69/70 clutch pedal pad...is this normal???

[buening]

I got my clutch pedal pad and finally the correct stainless trim. I pulled the pad out of the box and something didn't look right. There is a lip around the sides and bottom of the pad, and its obvious after the stainless trim is installed. It doesn't really look like a mold issue, as it has a nice clean line. Look at the pics and let me know if yours is like this. The lip isn't there on the top because the stainless trim bends around the back of the pad like it does on the brake pedal. The bottom of the pad has two slots and the trim fingers sit in those.

I'm planning on cutting this excess off with a razor knife so that it looks like it should after the trim is installed, but I'd like to make sure it isn't supposed to look like this.

 

[Sluggo]

That's what mine looks like. NPD sent me the wrong trim as well. I have not re-ordered the correct one yet.

I'll trim mine if it's going to look like that.

 

[buening]

Yeah NPD had a labeling issue with their clutch pedal stainless trim. I assume you got the 65-68 trim like me. I actually ended up with two of them and finally called to have them hand pick the correct one. They are aware of the labeling issue and should be getting it fixed. The 65-68 trim wasn't the greatest quality and was a foreign product, but the correct 69/70 trim is Scott Drake and is impressively nice.

 

[buckeyedemon]

i had a similar thought when i received the replacement rubber pad. so i compared it to the worn original and it had the same lip.

 

[buening]

Thanks! Thats interesting. I can't really see the purpose of the lip, but since the bottom part of the trim doesn't have the tabs that bend around the entire back maybe this pad helps the trim stay in its place?? I may trim it down a bit so its the same size as the clutch pad. It looks kind of goofy sticking out past the trim like that.

 

[buckeyedemon]

i thought i had thrown my original away. i happened to find it, so i thought i would get some pics for you.

my original is torn at the lip that appears to be extra material. if you look closely the way it's built you will notice that trimming that "excess" will leave the rubber very thin in those slots.

 

[Sluggo]

They must have done that to keep the trim from cutting/tearing the carpet when you mash it to the floor.

 

[buening]

Both of those ideas make sense.

On a similar topic, does anyone have a picture of the clutch pedal, brake pedal, and gas pedal installed? I still need to bleed my brakes, but my brake pedal is about the same height as the gas pedal. The clutch pedal I have adjusted to the bumpstop and it seems WAY too high. The brake system is the factory PDB with the stock booster and correct 70 power brake pedal. The brake pedal may rise a bit when bled but not that much.

 

[gsxrken]

b- my clutch pedal is about 5" from the underside of the pedal to the floor, measuring as if I had a carpenters square on the face of the pedal.
I am in the process of adjusting my manual brake pedal to the same height with a adjustable pushrod rig. I'll have to play with this height to see how it works with my new lokar throttle pedal assembly for heel and toe downshifting.

Let me add right here that pedal assembly work blows. Seat out, steering wheel off, shoes off so I don't clobber the rear passenger area as I thrash around... me getting out from under there and slowly straightening up and working the kinks in my neck and back out probably looks like a comedy bit.

 

[buening]

Hmm, sounds like yours is more of what I expected. Below are pics of my measured heights as well as a pic to show the two pedals. I'm getting a 6" measured from the bottom edge of the clutch pedal to the rubber of the carpet, whereas I'm getting 4.25" for the brake pedal to the rubber of the carpet. Thats almost 2" pedal height differential, which I think is excessive. Since my ModernDriveline clutch linkage is adjustable, I can adjust the height of the clutch pedal down. I have it adjusted so that the clutch pedal is all the way up against the factory bumper....which should be how it came from the factory according to my knowledge. This is weird... :sad

 

[Sluggo]

You need to adjust your pedal so that you do not over stroke your master cylinder. If your pedal is that high you will have a pretty long stroke. Not sure which master you are running, but most wilwoods stroke less than 1 1/4 inch. If you overstoke it once, it's :fbomb ed.

It will smash the return spring inside the cylinder and push the piston past the inlet, allowing fluid to leak inside the car. Don't ask how I know this :beat

 

[buening]

Yeah overstroking the bearing will definitely blow the seals, and is something I've been worried about doing. The Moderndriveline instructions say to adjust the clutch pedal up so it hits the bump stop, then press the pedal down to see if the M/C bottoms out before the pedal hits the floor. Wouldn't the pedal stop once you reach the end of the M/C travel, or does it allow you to overstroke it without resistance (not using foot of course)? The pedal goes all the way to the floor easily and I haven't tried bleeding anything yet.

The M/C is the Wilwood 0.625 bore shown here: http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx?minorname=Compact%20Master%20Cylinder

In the diagram it shows a 1.4" stroke. I guess I'll have to crawl under the dash and measure the stroke of the M/C during full pedal travel. With the lever system I think it reduces the overall throw of the M/C, but I haven't had my coffee yet to be able to think clearly yet. I'd love to lower the clutch pedal, but depending on the resulting M/C stroke I may not have enough stroke to fully disengage the clutch. That'll be something I have to check once the system if fully bled.

I'll check it this evening and see what stroke I come up with in its current state.

Sluggo is your pedal heights that much different, and do you have your clutch set up so it rests against the pedal stop bumper?

 

[buening]

Well I checked things over lunch. I picked the base plate of the lever arm system as my base point and measured from that to the end of the M/C pushrod clevis at both the pedal in the up position at the bumpstop as well as when the pedal is pressed to the floor. I measured 3.33" in the up position and 2.15" with the pedal to the floor, so I'm getting 1.18" of stroke (under the 1.4" stroke max). I adjusted the linkage so that I got a 5" pedal height like Kens, and measured 3.23" in the up position and 2.35" pedal to the floor, resulting in 0.92" stroke. I think I'll check with ModernDriveline to see how the design of this system goes in relation to M/C stroke.

 

[buening]

MD says that I can't reduce the pedal travel, so I'm stuck with this. The only way around it would be for me to design my own lever arm...which could very well be done at a later date. For now I'm gonna get this car up and running!

 

[Sluggo]

Mine does not rest on the upper stop. I actually had to add a stop in the depressed position to stop the stroke. The pedals are pretty close to even. I think the clutch pedal is about 1/2 inch higher than the brake.

No decent pics of both pedals in the car.