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anyone running cable clutch on 67/8 mustang

I run the mustang steve cable clutch with dougs headers. They are a little bit expensive but man they are super nice headers. They get close to one tube but I made a little bracket that pushes about 1/8 inch away. I have had it like this for about a year.
 
I had one on mine at one time, but when I tore the car down I decided to change to hydraulic. I HAD the Ron Morris kit on there with JBA shorties. Everything fit, I just didnt like the fact that the cable ran damn near all the way to the radiator support then turned down to run back to the trans. The mustang steve kit uses a late model cable (readily available) where the RM one is custom and costs more.....
 
I also run the mustang steve cable setup.

I have altered my left header so the cable run right into the opening tap on the trans.

I have not tested it yet so i can't say how it works.

Because i am on a budget i had to altered the headers and choose for the cable setup.

Otherwise i would choose for the hydraulic setup .
 
i checked out the mustang steve setup but they didn't have any pics on the routing of the cable.
it sounds like it also runs up front quite a ways, then comes back to the bellhousing.
anybody got any pics?
 
In my '66 with shock towers removed, ut it should give you an idea of the cable length/routing....

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nice looking engine bay btw!
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That was fresh paint just after/during engine installation. Trust me, it ain't that pretty anymore. Painting the engine compartment white was one of the dumbest ideas I've had!
 
There's alot of disgruntled people in the Mustang Steve forums about problems with his cables.
Trying to sort it out but seems that a main issue is the length of the 87-93 adjustable cable being too short.
Apparently there's a 96+ adjustable version that may be better.
 
the length of the 87-93 adjustable cable being too short
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With my "missing" shock towers, the clutch cable length or cable to header clearance isn't an issue, but for those with shock towers I can clearly see where having the cable a little longer would definitely help to route the cable around the shock tower and away from the headers.
 
Don't know if anybody's seen this, but it's a really ingenious way to use a hydraulic clutch where the master cylinder can't be used in the engine compartment due to the use of a brake booster. It goes under the dash.

1965 Mustang underdash hydraulic master cylinder

It's designed by a guy in the Houston area that owns Rosehill Performance.
He's not marketing it yet.
 
Hmm.... very interesting.

I'm curious where the slave ends up being situated under the dash? It was difficult to determine from the video as the angle was wrong in relation to the pedal hangar in order to make a determination. It looks like it will "almost" be out of sight and completely tucked up under the dash, but it's hard to tell as the video doesn't show the top of the master cylinder when viewed from the side.

Very good idea though!
 
i guess that's why i like working on cars so much....not the "plug n play" stuff, but the challenge of figuring a new way to skin the cat.
in Glen's system, the reservoir for the master cylinder can literally be anywhere. What you see here is just the cylinder itself.
 
in Glen's system, the reservoir for the master cylinder can literally be anywhere. What you see here is just the cylinder itself.
Click to expand...

Remote reservoirs are yesterdays news. There's one in my sons '68 with the JMC kit.

Mounting the master under the dash though is something different.....
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Remote reservoirs are yesterdays news. There's one in my sons '68 with the JMC kit.

Mounting the master under the dash though is something different.....
Click to expand...

Sure, the remote reservoir simply makes this underdash system possible.
 
I installed a Mustang Steve cable sys. a few hundred miles ago on my 66 and the operation is smooth. My cable from M.S. runs down through the rear depression on the shock tower just forward of the rear bolt for the upper arm. I added a small tab off the bolt with a thin jam nut. The tab keeps the cable tucked in against the shock tower. I am using repo. HIPO cast iron manifolds which probably clear better. My only concern is having to adjust the pedal several times already. I installed a Ford Racing cobra clutch, maybe it is just wearing in!! It's ease to adjust with the optional knurled knob. I also covered the cable with a woven heat shield tube.
 
I used the modern driveline kit in my car. It went together well, but the cable seems to be pretty long. It routes all the way to the front of the shock tower then back down to the bell housing. I am not crazy about the bracket attachment to the clutch pedal as it seems like it might work itself loose. Its something I will have to pay attention to. It operates very smoothly, though I have not had it out on the road yet. Just up and down the driveway (about 150 feet). The Mustang Steve quadrant looks like a better setup to me.
 
I'd bet the horror stories about bleeding the hydraulic clutch is a deterrent to a number of folks. I had the shop that did my exhaust bleed mine while they had it.
 
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