FSTB]

You're doing a great job with the electrical stuff !!
Wish I lived closer to you , so I could help you with that.I love wiring stuff !!!!

 

[65-408]

Bit the bullet and bought my $25 piece of plastic off ebay to fill the radio hole... It is a nice part, fits perfect, will look good once everything is painted to match:

 

[65-408]

Getting there, 10 pin connectors for the column and rally pac and a 6 pin for the wiper motor:

 

[65-408]

Finally! Wiring is done and tested... That took a long time, but I like how it came out. Just need to add some split loom, sill do that when I pull it out. Only had a few terminations mixed up and they were easy to find and fix. I didn't realize that originally the front park lights go out when the head lights are on, so I changed the harness to feed off the rear park light feed so that they stay on with the head lights. Engine compartment is nice and clean, will weld up all the unused holes once I disassemble for paint.

Next, I am going to try bending up a Shelby style roll bar following this link:

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/interio ... llbar.html

I am going to try and use a Harbor Freight Pipe bender for the task:

Supposedly, a pipe bender is, as the name implies, for bending pipe and will kink tubing. But I found this you tube video that shows it bending tubing nicely if well packed with sand:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWT3N3m4bE4

I have 1.75"x1/8" wall ERW tubing. The 1 1/4" pipe die is for 1.66" OD pipe, so I opened it up a little with the die grinder and polished with a sanding roll:

 

[Fast68back]

That should be interesting!

 

[janschutz]

I will be watching this also. I have that pipe bender already but have not used it.

 

[Anonymous]

I have that pipe bender, used it to massage the X pipe when I made the exhaust.

 

[70_Fastback]

I remember when reading about the sand that you are supposed to seal the ends. Did you see that as well?