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automatic to manual

P

pjbbx

New Member
Hi everybody,
I bought my Mustang 66 Coupe from AzPete a few years ago. It had been done up by the late John, in California. Great car. I drive it quite a lot. No major issues, always worked for me.
If i could change anything to this car it would be the automatic box and switch to a manual one. I was saying to Pete that it is a little too automatic for me. Second gear kicks in ok, third is good too but overdrive kicks in late (50 M/h). And you really miss a gear between the 3rd and the overdrive. Which also means that on hilly country roads, overdrive gets deactivated frequently and 3rd gear comes in abruptly. I find that the engine is often too high in the rpm.
So i was thinking of switching to a t5 or something.
Now, I understand the concept but i am not so sure it will be a great benefit or neither I will be able to proceed with the installation myself.
What would you guys think of a switch to manual, what sort of box should i think getting and most important, would somebody in Ky have the experience of a job like that...?
I thank you in advance for your help
all the best
pb
 
A switch to a manual would be most easily done with a T5. Very straight forward and practically just bolts in like it belongs there. Shifter pops up through the existing hole. Doesn't really get much easier in the world of swaps.
You need to get the manual pedal set-up, a cross member to support the T5 and a set-up to actuate the clutch. Most go with a hydraulic set-up of some kind. That's about it.
We've got more than a couple guys here in that general vicinity.
 
There are two other ways to move your shift point around without changing the transmission: you can change your rear end with a steeper (lower numerical) gear, which can gain you gas mileage on the highway (but slow down your drag strip times); you can also change your rear tire diameters (larger diameter moves shift speed to higher absolute speed). Both involve changing the speedometer gear.

Each of these are much cheaper than replacing the transmission, but will not address the harshness of the 3rd to overdrive shift.
 
John and I talked quite a bit about the tko and t5 I have in both my cars. He liked the tko 600 in my 65 best. He also really liked the hydraulic clutch in both cars.

That being said, I would go with the tko myself partly due to my experience with both and the gearing in each trans it different. I also think the power in that small block is enough to warrant the stronger unit. Yes I know you can buy a T5 that is very strong. However until you have driven both like you stole them, like I have you will never really know the difference.

The switch is not hard. There are lots of kits now for the swap. No you don't have to hack your car up and no the angle change will not hurt you engine setup.

Do a search for the different kits and find the one you like and get to wrenching.

Once you have the parts and a free weekend you can do the swap and have fun with it on Monday. You will like the drivability of the manual gearbox!

Mel

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
 
What ratio does the rearend has ?
IMO an AOD isn't a bad choice at all.
Maybe you have to look for a solution for your AOD.
A convertion from auto to man isn't cheaper as to solving your auto problem.
just my opinion.
 
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Thank you all for your help on this. I checked out moderndriveline.com, surely it ain't cheap to take that on. Is it reasonable to expect at least $3500 in parts? It looks like a 5K project all together. I have to admit that i would never have thought about doing that to any car because i think it is easier to sell the automatic and buy a manual but i really like this car and i feel very lucky (and privileged) to drive it. It always works for me, never lets me down. So i'll keep it and my boy will drive one day.
Now, as some of you mentioned, it is also possible to try find a solution for my AOD...
Since i live in Kentucky, do you know of any decent mechanic or transmission guru that could help me get in the right direction with this.
To cmayna, this is not a recent pic but the car has not changed one bit. In fact i am going to put another picture from the day i drove the car up from Panama City (with AzPete plates...) to kentucky. I had it re painted last year (exact same color), changed the steering wheel to a wooden Lecarra (nice) and removed the long headers to get a better road clearance. That's about it. It's my daily driver.
pb
 

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You can convert to a T5 for a lot less than $3500. I got all my stuff together by shopping around, finding a good deal on a used T5 and going through it myself. The short list of what you would need is as follows;

Trans ($400-700)
Bellhousing ($75)
Crossmember ($100)
Flywheel ($150)
Clutch ($250)
Pedal Ass'y ($150)
Clutch actuator...cable or hydraulic (MDL hydraulic kit $235)
slave or hyd throwout bearing ($225-325 at MDL)

I got all the above except for the MDL stuff for under $900. The prices I post are just the average or, in the case of MDL, their list costs. You could find other options for much less or even make your own. In my case, I will be in and done for less than $1500, hardware and lines included. You can find rebuilt WC T5 transmissions for around $700. No need to buy new. Waste of money.

