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Anyone willing to loan me a wire crimping tool

Discussion in 'Electrical Board' started by Mach1Mark, Apr 16, 2017.

  1. Mach1Mark

    Mach1Mark Ramrod extraordinaire Donator

  2. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

  3. Mach1 Driver

    Mach1 Driver Active Member

    Thanks, that's a nice one. I don't have access to the ones at work anymore so I just picked one up, and with Prime its free shipping!
     
  4. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    And since I went looking to try and find a lower cost tool for you Mark in my search I ran across this

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KS5DY14/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    And now I own one. It's already at the house so I will be trying it out soon. I have one last cable end to do (at the starter) and this will allow me to cut it shorter and more to the required length. I will test it out on a sample piece first but I expect it to be better than the impact style tool I had used previously.
     
    Grabber70Mach and RapidRabbit like this.
  5. Mach1Mark

    Mach1Mark Ramrod extraordinaire Donator

    I like the 'impact' style . . . more skill needed to hold the cable, the punch and the hammer. I used this method when I made my #1 welding wire positive cable from the trunk to the solenoid when I converted my coupe to racing duty. I kept the cable when I stripped the body five years ago . . . never know when youre gonna need it to build a race car.
     
  6. Starfury

    Starfury Active Member

    I used to use the impact style all the time at work to make custom cables, particularly for farm guys. It does take a bit more skill, and it scares the crap out of the guys that have never seen it done when you start pounding on the thing with a hammer;)

    Make sure you heat shrink the ends!
     
    Mach1Mark likes this.
  7. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    And solder. Always solder. Just take care not to overdue it and have it wick up into the cable beyond the lug. That's what makes those stiff cables that you have to force to bend (break internally). I drill a small hole in the lug barrel very near the ring into which I let the solder melt and flow into the lug. This way I can prevent it from going too far up the cable. Do this and seal it up with QUALITY heat shrink tubing and you'll have a cable that will last as long as the car.
     
    Mach1 Driver likes this.

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