Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
Are the stock AT shifters for 70 mustangs all the same? I know they appear the same on the top side, but is the lever on the bottom different between a C4, C6, FMX?
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AT shifters
- Thread starter Grabber70Mach
- Start date
2ndgen
Member
Hmm... since no one else has taken a swing....
I can not tell you with certainty for the 70, but on the 69 they are the same, and these two years share a lot. There is a difference in configuration in that the 69 FMX shifter has a neutral safety switch added to the mechanism, but the shifter itself is identical.
Good luck,
-Rory
I can not tell you with certainty for the 70, but on the 69 they are the same, and these two years share a lot. There is a difference in configuration in that the 69 FMX shifter has a neutral safety switch added to the mechanism, but the shifter itself is identical.
Good luck,
-Rory
Yeah they are all identical AFAIK. The FMX car did have the neutral safety switch but IIRC it used the same holes as another part of the shifter (selector dial or the selector gear). What is different are the shifter arms that connect the shifter lever on the trans to the shifter itself. Those varied by the different transmissions.
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
Thanks I just wondered if they were my car had a C-6, I'm in the process of puyying an AOD in and had to bend the shifter rod that I purchased for the conversion. Rory how easy was the TV adjustment to make, I have thelokar cable and bracket, also the bracket for the eldebrock carb. Is there anything that I am missing? Thanks
2ndgen
Member
A couple comments...
If you use the neutral safety switch of a FMX shifter like I did (I know you are using a C-6 shifter) or if you bypass the neutral safety switch of the AOD, double check that your shifter linkage is adjusted properly and that the parking sprag engages when you shift into park. The conversion linkage is pretty good but I had to tweak mine too (I actually had to cut more threads into the rod so I could adjust it properly). I nearly had a disater with misadjusted linkage (e.g. the shifter was in park but the transmission was in reverse - and the FMX neutral safety switch went by the shifter position and let the car start).
With respect to the TV cable adjustment, there really is only one right way to do it: you should hook up a pressure gauge to the test port. I hate the "Bad shoe" video which says just make sure the play at idle is to spec using the little spacer like the factory did... It worked on the assembly line because they had quality control over the suppliers and factory specified tolerances. In a retrofit custom application, there are just too many variables to be certain without using a pressure gauge.
That said, the vast majority of people get away with just using the edelbrock geometry adjuster on the throttle mechanism and adjusting the lokar cable so that the TV lever is fully actuated at full throttle and that there is only slight slack with the throttle closed. I did this very procedure and verified the line pressure; it was fine on my car. That is no guarantee that this method of adjustment will work the same for any other custom application, and if you are unlucky you can burn up an AOD in just a few miles.
Good luck,
-Rory
If you use the neutral safety switch of a FMX shifter like I did (I know you are using a C-6 shifter) or if you bypass the neutral safety switch of the AOD, double check that your shifter linkage is adjusted properly and that the parking sprag engages when you shift into park. The conversion linkage is pretty good but I had to tweak mine too (I actually had to cut more threads into the rod so I could adjust it properly). I nearly had a disater with misadjusted linkage (e.g. the shifter was in park but the transmission was in reverse - and the FMX neutral safety switch went by the shifter position and let the car start).
With respect to the TV cable adjustment, there really is only one right way to do it: you should hook up a pressure gauge to the test port. I hate the "Bad shoe" video which says just make sure the play at idle is to spec using the little spacer like the factory did... It worked on the assembly line because they had quality control over the suppliers and factory specified tolerances. In a retrofit custom application, there are just too many variables to be certain without using a pressure gauge.
That said, the vast majority of people get away with just using the edelbrock geometry adjuster on the throttle mechanism and adjusting the lokar cable so that the TV lever is fully actuated at full throttle and that there is only slight slack with the throttle closed. I did this very procedure and verified the line pressure; it was fine on my car. That is no guarantee that this method of adjustment will work the same for any other custom application, and if you are unlucky you can burn up an AOD in just a few miles.
Good luck,
-Rory