Dne'
Well-Known Member
'67 mustang/289,no tach, standard alternator and apron mounted voltage reg..
I'm playing with my electrical right now. Using battery charger right now for testing.
1) yesterday I plugged my Instrument cluster/dash in. Does it ground through the wiring harness or does it ground via mounting screws? I found that when I would touch my test light to the instrument cluster housing the dash lights would come on. But If I grounded the housing with a ground wire, it would spark where I touched it on the cluster housing. I took the instrument assembly to the kitchen table, and using my ohm meter, I found that the constant voltage unit was not quite right.
* testing the Constant voltage unit(CVU): placing one lead onto the cluster housing(-), then one lead to a prong where the hot wire may go, showed completion(zero out)(I don't know the term). with the CVU unpluged(both wires off), and one lead to the housing of the CVu itself and then a lead to a unplugged terminal, it zero'd out. I connected a battery charger to it(black to the CVU housing, and Red to one terminal) the measured the voltage on the outgoing terminal(about 11.5 volts), then it started working, it became a little warm. I put it back into the car, plugged it in, now it doesn't spark when I ground the housing, but the housing still has to be grounded to work.(I hope I made some sense!).
2)Since the motor will be installed soon(I've been saying this for a month!). I was wanting to see if the starter solenoid(S) would click, like when turning the key to start position. The S makes a small click with the key turned to "on" and the left push on connector on the S has voltage. But when turned all the way, the large terminal that would feed the starter doesn't light up, or the S doesn't make the clunk sound. Like when using a starter button to turn the motor over, or in this case using a screwdriver to "bump" the would be motor over, it will engage the S then. I did have my husband turn the key to Start, but no current was at the Right push on connector on the S. But I was thinking~ does the neutral safety switch have to be in the circuit for the S to kick in? In that case, it is not in the circuitry yet. It's still on the transmisson.
3)I haven't converted my Flaming river turn signal switch(TSW) to the main harness yet.( :cry). In testing my main driving lights, the plugs in front of the radiator support are Hot(high beam and low beam), but I have no parking lights in front nor in the rear of the car. Does the TSW have to be connected for parking lights? My dome light works, and one wire in the trunk is hot(maybe the license plate light?)it goes off and on with the headlight switch.
4) Ignition switch: just to the side of the ignition switch is a spade male terminal made onto the ignition switch. It's not hot at any time, and it's not found to be doing anything in the schematic. what is that for?
I know I was told to plug everything in, then check it, but this seemed like a logical approach. I wish I had labled all the wires before I installed the main wiring harness. I'm tempted to pull it all back out cause there are little piglet wires(3 or 4) that are hot but I don't know where they go. I will have Classic AC, so my existing AC wiring is to be ignored.
I'm sorry if I'm not communicating to an expert level in electronics. I may see, if I fail at getting everything working correctly, I may could get Bruce from Surefire Restorations over here for a price. This part of the restoration is more nerve racking than anything so far, and for some reason it looks like it should be relatively easy! :doh I have so many questions, and my shop manual is helping tremendously, but but but! lol
I'm playing with my electrical right now. Using battery charger right now for testing.
1) yesterday I plugged my Instrument cluster/dash in. Does it ground through the wiring harness or does it ground via mounting screws? I found that when I would touch my test light to the instrument cluster housing the dash lights would come on. But If I grounded the housing with a ground wire, it would spark where I touched it on the cluster housing. I took the instrument assembly to the kitchen table, and using my ohm meter, I found that the constant voltage unit was not quite right.
* testing the Constant voltage unit(CVU): placing one lead onto the cluster housing(-), then one lead to a prong where the hot wire may go, showed completion(zero out)(I don't know the term). with the CVU unpluged(both wires off), and one lead to the housing of the CVu itself and then a lead to a unplugged terminal, it zero'd out. I connected a battery charger to it(black to the CVU housing, and Red to one terminal) the measured the voltage on the outgoing terminal(about 11.5 volts), then it started working, it became a little warm. I put it back into the car, plugged it in, now it doesn't spark when I ground the housing, but the housing still has to be grounded to work.(I hope I made some sense!).
2)Since the motor will be installed soon(I've been saying this for a month!). I was wanting to see if the starter solenoid(S) would click, like when turning the key to start position. The S makes a small click with the key turned to "on" and the left push on connector on the S has voltage. But when turned all the way, the large terminal that would feed the starter doesn't light up, or the S doesn't make the clunk sound. Like when using a starter button to turn the motor over, or in this case using a screwdriver to "bump" the would be motor over, it will engage the S then. I did have my husband turn the key to Start, but no current was at the Right push on connector on the S. But I was thinking~ does the neutral safety switch have to be in the circuit for the S to kick in? In that case, it is not in the circuitry yet. It's still on the transmisson.
3)I haven't converted my Flaming river turn signal switch(TSW) to the main harness yet.( :cry). In testing my main driving lights, the plugs in front of the radiator support are Hot(high beam and low beam), but I have no parking lights in front nor in the rear of the car. Does the TSW have to be connected for parking lights? My dome light works, and one wire in the trunk is hot(maybe the license plate light?)it goes off and on with the headlight switch.
4) Ignition switch: just to the side of the ignition switch is a spade male terminal made onto the ignition switch. It's not hot at any time, and it's not found to be doing anything in the schematic. what is that for?
I know I was told to plug everything in, then check it, but this seemed like a logical approach. I wish I had labled all the wires before I installed the main wiring harness. I'm tempted to pull it all back out cause there are little piglet wires(3 or 4) that are hot but I don't know where they go. I will have Classic AC, so my existing AC wiring is to be ignored.
I'm sorry if I'm not communicating to an expert level in electronics. I may see, if I fail at getting everything working correctly, I may could get Bruce from Surefire Restorations over here for a price. This part of the restoration is more nerve racking than anything so far, and for some reason it looks like it should be relatively easy! :doh I have so many questions, and my shop manual is helping tremendously, but but but! lol