And yes, you can likely do something with an automatic for less if you just do a valve body to improve shift points, etc. But it's still an automatic. Real men shift their own gears.:cool:
 
Glad the car is still doing good for you. As far as the tranny work, like our emails discussed, it might be hard finding a good shop. Look into the local car clubs of any brand. Ask around for who they trust to do the work you want accomplished. Shops that lean towards the racing format, but not all out track only cars should be able to do what you need, either manual or auto. I would sty away from the normal chain rebuild shops. I would not give up on the conversion until you exhaust the local car club knowledge.

I am pretty sure the transmission has a valve body/shift kit in it as it stands. It was set up for spirited driving and mpg was not a thought from what John told me when I bought it. The shifting is/was right on the money for that type driving and it did hold third a bit longer. The auto should need no rebuilding, just a valve body change to vary the pressure from what it is now.
 
That car was John's daily driver. I have the hood with the Shelby scoop on it that came off that car. I think Kat has his gauge cluster.

That car was a commuter for John. I think he drove 20-30 miles one way daily in it.

I called him once to ask a question about something and he was at work. He complained about how hot it was without AC. I think Pete solved that issue.

As for your swap, if you look around you can find everything you need for a lot less used and get to the same end game.

For your auto there is the ever expensive gearvendor.

Mel

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
 
I'm in Lexington. I can travel obviously... And change my gears when i choose it. That's the beauty about manual, you can drive spirited, less spirited, more spirited, spiritual even, bluesy, soul... Thank you all for your help
 
I agree with Horseplay, you can save by finding a lot locally. I'm also an advocate for the hydraulic setup but I've been on tight budgets too.

I used to hit up the local drag race guys that swapped their T5s for autos. Place "wanted" ads on craigslist and local car forums (Stangbangerz comes to mind for Lexington but most members are out of Cincinnatti/Covington). Typically you can find a used T5 with bell and clutch fork all together. I don't mind reusing a pressure plate. I often find complete clutch kits slightly used for half the new price. Often the seller is swapping for a higher rated clutch. I like to run a new clutch dish, throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Flywheel, if you need a 28oz and plan to use the newer diaphram style pressure plate, you can use a flywheel for a 5.8L as the late model 351w stayed 28oz. You will need a clutch pedal. If you want to save a little you can source any similar pedal and weld it to the automatic brake pedal pivot pin. I've done this with a $20 scrap yard pedal. If you're going to run a cable setup, you'll need a clutch quadrant. When late model folks buy new cables they often get the cable/quadrant/firewall adjuster package. Someone local will have a spare aluminum quadrant sitting in their garage. With some creative welding you can get one to bolt up to a classic pedal.
Here's an examples, not my cars but I've done this.
8459621179_739999454a.jpg

1256d1192843115-finally-starting-v8-swap-quadrant.jpg


There's also the Mustang Steve clutch quadrant kit.

If you do end up sourcing a clutch pedal but not a MT brake pedal, you can trim a little of the left side of the AT brake pedal pad to shorten it.

Did a T5 swap in my old 63 Falcon Wagon, used a 65 Mustang clutch pedal, progressive brake pedal cuts.
22030560010_large.jpg


If you already have an AOD then I'm pretty sure the crossmember you have will work. Also, I think the AOD is the same or very similar length as the T5 so might not require being shortened.
 
I just would like to update this thread. My mechanic adjusted the ''cable'' so that the overdrive would kick in earlier, at 46-47 mph to be precise. It was quick and easy. I don't have the details yet cause i still have to see him. I just drove the car for a few days now and it makes a huge difference. No more staying in high rpm for miles in town or in small roads. A lot of daily driving is done at around 45... And anyway if you need more power to pass somebody or something you just have to leave the foot on the gas and the car stays on the 3rd gear. So a win-win situation all around. I'm pretty happy i had that done. Next step would be to put on a manual gearbox but i did not feel i could take on that job. Got to know your limits...
 
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