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Front end alignment question.

guruatbol

guruatbol

Always on vacation!
I made time to work on Captain America today. I got the carb ready but before I drop the lift I want to put shims in the rear of the upper control arm. I am at 0 degrees caster right now, which doesn't allow for the steering to return when you turn and let go. It is early 67 manual harpoon o magic steering.

There are zero shims now. What size shim should I start with?

Mel

Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk
 
I'd put a 1/8" on the front UCA bolt to start if you don't have adjustable strut rods to pull the LCA forward instead. It's trial and error any way you go to get it right so take a decent swing each time to see where you end up. If you try and sneak your way there with thin little shims it will take a lot longer. If you're at 0 with none and the 1/8" gets you to X you will then have a very good idea of where you want to go if further adjustment is needed. Bear in mind you will likely find what works on one side will not match what you need on the other but take the same approach.

IMHO, more than factory spec is better for driving.
 
Horseplay said:
I'd put a 1/8" on the front UCA bolt to start if you don't have adjustable strut rods to pull the LCA forward instead. It's trial and error any way you go to get it right so take a decent swing each time to see where you end up. If you try and sneak your way there with thin little shims it will take a lot longer. If you're at 0 with none and the 1/8" gets you to X you will then have a very good idea of where you want to go if further adjustment is needed. Bear in mind you will likely find what works on one side will not match what you need on the other but take the same approach.

IMHO, more than factory spec is better for driving.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't I want to put the shims in the rear bolt?

I just want to get it better so I drive it in to town and get it aligned.

Mel

Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk
 
Front bolt. You want to push the top of the spindle to the rear so the centerline running from the top ball joint through the bottom slants to the rear to get negative caster.
 
Depending on how your caster tweaking goes you may need to go back and use the lower are eccentric to get your camber back into decent line too. At least you have that on a 67. The earlier set-up lacked the lower adjustment for camber so you can easily find yourself running in circles with the stock stuff. That's why everyone goes with the adjustable strut rods and if they're smart, John's LCA weld-in adjustable mounting plate kit.
 
In short.
Front bolt , 1/8 shim ( if I did remember correctly. I did it with my 67.)
Try to take one shim only at the end of the trial. The lesser shims , the better it will stay between the shocktower and UCA.
Whatch out that the center of the wheel stays in the center of the wheelwell arch. So the wheel doesn't rubb front or rear front fender.
Caster of 3 degree should be fine. IMHO.


Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
 
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