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Discussion in 'Electrical Board' started by Mach1Mark, Apr 16, 2017.
similar to this? I will gladly pay shipping each way.
Dude...buy it. That's one tool you will use again. Here's a less expensive alternative that looks like it has the necessary dies.
Thanks, that's a nice one. I don't have access to the ones at work anymore so I just picked one up, and with Prime its free shipping!
And since I went looking to try and find a lower cost tool for you Mark in my search I ran across this
And now I own one. It's already at the house so I will be trying it out soon. I have one last cable end to do (at the starter) and this will allow me to cut it shorter and more to the required length. I will test it out on a sample piece first but I expect it to be better than the impact style tool I had used previously.
I like the 'impact' style . . . more skill needed to hold the cable, the punch and the hammer. I used this method when I made my #1 welding wire positive cable from the trunk to the solenoid when I converted my coupe to racing duty. I kept the cable when I stripped the body five years ago . . . never know when youre gonna need it to build a race car.
I used to use the impact style all the time at work to make custom cables, particularly for farm guys. It does take a bit more skill, and it scares the crap out of the guys that have never seen it done when you start pounding on the thing with a hammer
Make sure you heat shrink the ends!
And solder. Always solder. Just take care not to overdue it and have it wick up into the cable beyond the lug. That's what makes those stiff cables that you have to force to bend (break internally). I drill a small hole in the lug barrel very near the ring into which I let the solder melt and flow into the lug. This way I can prevent it from going too far up the cable. Do this and seal it up with QUALITY heat shrink tubing and you'll have a cable that will last as long as the car.